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Routes in Rapids Rock

B.F.F.F. S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Eddy (submitted as Unknown 5.9+), The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleshwound S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the crag that sits across the river from the road, between the Merlin formation and Tunnel 2. The crag sits right on the river's edge and is identified by a fixed line across its base. Rock quality is not as nice down low, but it gets much better as you climb upwards.

Getting There

Take the New River trail and you can either rappel from the anchors at the top down to the fixed line, or continue down to Merlin and start heading back upstream on a faint trail past the tip of the big dead tree leaning on the hillside. Make your way back to the wall and scramble up and left across good ledges to some bolts at the dropoff. This is the start of the fixed line... Rappel down the small 10 foot wall to the ledge at the base of the cliff. (You either need to climb out, or ascend back up this short cliff to get out.)

L->R:

A. The Eddy (submitted as Unknown 5.9+), 9, 1p, 35', bolts.
B. B.F.F.F., 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Fleshwound, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.

3 Total Climbs

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half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
If the fixed line at the base bothers anyone, I would be more than happy to remove it. However, it is really the only safe way to navigate across the base of the wall. Oct 30, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I am gonna have to go check those routes out! Looks fun!
i doubt the fixed line would bother anyone other than Jeffco, if they know about it...

Would you want to help me move that big log in to place across from Merlin? Oct 30, 2008
JeffCoOpenSpaceRanger   Golden, CO
The fixed line is fine. We're in the process of inventorying the climbing areas in Clear Creek Canyon (i.e.- measuring impacts, taking photos, etc.) that's why we were looking at the crag.

Please do not drop the dead tree across the creek. Doing so will create a very serious river hazard.

~Ranger Mike Nov 2, 2008

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