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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: John Bissel, September 1991
Page Views: 3,056 total, 15/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a halfway decent climb that's well-protected and has solid 5.10 moves throughout. The crux comes at the end and involves a tricky high-step, but it's very well-protected. The route is between the Eiger Sanction (to the left) and Footloose (to the right).

Correction by Drew Allan: Eiffel Tower is the sixth route to the right of the cave area/arete (Bonehead), which is located on the left (East) side of Little Eiger. See "Headline" topo photo. It is the first route you encounter left of Footloose after a swath of stone that doesn't have any routes. The route begins approximately 15' right of Eiger Sanction with an early '90s first bolt a bit off the deck and below a small roof.

Move up some interesting face moves and clip two bolts below the roof. This is old school bolting, so be careful. Climb over the roof and angle right along a ramp where there is a solid runout between the third and fourth bolt on moderate climbing. The crux is from the fourth to sixth bolt and offers great, dynamic moves with tricky feet to a right hand horizontal. One more clip leads to the open shut anchor that is protected with a clip link connected bolt. ET is probably harder than ES next door. In fact, I don't think this route gets done as often as it should. It is definitely worthwhile. It has seven bolts.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
5.11a
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
5.11a
Agree with hwendlandt. Just climbed this today, maybe I was off on this one, but in the context of similarly rated climbs (hard 5.10-5.11) we did today:

Bonehead, S, 5.10c/d;
Conehead, S, 5.11b;
Trouthead, S, 5.10c/d;
Eiger Sanction, S, 5.10d;
Eiffel Tower, S, 5.10d;

the crux was every bit as hard as Conehead for me (which I thought was 5.11a), and harder than Trouthead or Eiger Sanction. Jun 4, 2015
Hansen Wendlandt
  5.11a
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.11a
This was an awesome climb with a wide variety of moves through the most difficult section. My 2 cents is that at 5'11", the move through the 6th bolt took every millimeter I had; and the move up to 7th was a stretch too. Either I'm missing something key, or someone shorter is just going to have to lunge twice. Probably 10c for someone taller, 11b/c for someone quite short. Sep 25, 2013
Alex Andrews
5.10d PG13
Alex Andrews  
5.10d PG13
Getting to the 2 bolt is PG-13. My partner had bad fall there, so be warned. Sep 6, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Super fun route! The upper face is just awesome with great nubbins! Not to be missed. Apr 27, 2010
The 1/2 worn open coldshut and dog chain anchor was repaired on 10/16/2008. The hardware was supplied by the Anchor Replacement Initiative

climbing.com/community/ari/

See also photos posted for this route. If there are other routes in Clear Creek in need of some repair please post them up. This kind of hardware is scary. Oct 20, 2008
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
I have always had trouble correlating the route description here to the actual climb. Having just climbed this route again, I now know why. It is because the text written above by Peter is for the WRONG ROUTE. This may have been one of the first routes posted for Little Eiger as the date coincides with the beginning of CB.com. As ac pointed out above, the pictures above are for First Impression not Eiffel Tower. No, Peter's route description is for First Impression. He must have thought the name for the First Impression corner was Eiffel Tower. He refers to ET as between Eiger Sanction and Eiger Direct, which it is not. ET is between ES and Footloose. I think it's clear that he was referring to the FI corner by describing it being left of ED. It seems odd that he would make this mistake as the latest Rolfoson guide was already published, but he did. With that cleared up, here is the route description below:

Eiffel Tower is the sixth route to the right of the cave area/arete (Bonehead), which is located on the left (East) side of Little Eiger. See "Headline" topo photo. It is the first route you encounter left of Footloose after a swath of stone that doesn't have any routes. The route begins approximately 15' right of Eiger Sanction with an early 90's first bolt a bit off the deck and below a small roof.

Move up some interesting face moves and clip two bolts below the roof. This is old school bolting so be careful. Climb over the roof and angle right along a ramp where there is a solid runout between the third and fourth bolt on moderate climbing. The crux is from the fourth to sixth bolt and offers great, dynamic moves with tricky feet to a right hand horizontal. One more clip leads to the open shut anchor that is protected with a clip link connected bolt. ET is probably harder than ES next door. In fact, I don't think this route gets done as often as it should. Definitely worthwhile. Seven bolts. May 6, 2006
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
 
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
 
What I said in my previous post. It's for [Eiger Sanction] not [Eiffel Tower]. My bad. Hadn't climbed [Eiffel Tower], I'm sure it's cool. Jun 17, 2004
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
 
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
 
There is a slight runout between #4 and 5 but not to fear. It's the easiest section on the whole route. Agree with the rating. Good stuff and thin at the top with the high steps. Great route. Super well bolted. At least 10 bolts plus anchors. Jun 16, 2004
It should be mentioned that there is a solid runout between the third and fourth bolt on moderate climbing. The fifth is tricky to clip and has a spinning hanger. I don't think it would be fun to fall from here before clipping the fifth bolt. If a problem ever occurred with the fourth, it will be a long, nasty ride. This route is definitely harder than its neighbor, Eiger Sanction. Oct 22, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
Agreed with the 2 star rating this climb gets. I think it is a little more thought provoking than other 10d's many people have done. The steeper slabby climbing involved on the route is very enjoyable. High step not needed if you can figure other beta, but a little more commiting. Oct 2, 2001