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Routes in The Canal Zone

Aretnophobia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batso Canal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beasto S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Berga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box of Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckets of Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cut Loose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Trek T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gondolier Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday Road S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivy League S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lambada S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lame Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The Shade S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Panama Red S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridin' the Moon Buggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ripple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Jerky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Venice Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking With A Ghost S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopper, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Kirk Miller
Page Views: 17,705 total, 155/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details
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Description

Thin sustained crimps, cool movement, and intricate footwork lead up a steep line. Avoid the bailout left and stay on course through the last clip for full value.
A two bolt variation to start adds to the fun; Snake Eyes comes in from the left, starting just right of Turkey Jerky, and pulls through two amazing huecos to clip the second bolt on Ghost.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors, 9 bolts with Snake Eyes start.

Photos

ficknerg
Denver, Colorado
ficknerg   Denver, Colorado
I've gone back and forth a lot on the grade. In Clear-Creek-specific terms, I'd say .11c is just about right, but I've encountered .11d and .12a routes that don't pack quite the punch WWAG does. Either way, this is stout 5.11 crimping at its finest and one of my favorite routes anywhere. Thanks, Kirk. Nice to see you at Canal Zone today. Oct 29, 2017
Gabe Huie
5.11+
Gabe Huie  
5.11+
The route felt like a 11+ especially for the OS, where there some bomber crimps that were crap since everyone just smeared a hurdle of chalk around the wall. I'm just wondering why people are rating this 11b or lower? I felt like Reefer Madness was a little easier than this, since this had a consistent, sustained, crimp face and was only 60 ft high. Aug 15, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
I can see why this has 4 stars, it was a fun route with a very noticeable crux. The rest of the route wasn’t easy, but at least the holds were obvious, so I didn’t have trouble seeing the moves. Then I got to the crux, and it was like hitting a blank wall (literally). It took me two or three falls to figure out a sequence that worked. All I can say is, it’s all about finding the right edges to balance your way up. Precision is important, I fell off on my second attempt, because I went into the crux sequence too dynamically and blew off my foothold. I went straight up the bolt line after the crux, it was slabby and balancy but not nearly as hard as the move you had to pull to get there. There’s a jug below and slightly to the right of the anchor to clip from, my favorite kind of finish! Oct 6, 2015
CRZYFST
Indianapolis, IN
  5.11c/d PG13
CRZYFST   Indianapolis, IN
  5.11c/d PG13
Loved the route. Start from the bottom, and don't use that cheater stone stack. Figure out the boulder start, itgoes even for short climbers ;). Sep 30, 2015
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.11b/c
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.11b/c
One of my favorite lines in CCC. All clips are solid. The climbing is great! Go do this route, you won't regret it! Apr 24, 2015
FelicityMuth  
 
Really fun route, feet are actually pretty good, even on the thinner, smeary crux. Keep looking for small, hidden hand holds. Oct 17, 2014
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11c/d
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11c/d
I agree with Rolofson, the direct line certainly felt like 11c/d. Super thin climbing! Sep 8, 2014
Clay Hansen
Colorado
  5.11c
Clay Hansen   Colorado
  5.11c
Thin crimps, fun movement. Aug 16, 2013
JonW
  5.11b/c
JonW  
  5.11b/c
Found this route to be very well protected with clean falls. Bolts are well placed. Aug 9, 2013
Mark Rolofson
  5.11c/d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11c/d
A great 5.11 steep slab. The difficulty varies a bit depending on how much the climber wanders and zig zags. If you follow the bolts and climb a direct line, the route is 5.11c/d. Oct 24, 2012
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
Kipp.fo,
Sorry it took so long to respond to your post.... The bailout is near the second to last bolt, if you cut left there the final crux can be avoided, but you end up so far to the left, it becomes difficult to clip the final protection bolt. If you've climbed right up to the final bolt and clipped it, you're on route for sure! Sep 4, 2012
kipp.fo
Los Angeles, CA
  5.11b/c
kipp.fo   Los Angeles, CA
  5.11b/c
"Avoid the bailout left and stay on course through the last clip for full value"

Below that bolt there are 3 pretty good crimps...but no chalk on the direct line above. Everyone seems to go slightly left. Is this the bailout'? Or is the bailout going way left? Jul 23, 2012
jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
Excellent and increasingly sustained crimping. Definitely fit my style of climbing. Plenty of bolts to keep you busy (almost makes it harder). Lots of technical foot and hand sequences. Really excellent. Everything seemed really solid. May 13, 2012
Jessica Pemble
Yosemite, CA
 
