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Routes in Nomad's Cave Bouldering
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Above the Rest V7-8 7B |
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Bookkeeping, The V16 8C+ |
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Catillac V12-13 8B |
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Escalady V10+ 7C+ |
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Kook Slams (Boulder Portion) V13 8B |
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No Way Home V11-12 8A+ |
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Nomad Cave Left V10 7C+ |
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Nomad Roof V7-8 7B |
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Off the Books V11 8A |
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On the Books V14 8B+ |
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Papa Johnny V8-9 7B+ |
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Reverse Nomad Roof V11- 8A |
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Shame On Knee V13 8B |
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Sleven V11 8A |
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Spidey V14-15 8C PG13 |
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Unknown (Left Of Catillac) V8-9 7B+ |
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Wheel of Fortune, The V13 8B |
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| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Dave Graham |
| Page Views: | 1,139 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Deuto on Jan 2, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Kook Slams climbs out the looker's right side of the Nomad Cave on some high quality stone, if only it didn’t use the footholds of other climbs.
Start at the bottom of the arete (under Pizza Dick) on a nice jug as for Wheel Of Fortune. Make a few moves on that climb before branching right and executing 3-4 very hard moves, involving sweet toehooks and an awesome gaston ear thing. The crux move revolves around being able to hold tension and making a desperate, sick, and insane looking rose move to a good, flat edge. Swing the feet around off the toehooks, and bump your left hand to the jug. Either move left to the jug rails and drop, taking away a V13, or do as the first ascentionist did and clip in to a rope and finish up Pizza Dicks’ 5.13 variation, taking away a hard 5.14.
The real question is who will follow Dave’s vision and climb to the top of the wall, only without a rope???
Start at the bottom of the arete (under Pizza Dick) on a nice jug as for Wheel Of Fortune. Make a few moves on that climb before branching right and executing 3-4 very hard moves, involving sweet toehooks and an awesome gaston ear thing. The crux move revolves around being able to hold tension and making a desperate, sick, and insane looking rose move to a good, flat edge. Swing the feet around off the toehooks, and bump your left hand to the jug. Either move left to the jug rails and drop, taking away a V13, or do as the first ascentionist did and clip in to a rope and finish up Pizza Dicks’ 5.13 variation, taking away a hard 5.14.
The real question is who will follow Dave’s vision and climb to the top of the wall, only without a rope???
Location
This is on the looker's right side of Nomad Cave (if looking into the cave). It climbs the furthest right boulder in the cave, using holds under the roof and toehooks on the arete under Pizza Dick.
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