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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

This rock does look surprisingly like its European big brother although far more modest in size. Most of the routes on this rock are 1-pitch sport climbs, but the rock also boasts one of the longer sport routes in the canyon, Too (5.12a), at 4 pitches. There are some traditionally-protected climbs here with potential for plenty of traditional, exploring-type climbing above the sport routes...beware of rockfall. The sport climbs on this rock are well-protected and fun. During the summer months, it's a nice but popular place to climb as it keeps the shade longer than many rocks in the area and the approach is minimal. Some of the routes on the right side of the cliff have tags on the 1st bolt with names and ratings.

L->R:

A. Black Hole, 11, 1p, 30', gear.
B. Black Haul, 10, 1p, 25', gear. Alcove.
C. Delusions of Grandeur, 12, 1p, 25', bolts.

arete

D1. The DeCappitator, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
D2. Bonehead, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Conehead, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Unknown, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
G1. Headline, 10a, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Crack.
G2. Trouthead, 10 or 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Eiger Sanction, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Eiffel Tower, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
J. Herbal Essence, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.
K. First Impressions, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
L. Unknown, 9, 1p, 80', TR.
M. Footloose, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. Unknown, 10c, 1p, 80', TR.
P. Eiger Direct, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11, 1p, 65', bolts.

Some of the following routes are best done with 2 ropes or a 70m rope:

R. Too!, 12-, 4p, 135m, bolts & gear.
S. The Nordwand, 11, 2p, 80', bolts.
T. Natural Selection, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
U. Tierra del Fuego, 11 or 12-, 1p, 100', bolts. Above Tierra Del Fuego (extension), 12-, 105', bolts.
V. Bush Administration, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.

Top of approach trail.

W. Busch Gardens, 10, 1p, 120', bolts..
X. The Naked Hedge, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
Y. The Green Zone, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
Z1. Persistent Vegetative State, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.
Z2. Free Up the Weed, 10 or 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
AA. The Decider, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
BB. Misunderestimate, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.
CC. Tsunami of Charisma, 11-, 1p, 115', bolts.
DD. "Is Our Children Learning?", 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

This is 3.3 miles past the west side of tunnel one (which is ~4.5 miles from CO 93 & US 6). You pass over a bridge, and it's directly on your south/left side. Park on a small pullout on the north/right side, or use a larger dirt pullout downstream/before the bridge.

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Eiger

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Found a pair of Evolvs around the base of Green Zone yesterday, Thursday 9/21. Found it around 5pm after a group left. Sep 22, 2017
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
As per the 2013 comment re human waste, there is now a wagbag box at the Little Eiger, sponsored by Foothills Climbing Community and JeffCo Open Space. Donations accepted to help continue this program. Please help keep CCC clean! Jul 1, 2017
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Found a pack at the parking area. Describe it, and it is yours. Jun 30, 2017
Jim Royce
morrison, co
Jim Royce   morrison, co
Had a lead fall on Busch Gardens and broke my ankle. We had to rush out and leave all the draws. If you picked them up please contact me at climberjim@msn.com. They are camp Nano draws. 303-905-0833 Thanks. Jun 29, 2017
Derek Branstrom
Littleton, CO
Derek Branstrom   Littleton, CO
Found a Mabe guidebook at the base of Little Eiger yesterday (5/8/17). Call or text me at 720-982-5478 if you think it's yours. May 9, 2017
rparker  
Hi all,
I left my guidebook at Little Eiger Tuesday morning, likely near Bonehead/Conehead. It's the new-ish Fixed Pin book by Capps/Lloyd. Let me know if you chanced upon it? Much appreciated. Jul 23, 2015
KWaless  
Sad day. I think I left my helmet at Little Eiger over Labor Day weekend. I sure hope someone can be my hero and tell me they've found it.
It's the gray Black Diamond Half Dome. It may have some blue nail polish on it, but it's quite possible that has rubbed of.
Please let me know if you found it, and I would love to come get it from you!
Thank you. Sep 8, 2014
cptodd  
Lost a pair of ladies climbing shoes, Evolv women's Elektra (purple), size 6, I think, on Saturday, June 15. They were probably around Persistent Vegetative State, attached to a red biner with a pair of fingernail clippers attached. If you've found them, please PM me or call 3174597844. Thanks so much in advance!

chelsea Jun 16, 2014
LuisC
Boulder
LuisC   Boulder
I found a Mammut helmet at this crag today. E-mail me if it's yours at lmcu20 at yahoo dot com. Aug 10, 2013
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
Hey Dean, the registration boxes are a project I'm spearheading. Including information like you're talking about is something I'd considered but just haven't had the time to pull together. Do you have some thoughts or examples? Shoot me a PM. Jul 24, 2013
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
Mike, there is a registry at this cliff. Do you know who runs this? I wonder if they would allow some educational info to live in there to help prevent this. Jul 24, 2013
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
I fear we will start to see more and more of this kind of behavior at climbing sites situated along the outskirts of the Denver Metro area. For many of us, basic outdoor ethics are just the norm, but for a large and growing population, what many of us would consider the basics are simply a foreign concept. Hopefully we can get creative and figure out ways to reach the growing number of folks that haven't been exposed to these ethics before these issues become more prevalent.

