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Routes in Right Side

Awful Width T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bewildered T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Night Stick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pervade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Luke Childers
Page Views: 2,495 total, 23/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crux is heading towards the last few moves towards the anchors. I would say that making last crimp reaches for a (thank you) hand jam in horizontal while fighting off the growing forearm pump.

Location

This is the rightmost route on the lower tier of routes at Leftwire.

Protection

7 bolts to LOs.

Photos

Dakota S.
Denver, CO
  5.11a
Dakota S.   Denver, CO
  5.11a
I think with the various "X'd" off blocks the route becomes harder than 10c but not by much. The finish is a little pumpy for a 10c and would be alleviated if you had the ability to stand on the big "X'd" off block. I would call it 10d/11a. Tough to say. Jul 24, 2017
drewhouser  
 
What a great gem hidden around the corner. If you are using tough holds...keep looking. Great holds are there and ready to be yarded on. If it wasn't for the loose giant blocks every so often and the fact that it is rather short, this would get 4 stars. I agree with 10c if you avoid the bolt line to the right. It has one 11a move if you go straight up. Just because the rest of the climb is easy doesn't mean the last move isn't 11a...c'mon guys, drop your ego and stop arguing over 11a. As Bill Murray once said, "It just doesn't matter." Oct 5, 2014
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10d
There are now 2 or 3 loose blocks on this route.... Possibly new after the September 2013 rain? Either way, still a great route! There's a giant loose block that makes it pretty exciting (for the belayer). Apr 16, 2014
jarthur
Westminster, CO
  5.10b
jarthur   Westminster, CO
  5.10b
No way this is 10d, or 11a going straight up. This route is more pumpy than it is technically difficult. You do ONE crimpy pull in between two huge horizontal cracks with bomber feet by going straight up at the top. Night Stick (to the left) which is considered 11b is a full number grade harder than this route. This route should be the standard for what 5.10b should feel like in this canyon. Aug 27, 2013
John Tex
Estes
  5.10c/d
John Tex   Estes
  5.10c/d
Go direct at the finish! Awesome move to top off a really fun climb. Harder than the other 10s at High Wire IMO but also a different style of climbing. Really fun! May 16, 2013
Dan Holz
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Dan Holz   Denver, CO
  5.10b
Yup, I would say that it goes at a very solid 5.10b. Fun and pumpy! Jun 2, 2011
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
The only way this is 11a or even 10d going direct is if you have no flipping idea how to do a handjam. Screw all the crimps and finger jugs up there right before the anchors, throw in a meaty jam and call off belay, cuz you aren't falling out unless your arm comes out of its socket.

Fun route, I'll definitely be doing it again when I'm back in the area. Apr 22, 2011
Tom R
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Tom R   Denver, CO
  5.10c
I cleaned some of the loose crap in the crack to the left last night. One block was a hundred pounder that I was able to wiggle out with one hand. Yikes! Jul 23, 2010
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c/d
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c/d
Very fun climb. I agree that it comes in at 10c if you go right and 10d if you go direct. Either way it is a surprisingly good climb. This whole area is awesome!

As a side note, a friend of mine took a pendulum fall at about the 4th bolt and swung into the dirty crack left of this route. TWO 35lb ROCKS CAME FLYING DOWN AT ME! Luckily I was able to dodge them, but it was without doubt the scariest thing that has ever happened to me while climbing. Glad I was using an autolocking belay device and the climber called them out. Mar 13, 2010
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.10c/d
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.10c/d
Rolofson's book calls it 5.11a if you go straight up at the last bolt, or 5.10d if you go slightly right. The straight up version certainly looked as if it could brush 5.11 territory. I went right, and felt it was around 5.10c.
Fun climb.
Edit: did the straight up version today, would call that 5.10d. It's not 5.11, but it's harder than 10b. May 2, 2009
popes
Edgewater
  5.10b
popes   Edgewater
  5.10b
You know what Zac Attac? Guideline #1 for comments says don't be a jerk, it says nothing about being bourgeois or being a hard up maniac. So yeah. Apr 23, 2009
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
Only a totally hard-up maniac could think that route is 10b. Downgrading is so bourgeois. Mar 8, 2009
popes
Edgewater
  5.10b
popes   Edgewater
  5.10b
Very good route, current guidebook on Clear Creek notes the grade as 10b, I think that's a more appropriate grade. Feb 28, 2009