Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: K. Trout, O. Mitchell, P. Prandoni, 1985
Page Views: 2,129 total · 12/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a wee bit obscure...maybe not as obscure as the routes to the right and left. This is an "old" gear route on the left side of the Little Eiger Wall in a small, grungy alcove just a bit left of Bonehead. It is interesting for historical reasons, perhaps, or for the curious. It is probably the easier of the 2 overhanging crack lines here. It is good for a pump. It has a manky anchor as of 1998.

Fire this short, pumpy crack that give a workout for its short, perhaps - 25 feet, length. It seemed to increase the pump at the end. The jams are good. It is probably 5.8 at the Gunks. It has no bolts. The anchor required faith.

Protection

Rack: #2.5 Friend, nut, #2 Friend, nut, green Alien, #0.5 Friend + slings for the anchor.

Per Dwight Jugornot: there are currently lowering biners at the anchors.

Photos

Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
 
Pumpy, yes. Blind and tricky gear. Not hard. The anchor is good now with lowering biners. Apr 12, 2017
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.10-
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.10-
I thought this would probably be 5.8 @ The Gunks...

Really fun little climb though. Nice sharp in-cut holds. It's over fast.... I placed 0.4 to #1 Camalots (not in that order). The only scary part is if the flake/crack pulled off with you and all your gear. Even so, the fall would probably be survivable. The hardest part may be clipping the anchor. It's a little awkward under there. The anchor just has one rotten sling with rings, so bring some quick links, or some cord to fix it up. Otherwise, it's very easy to clip one of the anchor bolts and wander to the right and lower from the hooks on Bonehead. Jun 30, 2011
slim    
this would probably get 5.11 at the gunks, the cracks are graded pretty fluffy there. Jul 25, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.10
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.10
Agreed, short and sweeeeet! May 17, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
This climb is sweet. Short, but sweet. Good pump! Poor feet until the top when you get the jugs. Aug 16, 2007