Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This cave was once inhabited and now boasts many hard routes, many of which rely on manufactured holds. Despite this, the huge overhanging cave makes for some excellent climbs and a great workout, especially on rainy days. Three 5.12s, and three 5.13s can be found here. Three of the routes use natural holds, and the others utilize some drilled two finger pockets. It is easy to cruise to the cave after warming up on Primo Wall to finish your day with some super hard climbing. Enjoy. The same seasonal information applies as Primo Wall; great in the summer especially if it is rainy, and brutally cold in the winter.

Getting There

Nomad's Cave is near the top of Clear Creek. Park in a large pullout at 11.3 miles on the north side. This is just past tunnel 6. Often there is a tyrolean traverse in place from this pullout or downstream 100 feet, and if in place this makes the approach easy. Just cross the stream and find the trail to the cliff. If there is no tyrolean, then you should drive another 0.5 miles up the canyon to where the creek crosses under the road. Park in a pullout here (south side) and find the rough trail that heads back downstream on the north side. This trail is good most of the way, but one will encounter some exposed scrambling above cliffs and the creek. Take caution. This trail leads you past the Nomad's Cave on the way to the Primo Wall. If you continue on this trail it will take you to the Crystal Tower farther downstream.

L->R:

Gully left of Cave

A. Sleven, V11-12.

Cave

B. The Roid, 13-, 1p, bolts.
C. Express Yourself, 13, 1p, bolts.
D1C. Hard Day Mining, 13-, 1p, 30, bolts.
D1C. Compassion Fatigue, 14-, 1p, bolts/pads.
D1. Predator, 12, 1p, bolts.
D2. Predator X, 13-, 1p, bolts.
ED1. Cave Troll, 13+, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
EF. Freaks and Geeks, 14-, 1p, bolts. Variation start to G.
FH. Off the Books, V11.
GH. Ali Nomad, 14, 1p, 40', bolts.
H.Unknown at Nomad aka Tommy's Hard Route, 13+, 1p, bolts.
HG. Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature, 12, 1p, bolts.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nomad's Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Jeremy Monahan
Fort Fun, CO
Jeremy Monahan   Fort Fun, CO
This place would be kick ass if it weren't for all the bullshit chipping. I would like to meet the guy who put the routes up and give him a hobby. These routes must have taken way too long to be worth doing. Oh well, some people are just assholes. Jun 9, 2003
Jeremy, the guy's name who chipped the routes is Pete Zoeller. I believe he still lives and climbs in the Boulder area. Go at 'em, boy!! Jun 9, 2003
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
The damage is already done, might as well have fun! Just wanted to post a little "safety third" caution. We were out this past weekend working routes at Primo and Nomad's. The bolts are starting to look a little sketchy on a couple routes. A good example is Express Yourself. Given some comments and outlooks, this one may fall on deaf ears, but... are there any plans/interests in upgrading the gear for the cave? Nov 27, 2017