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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Tod Anderson, early 1990s
Page Views: 4,196 total, 20/month
Shared By: Mark Wyss on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The first pitch comes in at fun 5.10c. This is the second to last bolt line on the right side of the crag. A high first bolt up some slabby stuff sets you up. Follow the bolt line as the route turns steeper, then go through an overhanging bulge. The second pitch wasn't done by us, but it follows the right bolt line, and includes a "tricky crux bulge" just before the final anchor. From these top anchors, you can try "Too!", by scrambling up to the anchors up and right.

Protection

This is 2 pitches long. There are 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, then six more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It is 105' from the top bolts, so bring a 60m or rappel in two pitches. It is very well protected.

Photos

kjdetlor
Colorado Springs, CO
kjdetlor   Colorado Springs, CO
Great climb to use as an alternate opening pitch to 'Too!' Aug 26, 2013
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.11b
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.11b
First pitch is great! Second pitch is decent, but awkward in spots, and the anchor isn't in the best place to clean the route from. The crux sequence is fantastic though hard to read.
The moves getting off the ledge on P2 are extremely dangerous if you're not tall enough to make the clip from the ledge. I could just stretch to it at 5'9", my shorter partner had to make an extremely committing move to get it clipped. Jun 23, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
1st pitch is just plain fun. Awesome route. Aug 28, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
 
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
 
Jug Haul City!! First pitch is sweet, a pumpy side pull helps the direct line over the roof, or go right for more holds. Aug 15, 2008
Belayers be warned!!!! The flake/crux holds groan on the bulge near the top of pitch1 after the 5th bolt. It may be only a matter of time before someone pulls this square meter of rock off. May 8, 2005
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
 
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
 
1st might be the most classic pitch on the whole wall. super sweet and juggy. absolutely beautiful climb. mid ten just for the top overhang. 10b or 10c. Jun 17, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Nice [route] overall, best as a single pitch, but here and there you might want to use a 2' sling to avoid drag that way, esp at the first bolt anchor.

Nice long route with a few distinct cruxes.

I think 11b is fair. Bryson, your height/arm length probably made the 2nd pitch crux reach a little easier. I had to "pop" for it quite a bit and since I couldn't get it static, I didn't know what the hold was like. Pretty hard that way. Aug 18, 2003
The second pitch is good too. The dirty climbing is pretty easy to avoid and the corner has great moves on thought provoking holds. I was able to reach the ground with a single 60m rope from the top. I'd say the second pitch is probably 11- however... Sep 5, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
The first pitch is amazing, hard to believe that routes like this exist naturally. All I can say is Jugs !! The second pitch is not really that enjoyable, although the 'bulge' as mentioned is certainly the crux and continues almost to the anchors. Stay to the left of the bolts towards the top to get to the anchors, or you will get into very dirty rock. The second pitch is a little dirty to start with as well, and watch fromabove if there are people on 'Too'. DEFINENTLY do the first pitch. Oct 3, 2001