Elevation: 7,120 ft
GPS: 39.739, -105.41548
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,550 total · 127/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Description

This cave was once inhabited and now boasts many hard routes, many of which rely on manufactured holds. Despite this, the huge overhanging cave makes for some excellent climbs and a great workout, especially on rainy days. Three 5.12s, and three 5.13s can be found here. Three of the routes use natural holds, and the others utilize some drilled two finger pockets. It is easy to cruise to the cave after warming up on Primo Wall to finish your day with some super hard climbing. Enjoy. The same seasonal information applies as Primo Wall; great in the summer especially if it is rainy, and brutally cold in the winter.

Getting There

Nomad's Cave is near the top of Clear Creek. Park in a large pullout at 11.3 miles on the north side. This is just past tunnel 6. Often there is a tyrolean traverse in place from this pullout or downstream 100 feet, and if in place this makes the approach easy. Just cross the stream and find the trail to the cliff. If there is no tyrolean, then you should drive another 0.5 miles up the canyon to where the creek crosses under the road. Park in a pullout here (south side) and find the rough trail that heads back downstream on the north side. This trail is good most of the way, but one will encounter some exposed scrambling above cliffs and the creek. Take caution. This trail leads you past the Nomad's Cave on the way to the Primo Wall. If you continue on this trail it will take you to the Crystal Tower farther downstream.

L->R:

Gully left of Cave

A. Sleven, V11-12.

Cave

B1. The Roid, 13-, 1p, bolts.

B2. The Asteroid, 13, 1p, bolts & gear.

CB1. Nomadic Drifter, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.

C. Express Yourself, 13, 1p, bolts.

D1C. Hard Day Mining, 13-, 1p, 30, bolts.

D1C. Compassion Fatigue, 14-, 1p, bolts/pads.

D1. Predator, 12, 1p, bolts.

D2. Predator X, 13-, 1p, bolts.

ED1. Cave Troll, 13+, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.

EF. Freaks and Geeks, 14-, 1p, bolts. Variation start to G.

FH. Off the Books, V11.

GH. Ali Nomad, 14, 1p, 40', bolts.

H.Tommy's Hard Route, 13+, 1p, bolts.

HG. Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature, 12, 1p, bolts.

I. The Wheel of Fortune, V13, 25'.

J. Kook Slams (Boulder Portion), 14+ or V13, 50'.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nomad's Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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