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Routes in The Mission Wall

Behind The Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Billy the Kid S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Challenger S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garrett's Revenge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gneiss Route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ground Control to Gumby One S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's Not You, It's Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride The Snake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocketman S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Three Points of Contact S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wild Child S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: D.Mabe, FFA: P.Hunt
Page Views: 1,784 total, 11/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on May 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

EDIT (for a logical pitch break-down):

P1. Climb Billy, but after the second overlap around mid-way, sneak right to belay at Wild Child's P1 anchors. 11b.

P2. Use the first clip of Wild Child starting P2, then continue the rest of the Billy pitch, but continue up and left, with the first 3 bolts of Gneiss Route up to the Rocketman ledge. 12a.

P3. Climb out the huge Rocketman roof, 8 bolts. There is a brief move of 5.11 around bolt 3, and the crux is pulling over the biggest part of the roof at bolt 7 (5.12c). Belay at airy stance above the roof. 12c.

P4. Cruise past 4 bolts on the Northeast arete to Surette Ledge. 5.7.

Descent: From Surette, rap 55' to the roof lip and 200' to the ground (BIG AIR!).

Protection

12 draws/slings of various lengths. 2 60m ropes for rap.

If linking all of Billy and part of Gneiss Route in one pitch, you will need about 20 draws/slings.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
^Yep that's how it was intended. Jun 2, 2016
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Greg, I'm pretty sure thats what we did when we climbed R.M. That boulder problem on Gneiss Route is funky! Jun 2, 2016
Is it possible to do the first 3 bolts of Gneiss Route and continue into R.M from the anchor at the top of Billy without much of an issue? Jun 2, 2016
Peter Hunt
  5.12c
Peter Hunt  
  5.12c
I was able to free this today. It took me a while to figure out the crux moves, but then I got the redpoint first try. That probably means it's about 12c or d. I definitely recommend this climb. Billy and the bit of Gneiss Route give full value on the approach. The exposure on the crux pitch is spectacular. The main holds seem solid, but especially low on the pitch there was a fair amount of crumbling underfoot, which the belayer can avoid but can be bad news if there are climbers below. As it gets more traffic and cleans up, Rocketman will be a three-star climb. Many thanks to Darren and Matt for conceiving of this line, the great bolting job, and for making it an open project.

Warning beta follows: Darren, you asked about the crux moves so here's my beta. After getting the jug at the lip, I moved my hands to good holds on the diagonal above it. I heel-hooked left on the bump and made a long, hard pull to get my left hand on the best of the holds in the crummy horizontal. I switched the left heel to a toe and then brought the right hand up to a little hold in the horizontal for just a second and then moved to the deep hold. After I got my feet up, I reached up and left to a dish with a little hold in it and it was over. Aug 1, 2004
Is it possible to get across the creek this time of year? Is the Tyrollean in place? I was thinking of checking out the crag this weekend (5/30). Thanks for the info. May 27, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
Big Air is an understatement. 150 feet of dangling 20 feet from the wall! Darren picked the biggest roof on the center of the wall and puched this line right out of it.

The pitch itself is quite fun, but the overall combo of Billy, Gneiss Route, and Rocketman makes for a spectacular outing. You pull out 6 roofs amounting to 20 feet with the toughest for last. A final pitch up off the Surette ledge would be the icing for the hardmen out there.

The crux move is brutal for a non 5.12 climber such as myself, but there is a nice bolt at your chest that a Lucky Pierre can pull right past with a long sling. (I wonder how how I knew that....?) C'est Magnifique! Bonne Chance! May 24, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
At time of writing, the crux pitch has not gone free. I consider it an open project. Good luck, the crux is stinkin tough -- just let me know how you make that final move over the lip. I gave it another go last week and removed my draws (no, they werent stolen...)

Oh yeah, please leave the sling on the last bolt of the first pitch of Billy, trust me, you will appreciate it... May 21, 2004