Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: K. Trout, O. Mitchell, P. Prandoni, 1985
Page Views: 2,344 total · 12/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details


This is a wee bit obscure...maybe not as obscure as the routes to the right and left. This is an "old" gear route on the left side of the Little Eiger Wall in a small, grungy alcove just a bit left of Bonehead. It is interesting for historical reasons, perhaps, or for the curious. It is probably the easier of the 2 overhanging crack lines here. It is good for a pump. It has a manky anchor as of 1998.

Fire this short, pumpy crack that give a workout for its short, perhaps - 25 feet, length. It seemed to increase the pump at the end. The jams are good. It is probably 5.8 at the Gunks. It has no bolts. The anchor required faith.


Rack: #2.5 Friend, nut, #2 Friend, nut, green Alien, #0.5 Friend + slings for the anchor.

Per Dwight Jugornot: there are currently lowering biners at the anchors.


chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
This climb is sweet. Short, but sweet. Good pump! Poor feet until the top when you get the jugs. Aug 16, 2007
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Agreed, short and sweeeeet! May 17, 2008
this would probably get 5.11 at the gunks, the cracks are graded pretty fluffy there. Jul 25, 2009
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
I thought this would probably be 5.8 @ The Gunks...

Really fun little climb though. Nice sharp in-cut holds. It's over fast.... I placed 0.4 to #1 Camalots (not in that order). The only scary part is if the flake/crack pulled off with you and all your gear. Even so, the fall would probably be survivable. The hardest part may be clipping the anchor. It's a little awkward under there. The anchor just has one rotten sling with rings, so bring some quick links, or some cord to fix it up. Otherwise, it's very easy to clip one of the anchor bolts and wander to the right and lower from the hooks on Bonehead. Jun 30, 2011
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
Pumpy, yes. Blind and tricky gear. Not hard. The anchor is good now with lowering biners. Apr 12, 2017