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Routes in Addict's Wall

Addicts T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
No Fruit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Luke Childers
Page Views: 183 total, 2/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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15 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crux is getting into the bottom of the roof and jamming your way right to gain a right-facing corner stem. Then you get a classic roof traverse exit.

Location

This is on Left Wire crag in the middle of the crag. It ascends a slab with 4 bolts to a hanging, right-facing dihedral.

Protection

5 bolts (Cams #0.75-#2) and some long runners to avoid rope drag.

Photos

ALuckyDuck
Denver, CO
  5.10-
ALuckyDuck   Denver, CO
  5.10-
This will probably feel like 10a on the onsight attempt, since setting up into the roof is a reach off crimps and slab for your feet. But on subsequent attempts, if you have crack experience, this will feel pretty soft for 10a. Either way it's cleaned up quite nicely and is a great mixed line! Jul 15, 2016
Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
The anchors are showing age, rusting links will give you pause. Crux felt like solid 10 to me (5'11" 0" ape). Pushed hard off tiny edges with my feet to jam one hand and hung for a second on that until I got my left hand in and brought feet up. Rock quality seemed good all the way. Friable edges seemed gone to me. Feb 7, 2015
At 5'10", this definitely felt like solid 5.10. Fun route. May 19, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10-
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10-
This is a good route that has 2 options at the crux. The up and left version is longer and harder. The right version utilizes some palm smear/underclings that seem improbable, but they get you up to reach the left hand jam at 5'10" +2" ape. Yeah, it is still a bit friable. The anchor could use 2 separate links to thread to calm feathered nerves. Sep 27, 2011
Thanks, man!!! I too feel this is a good line. Worth doing if you're in the mixed route market. Apr 9, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
This is a classic mixed line! I will admit the move getting to the first jam in the roof are a stretch. Also to place the #2 Camalot. Great vision, Luke! Apr 9, 2010
I put this line up many years ago, and I can understand what you are saying about the height issue. I am 6 ft and I felt the line is maybe 10+? Yet, I wonder. It is probably still quite dirty as you say and this never make for an clean ascent. I don't think these lines get much attention. So, how hard will need more traffic and more options before it really settles down. Anyway, I enjoyed putting this line in so many years ago. A cool little roof and stem section. I hope others will stop by and enjoy. Apr 8, 2010
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
 
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
 
I tried this today at the end of the day thinking it wouldn't be too hard. I don't think many people climb this at all since holds were breaking and lots of large flakes could easily be pulled off. After the last bolt to the roof, the reach to the crack is really long and you are on questionable edges that might easily break. I found it very challenging to get a cam in with my reach (granted, I am shorter than most). Once you do get a hand jam in, it is very solid, but all the feet are crap, holds are breaking, and there is lichen on everything.

This felt much harder to me than several of the sport 5.11s in Clear Creak. Perhaps if it were cleaner, it would have felt better, but I would say it isn't comparable to other 10a's in Clear Creek.... Much harder than No Fruit next to it or People's Choice over at High Wire. Maybe a 10a by Eldo standards. Perhaps a hold below the roof broke off, or the people calling it 10a are just tall. Apr 4, 2010