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5.12c, Sport,  Avg: 2.9 from 45 votes
FA: Tod Anderson (with help from Richard Wright)
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Wall of the '90s
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details


Follow the line of bolts right of Vixen, and make your way up the long slab climb to the huge roof complex above. The slab is relatively mild, and gives good rests. The meat of this route involves a series of large roof sections that lead to a four move crux sequence. Pull this off, avoid the terrible rope drag, and you are on your way to the redpoint.


18 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. There is a significant amount of rope drag on this route if you do not use long draws wisely. Some bolts are not needed, and in particular, two bolts under some two of the roofs should be unclipped after clipping the bolt on the lip to eliminate rope drag, or use a really long sling.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This route is so fun.
[Hide Photo] This route is so fun.
The crux roof. Note draw configuration for reduced rope drag.
[Hide Photo] The crux roof. Note draw configuration for reduced rope drag.
Kevin in the thick of it.
[Hide Photo] Kevin in the thick of it.
Multi-photo of Jesse Ryan sending Y2K. Partner Chris H. took from near TenDigDialing.
[Hide Photo] Multi-photo of Jesse Ryan sending Y2K. Partner Chris H. took from near TenDigDialing.
Liz moving fluidly through the crux roof.
[Hide Photo] Liz moving fluidly through the crux roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Cool exposure going through the roofs, but oi vey - that rope drag is pretty nasty! The face leading to the roofs is reachy but fun (11+ or so). The roof section starts with pleasent jugs hauling, but goes from 0 to 60 in a hurry when you hit the dynamic and crimpy crux! Solid for the grade. Jul 13, 2001
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] For those not capable of leading 12c, you can easily lead this for the 11 bolts to make a very nice 11- and move L. Mar 5, 2002
[Hide Comment] I thought was one of the better routes in the canyon, my biased opinion of course. A long varied pitch, seven separate roofs with about 20' of total overhang, gymnastic moves, 3 stars in my book. As far as rope drag goes, add 6 long slings to your 20 QDs and use them at any point where the rope tends to bend in under the roof (you can clip short where you need to, then unclip leaving the long sling as back pro). Aug 9, 2002
[Hide Comment] Incredible position. Oct 2, 2002
[Hide Comment] Can't say I was as impressed by this climb as other posters. I give it one star since I did not enjoy the climb enough to want to put in work for a redpoint.It was kind of a thrutchy one-move wonder (and a very tough move at that). Even with backcleaning 2 QDs, rope drag got pretty bad near the top... I would recommend using only long draws on the entire roof section leading up to the crux move (as well as the last bolt on the slab). Y2K is certainly more difficult than 10-digit-dialing, but not as nice of a climb. Jul 25, 2005
[Hide Comment] The one move is hard - but is it fun? Bad bolting on the approach slab, killer rope drag, etc won't have me coming back for more. Aug 1, 2005
[Hide Comment] I had nothing to do with the FA on this thing so I am not being biased about this - I did the route and I thought it was a kick. The multiple massive roofs you go through add up to a great pump and killer position.

This rope drag thing is something you boys should be able to figure out.There is a 3 point plan for doing big roofs like this:

1.USE LONG SLINGS under the roof - I believe this concept was implemented by Gunky roof climbers long ago. It works.

2.UNCLIP some of the draws (from rest stances after you have passed them), or

3. SKIP some of the clips through the roof (there are lots of them).

If all that seems too much you can also bring your belayer up to the anchors at the top of the slab and treat the big roof as an independent pitch. I had no problems with rope drag when I did this. The bolting on the slab is completely fine - there are no issues there.

Secret beta on the crux - right heel hook.Shorter folks may have more difficulty.Pretty hard, burly and reachy, might be a sandbag at 12C.

I still say 3 stars, but if you insist on botching up the rope drag issue, you may not like it as much. Aug 2, 2005
[Hide Comment] Yes, multiple massive roofs, but little in the way of a pump factor since its a one-move wonder with good rests before and after the crux. Ignoring the rope drag issue, still 1-star climbing: worth doing, but not worth repeating. Aug 2, 2005
[Hide Comment] I respectfully disagree with the anonymous detractors, but I must admit my wife (also a climber) sometimes accuses me of loving every climb I do. So maybe I am not as discriminating as some.

