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Routes in Addict's Wall

Addicts T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
No Fruit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Luke Childers
Page Views: 155 total, 1/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

There are two cruxes for this one. Pulling over the 1st overhang to a nice technical face to a tricky dismount to the anchors

Location

This is at the Left Wire crag.

Protection

7 bolts (runners) to LOs.

Photos

Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
Pretty much what Justin said.

Pulling the first roof is a nice move, but feels somewhat contrived, because we went out right first before hand traversing back above the bolt to pull the roof.

We both went out right after the second bolt from the end. Going left to the slab under the roof was a nice move, but seemed like you don't have any feet. And we skipped the last bolt; it's in an unreachable location. Jun 23, 2011
Led this route the other day, and overall it was quite unenjoyable. The first crux at the beginning was the highlight and required some searching to find the proper move. After that comes a very uninspired midsection followed by what appears to be a very fun undercling move. However, after making the move up to the left of the undercling, there is no place to go as you are jammed under the large ceiling with no feet and no hands (and also quite a ways left of your last clip). So, you then have to climb the boring right edge of the small face up to the ceiling and final crux. The bolt placement on the final crux is somewhat sketchy as it is placed far out on the overhang, and the fall line is not well protected -- a fall will have you crashing down onto the not-quite-so-vertical slab where your last bolt is. However, the final move to the anchor can be made somewhat interesting with a heel hook and usage of the left edge to work your way up.

Another issue I had with this route was that it made a terrible TR route to play around on. After setting it up for a few friends, I found that if they peeled off the upper ceiling, they ended up spinning around the rope and had to be lowered to actually get back to the rock.

I also found the 10a rating to be misleading. The opening and final crux are more in the 10c/d range, while the middle is at its hardest a 9.

If this route were a person, I would not be friends with it. Oct 18, 2010