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Routes in Nomad's Cave

Ali Nomad S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cave Troll S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Compassion Fatigue S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Express Yourself S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Freaks and Geeks S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hard Day Mining S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Off the Books V11 8A
Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator X S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Roid, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sleven V11 8A
Unknown at Nomad aka Tommy's Hard Route S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Wheel of Fortune, The V14 8B+
Type: Sport
FA: Fred Knapp, 1990
Page Views: 3,306 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fantastic line with some great moves. The route is on the far right side of the cave and starts with the routes bouldery crux. This is followed with some killer moves on slopers and a couple of crimps. The feet are great and the moves are solid. Be ready for a good redpoint crux near the end as the pump factor will get you.

Some history on the naming of the route: Fred Knapp was working this route while Pete Zoller was putting in his line next to it. As Fred finished his route, he asked Pete Zoller what he thought it should be named. Pete said, name it anything but...Pizza Dick!! So, of course, that is the name that stuck. Anyway, that is the story. Three stars for a sweet climb that will challenge you but will leave you smiling when you get it.

Protection

Four bolts / two bolt anchor. Using a stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended.

Photos

mlloyd
denver
 
mlloyd   denver
 
Hale
Boston
 
Hale   Boston
 
So fun! A right kneepad made the crux move feel easier. Aug 21, 2012
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
  5.12c
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
  5.12c
One little boulder problem wonder.... Once you stick the jug at the lip near first draw, it's just fighting the pump... but that little boulder problem feels V6 or V7.... So, stiff 12c in my book. Apr 12, 2011
dan scales
Denver, CO
  5.12b/c
dan scales   Denver, CO
  5.12b/c
Bottom crux is hard, but over quickly, and goes right into a bomb rest. The juice on the this thing really comes at the top. The pump coming out of the open handed ledge is unreal for as short as the climb is. 12b/c Good fun. Mar 16, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.12c
Luke Childers  
  5.12c
Cool line for the mostly drilled cave. The crux is the start. Fun line and although it is short it some how felt longer than it really was. Maybe I was in the Bermuda-Nomad-Triangle-Cave-Hole-Thing. Aug 21, 2009
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
Holy Sh#t!! Fred Knapp is a baller. Need proof? Just check page 148 in the new Clear Creek guide. Here you will see him sandbagging his compadres after pissing on this climb like, 20 years ago! Pizza Dick is the hardest line at Primo area, no question!! May 19, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12c
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12c
Fun route. I think .12c is fair, if you can pull the moves it doesn't seem so bad because it's over quick, but i've watched many strong climbers not be able to link the crux. and of course there's still the rest of the climb to do after that.... regardless, fun climbing and a good in-betweener after the traditional warm ups at primo. Apr 24, 2009
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Definitely not soft for the grade if you are taller than 6'- the start is awkward as hell and has a very powerful foot move on it. For munchkins, it probably wouldn't be too bad. From the jugs, it's not too bad but a little pumpy ... actually making it a great warmup/second route of the day if you just pull through the thrutchy start. Feb 17, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
I did this route on Sunday with friends, and all of us agreed that this was more difficult than 10-Digit Dialing..I read some of the above comments, and I have not been on any of the other routes mentioned above so I would defer to their judgment on the grade..if it is really all that important. The pinch move was baked quite nicely, so maybe we received full value 98 degrees in the sun...maybe we were just stupid for being there in the middle of the summer! I look forward to doing this one again, perhaps in October. Young Doug. Jul 22, 2008
Erik Durgin
  5.12b
Erik Durgin  
  5.12b
Really fun! A little soft for the grade. I thought "Moving Out" was harder, but nonetheless, it's way fun. Apr 17, 2007
Jason Russell
  5.12c
Jason Russell  
  5.12c
Sweet line.... V5 start to a pumpy finish. Jun 8, 2006
11d. Nov 21, 2004
I agree with the original 12b rating I gave it. Nov 19, 2004
Soft 12c. Aug 28, 2004
Yes, AC has the story right. I first called it "It's Not Nice To Fool Mother Nature"- derived from the old margarine commercials, if you're old enough to remember those. Pizza Dick was a name suggested by Christian Griffith as we drove back to boulder after he made the second ascent. It's the name that stuck. Jun 10, 2004
Nate Weitzel  
 
AC: Yes, that makes a bit more sense, and I think that I actually thought that might be the case when I heard the story, but thanks for the clarification. Aug 2, 2001
Yes, this is an excellent _natural_ line, unlike the routes next to it, which were manufactured. Some folks rightly disagreed with the drilling/chiseling ethic. Since this new natural line was right next door to Pete's drilled routes, (as I heard it) Pete said to name it anything except, "Pete's a Dick". The first ascensionist complied, but still got in a good jab by naming his new route "Pizza Dick". May 29, 2001