Elevation: 6,200 ft
GPS: 39.743, -105.299 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 126,673 total · 556/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This rock does look surprisingly like its European big brother although far more modest in size. Most of the routes on this rock are 1-pitch sport climbs, but the rock also boasts one of the longer sport routes in the canyon, Too (5.12a), at 4 pitches. There are some traditionally-protected climbs here with potential for plenty of traditional, exploring-type climbing above the sport routes...beware of rockfall. The sport climbs on this rock are well-protected and fun. During the summer months, it's a nice but popular place to climb as it keeps the shade longer than many rocks in the area and the approach is minimal. Some of the routes on the right side of the cliff have tags on the 1st bolt with names and ratings.

L->R:

A. Black Hole, 11, 1p, 30', gear.
B. Black Haul, 10, 1p, 25', gear. Alcove.
C. Delusions of Grandeur, 12, 1p, 25', bolts.

arete

D1. The DeCappitator, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
D2. Bonehead, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Conehead, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Unknown, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
G1. Headline, 10a, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Crack.
G2. Trouthead, 10 or 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Eiger Sanction, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Eiffel Tower, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
J. Herbal Essence, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.
K. First Impressions, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
L. Unknown, 9, 1p, 80', TR.
M. Footloose, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. Unknown, 10c, 1p, 80', TR.
P. Eiger Direct, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11, 1p, 65', bolts.

Some of the following routes are best done with 2 ropes or a 70m rope:

R. Too!, 12-, 4p, 135m, bolts & gear.
S. The Nordwand, 11, 2p, 80', bolts.
T. Natural Selection, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
U. Tierra del Fuego, 11 or 12-, 1p, 100', bolts. Above Tierra Del Fuego (extension), 12-, 105', bolts.
V. Bush Administration, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.

Top of approach trail.

W. Busch Gardens, 10, 1p, 120', bolts..
X. The Naked Hedge, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
Y. The Green Zone, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
Z1. Persistent Vegetative State, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.
Z2. Free Up the Weed, 10 or 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
AA. The Decider, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
BB. Misunderestimate, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.
CC. Tsunami of Charisma, 11-, 1p, 115', bolts.
DD. "Is Our Children Learning?", 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.

Getting There

This is 3.3 miles past the west side of tunnel one (which is ~4.5 miles from CO 93 & US 6). You pass over a bridge, and it's directly on your south/left side. Park on a small pullout on the north/right side, or use a larger dirt pullout downstream/before the bridge.

40 Total Climbs

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Location: Little Eiger Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Eiger

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 392
Herbal Essence
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 563
First Impressions
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 307
Headline
Trad, Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 387
Persistent Vegetative State
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 294
Busch Gardens
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 375
Bush Administration
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 113
Misunderestimate
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 141
Eiger Sanction
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 135
The Green Zone
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 145
The Nordwand
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 107
Tierra Del Fuego
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 107
Tsunami Of Charisma
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 125
Radometer in the Red Zone
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 174
Eiger Direct
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 81
Too!
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Herbal Essence
 392
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
First Impressions
 563
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Headline
 307
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Persistent Vegetative State
 387
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Busch Gardens
 294
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bush Administration
 375
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Misunderestimate
 113
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Eiger Sanction
 141
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Green Zone
 135
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Nordwand
 145
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Tierra Del Fuego
 107
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tsunami Of Charisma
 107
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Radometer in the Red Zone
 125
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Eiger Direct
 174
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Too!
 81
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 4 pitches
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