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Nomad's Cave Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Nomad's Cave

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ali Nomad S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Apex Predator T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Asteroid, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Cave Troll S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Compassion Fatigue S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Express Yourself S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Freaks and Geeks S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Hard Day Mining S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Internet Troll S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Nomadic Drifter S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Pizza on the Roof S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Predator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Predator X S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Roid, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Tommy's Hard Route S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Tommy’s X S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,120 ft	2,170 m
GPS:	39.739, -105.41548 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	35,464 total · 120/month
Shared By:	Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

This cave was once inhabited and now boasts many hard routes, many of which rely on manufactured holds. Despite this, the huge overhanging cave makes for some excellent climbs and a great workout, especially on rainy days. Three 5.12s, and three 5.13s can be found here. Three of the routes use natural holds, and the others utilize some drilled two finger pockets. It is easy to cruise to the cave after warming up on Primo Wall to finish your day with some super hard climbing. Enjoy. The same seasonal information applies as Primo Wall; great in the summer especially if it is rainy, and brutally cold in the winter.

Getting There

Nomad's Cave is near the top of Clear Creek. Park in a large pullout at 11.3 miles on the north side. This is just past tunnel 6. Often there is a tyrolean traverse in place from this pullout or downstream 100 feet, and if in place this makes the approach easy. Just cross the stream and find the trail to the cliff. If there is no tyrolean, then you should drive another 0.5 miles up the canyon to where the creek crosses under the road. Park in a pullout here (south side) and find the rough trail that heads back downstream on the north side. This trail is good most of the way, but one will encounter some exposed scrambling above cliffs and the creek. Take caution. This trail leads you past the Nomad's Cave on the way to the Primo Wall. If you continue on this trail it will take you to the Crystal Tower farther downstream.

L->R:

Gully left of Cave

A. Sleven, V11-12.

Cave

B1. The Roid, 13-, 1p, bolts.

B2. The Asteroid, 13, 1p, bolts & gear.

CB1. Nomadic Drifter, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.

C. Express Yourself, 13, 1p, bolts.

D1C. Hard Day Mining, 13-, 1p, 30, bolts.

D1C. Compassion Fatigue, 14-, 1p, bolts/pads.

D1. Predator, 12, 1p, bolts.

D2. Predator X, 13-, 1p, bolts.

ED1. Cave Troll, 13+, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.

EF. Freaks and Geeks, 14-, 1p, bolts. Variation start to G.

EJ. Pizza on the Roof, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.

FH. Off the Books, V11.

GH. Ali Nomad, 14, 1p, 40', bolts.

H.Tommy's Hard Route, 13+, 1p, bolts.

HG. Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature, 12, 1p, bolts.

I. The Wheel of Fortune, V13, 25'.

J. Kook Slams (Boulder Portion), 14+ or V13, 50'.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nomad's Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 70 ● Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 12 ● The Roid Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 9 ● Tommy's Hard Route Sport
5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a 7 ● Freaks and Geeks Sport