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Routes in Nomad's Cave

Ali Nomad S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cave Troll S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Compassion Fatigue S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Express Yourself S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Freaks and Geeks S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hard Day Mining S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Off the Books V11 8A
Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator X S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Roid, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sleven V11 8A
Unknown at Nomad aka Tommy's Hard Route S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Wheel of Fortune, The V14 8B+
Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Fry
Page Views: 866 total · 4/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

To the left of Express Yourself is a bizarre crack/flare feature with goldshuts. Tape everything and thrash out this sick, overhanging nightmare. I have yet to redpoint this route and welcome any beta from people who have.

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

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Dr. Chris Lee
  5.12c
Dr. Chris Lee  
  5.12c
Pretty fun, but with kneebars and hand/foot jams, it is on the soft side. Jul 29, 2013
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
Good points, Matt. I felt this route had more to do with technique than power, but I could never connect the dots. Nov 28, 2008
mlloyd
denver
 
mlloyd   denver
 
With good beta this route is 13a, without knee bars and some hand jam skillz it feels like awkward 13c.... It looks like a choss pile but in-fact climbs very smoothly and draws on a climbers memory for beta rather than just grab and pull styles. Still not even close to being a classic but worth the time invested. Nov 27, 2008
Can anyone confirm the grade on this beast. It felt really hard the entire way. I could easily be using horrible beta. Just wondering what other people thought or know.

Also does this thing actually have anchors I haven't tried manteling the corner onto the slab on the rusty bolt but I couldn't see anything from where I was at. Jun 7, 2006
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
Best beta I've seen on this site! Oct 3, 2002
Here is the Beta, Peter! Grovel onto pillar. Layback left, right hand thumb up, left hand thumb up, right hand thumb up, left hand thumb down, right hand thumb up, left hand crimp-jam, right hand thumb up, left hand undercling, right hand layaway, left hand jam, right knee-bar, right hand crimp, left hand pinch, right hand cross over, left hand sloper, right hand sidepull, left hand jug. Done. Or was that thumb down the whole way? Sep 27, 2002

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