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Broverhang Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Broverhang

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bro Bunnnzzz S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Controlled Chaos S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
	Double D's S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Forget Me Knots S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	J.A.M.P.B S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	See Cups S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,134 ft	2,174 m
GPS:	39.73813, -105.41644 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,658 total · 84/month
Shared By:	Shirtless Mike on May 16, 2021
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

This newer area contains some great, steep thuggy, short cave climbs. It also contains a few moderate, although plenty challenging 5.11s to warm up on. The crag contains a total of 7 climbs, 3 5.11s and 3 5.13s, and one in process unfinished project.

The wall faces Southeast offering morning sun and afternoon shade. In May, the steep section of wall mostly stays shaded, and the belay goes into the shade around 1:30. In December get sun from about 11:15 - 1:00 when it gets blocked by the pillar off to the left.

Broverhang was developed by Matt Samet & Derek Peavey in 2017.

L->R:

A. Unfinished Project

B. Easy Operator, 5.11, 1p.

C. Controlled Chaos, 13 PG-13, 1p, 40', bolts.

D. See Cups, 5.13a , 1p, bolts.

E. Double D's, 5.13b, 1p, bolts.

FED. ??, 13- PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.

F. Bro Bunnnzzz, 5.13a, 1p, 40', bolts.

G. Forget Me Knots, 11, 1p, 40',bolts.

H. J.A.M.P.B, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Getting There

The quickest way is to wade the creek or take the ice bridge when it is in to Nomad Cave, then walk a shortways upstream. The cave will be slightly uphill from the main trail.

Alternatively park just upstream from the main Primo Wall parking by a bridge, cross the road, and follow a faint trail along the river to the wall. This approach takes about 15 minutes and involves a fair bit of scrambling, up over and down riverside cliffs.

Finally you can take the standard Tyrol approach to Primo Wall / Nomad's Cave, and continue a short distance upstream.