P.S. That's disgusting. Jul 24, 2013
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
I was at Little Eiger yesterday, and I must say I was quite disappointed with the way some people have been treating this crag. On the far right side about 2-3 feet off the trail, I encountered some items on the trail left behind that I don't care to mention. When you have to go, go, but at least do it far from the cliff, off the trail and dig a cat hole or carry a bag, because there isn't enough space for everyone to dig a hole anyways. I was shocked to see how much trash was left behind. Please do your part to keep Clear Creek Canyon clean and any other areas you climb and practice Leave No Trace Ethics. This is not to discourage. Jul 24, 2013
Climbing shoes found near Bush Administration on Saturday, 9-15-12.
Contact Randy: 72O-285-715one. Sep 16, 2012
I left a Timex Ironman watch at Little Eiger yesterday. If found, please PM me. Many thanks.

David Jul 3, 2012
PHotY  
Little Eiger is more like 4.5 miles from the US 6 and CO 93 intersection. Park on the right side of the road immediately after the first bridge that crosses over the creek. Head up the climber's trail on the left of the road. Oct 10, 2011
Rob D  
Please note that multiple vehicles have been broken into near Little Eiger in Clear Creek Canyon since December 2007. Two early in the morning and two late at night. All vehicles belonged to ice climbers. The criminals appear to be going solely after cash, credit cards, etc as they left all other valuables (phone, ipod, etc) in the vehicle. The criminals then made there way to Blackhawk where they used the stolen credit cards, etc.

Does anyone have similar reports? Does anyone have any additional information that might help with the investigation?

If so, please post AND contact Luke Ligrani with the Blackhawk Police at 303-582-0503. Reference Case No. 08-0608

Let's put an end to this and find these bastards!

You can view pictures of the guy using a stolen credit card at the following website helpcatchthisguy.com Feb 18, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
I'm trying to get the caption deleted from my topo but have so far failed. Old password and account!

Just had my most recent rope fixed rope theft this December, up at Table from Roseanne's. Two from the Little Eiger is my tally so far. Dec 14, 2007
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
"C" is a 5.12b called "Delusions of Grandeur." Nov 17, 2007
Vandalism on The Little Eiger.

On May 14th I placed a fix line on a new route to the right of The Decider. I have been putting up new lines on The Eiger for three years. Yesterday May 18th I went up to clean and discovered that someone had cut about twenty five feet off the bottom of my static rope!

I don't really understand why someone would do this? There are certainly no ethical issues with these new routes. The Eiger is not a wilderness or trad area and everyone who would go to The Eiger is there for sport climbing by the side of a road jammed with casino buses, gravel trucks and Harleys. So what is the problem?

Anyway if you have an issue I prefer you let me know here than vandalize my gear. Whoever did this must be a complete As*hole. I have put in a lot of time and money on this crag for all to enjoy. I have had mostly very positive response and this act makes me wonder why I bother.

Thor Kieser May 20, 2006
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
The route between [Headline] (10a) and [Eiger Sanction] (10d) feels hard ten - 10c or 10d. When I climbed it, the guy that put it up was there too and wanted some rate opinions. I think hard ten for some thin moves in the middle. Nice climb. Jun 17, 2004
Choose Headline for a photo of a topo of the new stuff. Thanks AC! Aug 17, 2003
Talking recently with an old climbing friend, we where talking about how people have been claiming "1st ascents/new routes" which where actually climbed back in the late 70s etc.... Dale worked with Layton Kor once, and they once where driving through Clear Creek Canyon (CCC). Kor mentioned that he had done 5 or 6 routes on the Little Eiger to Dale, as they drove by it. There are a lot of climbs that where done and named in CCC back in the 70s & 80s. I remember back then that CLIMBING magazine listed a lot of the routes folks reported. Jun 20, 2003
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
More road noise than at other crags in the Canyon, mostly from gravel trucks. Not so bad at the base of the climbs, but really distracting once gets a few feet off the ground. Jun 18, 2003
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
See the discussion under Headline for the new bolting activity, though that made me more confused. I did the leftmost line, just W of the arete. Was it Bonehead? It seemed like 10b or c at the top, but there were more than just 5 bolts. Maybe Bonehead is just to the right of this line. Or, maybe the bolts were added afterwards, like on Eiger Sanction. There are 3 separate anchors within a few feet of each other at the top...this seemed a bit excessive. Can someone with knowledge straighten this situation out and add the new routes to the database? Jun 18, 2003

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