But I still highly recommend this route. Aug 2, 2005
Nate Weitzel
[Hide Comment] I first climbed this route years ago, but only did it once as I botched the rope management, had heinous rope drag, and then got distracted to do other things. Now I have gone back to this one, and the while the rope management adds to the complexity of the climb, making you actually plan your route a bit, I think it makes for a more interesting day. Overall, I think this line is fantastic, harder than TDD, and Great Escape, with some very fun, pumpy moves through the roof and good exposure. My current favorite on the wall. Jun 24, 2007
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
[Hide Comment] Loved this route. the position is killer, the 4 move crux (V6ish) is aesthetic, tension climbing on crimps and slippery feet, and the final awkward 5.11 move to reach the anchors tops it off. Clip the right bolts and rope drag will not be a problem, I didn't back clean any. Apr 18, 2012
Ethan Davis
Hailey, ID
[Hide Comment] Richard nailed it on his comment. Climb it. Apr 5, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
[Hide Comment] Let's try this: hung July of 2015, the long draws dangling off the roof section are mine.

PUHL-EEZE feel free to clip 'em. Just don't strip 'em.

When I pull 'em, I'll pull this comment. Aug 3, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] If a scrunchy and weird one move wonder is your thing, well then that's your thing. It was kinda - sorta fun in a one move, scrunchy, weird way. Oct 18, 2015
Tane Owens
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Skip the first draw (6 ft off the ground), back-clean the second, extend the last 4 on the slab (I back-cleaned the last one), skip the first anchor, obviously, and extend everything on the roof. It sounds like a "lot of work", but it makes the climb much more enjoyable.

Classic CC 5.12 in my opinion, and not a one-move-wonder... it's more of a 3-move-wonder. Harder than 10-Digit. Nov 2, 2015
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed the steep hero climbing on some funky jugs and crimps. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone that does not like blind reaches and really steep climbing. Nov 16, 2016
Greg Miller
[Hide Comment] This climb is awesome, not sure I'd call it a one move wonder. There is one really hard reach move, but it doesn't totally let up. If you like bouldery, steep climbing, this is a good one.

I found the best slinging was: at the start, there is a belay bolt, then a bolt just above that. Clip the third bolt from the ground as your first bolt.

Clip the anchor with a double length sling (or unclip a normal quickdraw after you clip the bolt above the roof with another double length).

There is an unnecessary bolt (the 2nd one over the roof). Just skip it, and clip the first of 4 (as of 2/19/17) fixed draws. Skip the third fix draw (totally a clean fall) until your on jugs to clip the hidden one on the slab. You will need one QD for the last bolt.

Best to clean on toprope. Feb 20, 2017
two chains
Fucken Zion
[Hide Comment] Miller, you give this a 12a rating, but it took you 4 tries? No one cares about your clipping beta. "As it adds nothing to MP"-DM. Aug 13, 2017
Greg Miller
[Hide Comment] If I thought this was 12a, I would have rated it 12-. Don't worry, grambo, adventurebum, Two Chains, I won't downgrade your routes on Creekside.
#vanlife Aug 14, 2017
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] Great route. It could be a one move wonder but it has more to do with body type than anything else. The crux can be done in one of two ways:

  • right heel hook - works for folks as short as 5'2" and as tall as 6'6" (i.e., me).
  • left knee scum - seems best for folks around 5'10".

Once the crux is sent if your short, it's pretty much over. Taller climbers still have a fight in store as the next three moves the foot work is pretty high. The last few moves to the chains are .11a and not to be sneezed at if you're pumped.

Greg's comments below on which draws to clip are spot on! Aug 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] Clear Creek Canyon, 2nd Edition falsely infers that Richard Wright did the FA of this route. While he helped, Tod Anderson did the FA and Richard never led the route. Jan 12, 2019
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Tod, I’ll switch the orders of the names of the routes you commented on to put your name first for all further editions. I should also point out that on MP on this page your name is spelled Todd, but it should just be one d, Tod. Jan 13, 2019
[Hide Comment] Thanks Kevin, I appreciate you making the updates. No doubt you were given some inaccurate info. There were a bunch of other routes I was in on the FA or maybe even did the FA in CCC, but other than a few distinct cases that I am absolutely certain of, I’m not going to worry about it. Jan 13, 2019