Jessica Pemble   Yosemite, CA
 
Incredible crimpfest! A few thin clips or two...damn! This is a rad route! Mar 6, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11c
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11c
IMHO best 11 route in CCC. Two super thin cruxes. Body position, foot technique, this route taught me more than any other route. Took me many tries to finally lead it clean- learning all the way. LOVE it! Oct 3, 2011
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Really good route. The only detraction was trying to figure out how to clip the last bolt. This seemed like the crux, the actual climbing wasn't too bad. I got kind of hammered here. Went pretty easily 2nd go with the draws hung. Aug 9, 2011
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.11c
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.11c
A great line to practice footwork on thin holds. Jul 18, 2011
Curt Hokanson
  5.11b/c
Curt Hokanson  
  5.11b/c
Wonderful, thin face climb. Give it 11c on a hot and slimy day, well protected, too! Jul 6, 2011
koreo
Denver, CO
koreo   Denver, CO
Awesome Line. Crimpy moves and it makes sense, no bullshit awkward moves. Well done, sir. Jun 17, 2011
Todd Felix  
 
Beautiful line. Perhaps my favorite in the Canyon. Funny, Kirk always takes the same path, but I climb it a different way pretty much every time! Sometimes just for variety, sometimes the line calls to me differently that day. They all seem about the same difficulty, too. It's like a new on-sight every time. May 31, 2011
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
Sent this again last Friday from the Snake Eyes start... cool throws into huecos to fun, thin biz! Not sure which holds broke off; every time I get on it, I've been using (or falling off) the same holds I used on the FA. May 8, 2011
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11
Super classic! Solid 11 face, not for the faint of heart, fingers or toes. Micro-edge-fest! The business starts just after the fourth bolt and won't let up until just before the last. You are fore-warned. May 7, 2011
Fred C.
Golden, CO
  5.11b/c
Fred C.   Golden, CO
  5.11b/c
One of my favorites. If you love crimps, you'll love this one. The moves definitely keep your full attention throughout. Definitely one on which to completely trust your feet. Apr 29, 2011
SJG Jayne
Denver, CO
SJG Jayne   Denver, CO
Awesome crimpfest. Sep 28, 2010
Ben Burnett
Colorado
Ben Burnett   Colorado
The crux is where it gets a litle harder.... No matter how many holds break it will still be 11+, right...? Jun 2, 2010
Luke Childers
  5.11a
Luke Childers  
  5.11a
I really liked the line. I agree with some others that there are better, maybe not as hard, routes at the CZ. I tell you this thought... if you go left too early just after the high (R) flake get ready for some crazy thin biz!! The whole wall is way cool and I plan to go back this Monday for so more I hope. Great wall and great addition to C.C.C.. Still it seems crowed no matter what time or day of the week it is!!! Cool Wall. Sep 20, 2009
Brett Bauer
  5.11b/c
Brett Bauer  
  5.11b/c
Solid 10 to 10+ face climbing with (2) 11+ cruxes and some spicy clips lands this an awesome route! Aug 20, 2009
Jack C Swift
Evergreen, CO
  5.11b/c
Jack C Swift   Evergreen, CO
  5.11b/c
Very fun crimpy route with some tricky feet. Felt pretty sustained after the 2nd bolt. Warmed up on Ivy League, then hung draws and did Walking With A Ghost. Best route in the Canal Zone. Aug 13, 2009
Bruce Pech
  5.11+
Bruce Pech  
  5.11+
Snakes Eyes is the start to do. Small tips are an asset in the thin crack and tiny pocket at the crux. Excellent route. Jun 30, 2009
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
  5.11a/b
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
  5.11a/b
Definitely one of the better routes at the CZ in general. Excellent thin, demanding edge-work. As to the above caption, I don't think the phrase "runs it out" applies to this or any routes on this wall. Very closely spaced protection. May 19, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11c
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11c
Sent it clean today and it def carries a stiff 11 rating with the current holds (which are all really solid). May 1, 2009
Chad M
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
Chad M   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
Great Route! Very thin and tricky. Another small crimp pulled off near the last bolt, still goes at 11+. Nov 3, 2008
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11c
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11c
Best route on the wall in my opinion. Awesome Kirk. Sep 17, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Excellent work, Kirk. 4 stars. Unique sustained Eldo-esque face climbing. Tricky read. Sep 2, 2008
Matt Bolt
Lakewood
  5.11c
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
  5.11c
Awesome route; however, there may now be a second crux around the second to last bolt. A fairly crucial foot hold broke off last Saturday (8/9/08). Should still go 11+ though. Aug 13, 2008
The crux of the climb comes halfway through the route where the crimps are bit smaller and the feet become more smeary. Jul 25, 2008