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Routes in Rapids Rock

B.F.F.F. S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Eddy (submitted as Unknown 5.9+), The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleshwound S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Jason Zellers, Gilbert Peneda, and Pike Quinn, 2001
Page Views: 474 total · 4/month
Shared By: half-pad-mini-jug on Sep 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is on a separate outcropping upstream from the New River Wall. Follow the approach for Highlander and New River Wall for about 100 yards. As the trail hits a small flat area and heads up left, look down and right to find an outcropping with 2 bolts at the lip and a third as backup about 10 feet from the lip.

Figure out how to get down. I set up a rappel at the anchors with the single bolt as backup and rappelled about 50 feet down and right to the lower anchors (on a sloping shelf just off the water). Watch the ends of your rope or coil them and feed as you rappel to keep your rope dry! Another possibility would be to rappel off a separate line, setup to stay out of the river.

Follow 3 bolts up and left over relatively easy terrain. Crank up and over a small roof (crux - 1 more bolt) and head for the anchors.

Location

This is located on the far left side of the crag on the slabby area.

Protection

2 bolt anchor, 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
Do you have a name for it? Jan 30, 2016
I bolted the route in the summer of 2001 and climbed it with Gilbert Peneda and Pike Quinn the same morning. There's a fun TR out of the pod to the left that climbs to the upper anchor as well. Jan 29, 2016
David Tennant
Denver, CO
David Tennant   Denver, CO
The Capps/Lloyd 2014 guide refers to this route as "The Eddy". May 6, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9
A blue or green Alien could be used between bolts 3 & 4. Nice route. Oct 16, 2012
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
This is also listed under the New River Wall as 'Unknown at New River' and I just copied and pasted the info, since it is at this crag.... Sep 13, 2008