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Routes in Punk Rock

A Guide's Portion of Vino (A Tribute to Will Stanhope) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bits and Pieces S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jonny Rotten S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Never Mind the Bollocks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sex Pistol S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Elevation: 6,499 ft
GPS: 39.737, -105.325 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,764 total, 35/month
Shared By: Keith Ainsworth on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Punk Rock is located on the south side of Tunnel 2. There are two ways into this area, the tyrolean at Wall of the Nineties, or walking in along the base of River Wall. I engineered the River Wall approach, on the east side of Tunnel 2, in the winter of 2000, by sliding large blocks of rock over the ice. This approach is usable after spring runoff. It is a pleasant alternative to the tyrolean if you don't mind getting wet or an easy stroll in the winter when the river is frozen.

Punk Rock is the first area encountered using the River Wall approach. Here I bolted three lines, Never Mind the Bollocks, (unfinished), Sex Pistol, 12a/b, and Johnny Rotten, 11a/b.

Further along the railbed is a short, white, quartzite cliff, Wannabee Wall, where I bolted two micro-routes. The leftmost is Wannabee Too 10b, and on the right is Wannabee One, 11a.

These two areas are a pleasant outdoor place to climb as you can't hear the roar of the road. All routes are better than they look except for Never Mind the Bollocks, which describes it pretty well.

The routes here are (L=>R):
A. Never Mind the Bollocks, 12a/b, 1p, 60', bolts - may be very friable and loose.
B. Sex Pistol, 12a/b, 1p, 75', bolts.
C. Bits and Pieces , 12+, 1p, 90', bolts.
D. Johnny Rotten, 11a/b, 1p, 95', bolts - it's a lot cleaner than in its earlier days.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Walk along the base of River Wall (water shoes are useful), east side of Tunnel 2, or use the tyrolean approached from the Wall of the Nineties side of Tunnel 2.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Punk Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jonny Rotten
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bits and Pieces
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jonny Rotten 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bits and Pieces 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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Thanks for the clarification, guys. I was indeed at "Punk Rock". Somehow, the topo for the left side of Irok seemed to match some of the features at Punk Rock. Theres also a short cliff by the river along the approach, 2 climbs here.

There's lots of rock around there....

ST Aug 18, 2003
There is another crag in this area as you walk down the path. It is closer to the river on the right. I think it has been dubbed Punk Rock. When I was there last year, there were 3-4 routes being devolped with chalked arks at the base rating difficulty. They all look good but neede some cleaning at that time. Aug 15, 2003
It is possible that you were at a different crag. There is another unpublished crag in the same vicinity that I'm told has a route or two with no hangers. Irok is a bit of a walk up the hill. Aug 13, 2003
Went to Irok this past weekend, but had trouble locating routes. The furthest-right route we saw had "11b" chalked at the bottom, but the hangers were missing. The climb took a left-angling line to a ledge with a huge block to the right. The anchor was set back on the ledge.

No sign of the 9 or 10d; but the harder routes on the "lower" wall were all intact.

Did the FA nab some of the hangers on these routes in hopes of greener pastures? Whoever took the hangers was awful polite; they even screwed the nuts back on the bolts.

ST Aug 8, 2003

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