Left Wire Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 6,800 ft | 2,073 m |
GPS: |
39.73762, -105.32148 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 42,585 total · 218/month | |
Shared By: | Luke Childers on Dec 28, 2008 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
While the reason for developing the area was based around no crowds and no noise, a few must do's exist at this crag.
Must do's:
1) Pervade 5.11a: Better than it first looks and quite pumpy. 7 bolts with LO.
2) Show Nuff 5.10a: Climb up jugs (#0.75-#1 cam helpful down low) traverse right on a slab to the bottom of an arete. Climb up the corner for about 10-15 feet before making the crux move left onto a nice scenic slab to the top. 9 bolts with LO.
3) Addicts 5.10a/b: Classic roof climbing moves with an exiting exit for the top. Follow fun face climbing past for bolts to the underside of a huge roof. Note: Cams #0.75-#2 are needed as well as long slings to avoid rope drag. Climb through the roof system passing only one bolt before reaching the anchors. 5 bolts (cams, long slings) LO.
4) Totality of Facts 5.11d: If you like hard and hairy climbing, this is it for you. Climb up easy slab to a super crux followed by a spooky runout to reach the final bolt and chains. 5 bolts with LO.
Mega Classic:
In this category this crag only hosts one, worth the walk, airy, technical pump fest that I feel is classic. It's called "Night Stick", 5.11b. Begin in a right-facing dihedral to a fantastic arete and corner. Be sure to gain a rest before pulling out onto a steep, right-leaning rail. A few pumpy clips and you are styling. It is my personal favorite. 8 bolts to LO.
When John Morgan and myself (Luke Childers) climbed out the High Wire and the Wall of Justice, we found this fun, little playground which gave way to interesting and pleasant route developing summer. Like I said, it's not the best crag in C.C.C., but it is uncrowded, quiet, beautiful, moderate, and neat. Oh yeah, it's also really nice on colder days.
The best way to reach the Left Wire crag is to head as far left of High Wire crag as you can. Once you see the path heading to the Wall of Justice, continue walking right like you were going to the top of the Wall of Justice. You will come to a point where the High Wire crag runs out and there you will make you final right hand turn past some nice pine trees. The crags left side or east-facing routes will be visible at this point. All that is left is to have fun in the sun. Hope all enjoy.
Getting There
Routes:
Getto Wall
A. Getto Curb, 13-, 1p, bolts.
Facts Wall
B. Indifference, 12+, 1p, bolts.
C. Logical Space, 12-, 1p, TR.
D. Totality of Facts, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Pink Wall
E1. Man on a Wired, 10, 1p, bolts.
E2. Staff, 9, TR, 1p, TR or bolts.
F. Renounce Action, 10, 1p, bolts.
Addict's Wall
G. Addicts, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
H. No Fruit, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
Show Nuff Wall
I1. Trad Intent, 6, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
I2. Manifest, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
J. Show Nuff, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.
Right Side
K. Night Stick, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
L. Bewildered, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
MN. Awful Width, 9+, 1p, TR or gear.
N. Pervade, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.
90 Second Wall
O. Calculation 45, 13, 1p, bolts.
P. Formula 45, 12+/13-, 1p, bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Left Wire
Weather Averages
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