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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 1996
Page Views: 11,606 total, 56/month
Shared By: Mark Wyss on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Take the bolt line that travels just left of an orange streak that passes up a small left-facing dihedral. The crux is exiting the dihedral and getting over the rounded top of the rock.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. It shares an anchor with Footloose.

Eds. The lead bolts were replaced with SS bolts/hangers in 7/16. Thanks, Erika!
RuudVN  
I have 4 QDs left by someone bailing on a rain storm 6/7/17? Send me an email, and I can get them back to you? Jun 8, 2017
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
 
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
 
This is one of the best 5.9s I have ever done. Jul 13, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Challenge for me because this was the first time for me in Clear Creek and climbing on granite that really made you LOOK for your feet and body positions. Probably the most stout 5.9 I've ever been on.... Jul 3, 2016
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
Replaced all 10 rusted lead bolts (plated Rawls with cold shuts) with SS bolts/hangers (see fixed hardware list on this page for details). We were able to re-use 70% of the holes. Also replaced the worn quicklinks (plated for plated) at the anchor (old anchor in good shape so not replaced). Thanks to Access Fund and American Alpine Club for supporting this work through a grant. Please consider donating to BCC (indicate you want your donation to go to CCC bolt replacement) to support fixed hardware replacement in the canyon.
Jul 2, 2016
Andrew1986
  5.10a
Andrew1986  
  5.10a
I climbed this last week and would put it closer to 10a than a 9. I am a strong (12b/c) leader and put this up to warm-up, and the move at the top was tricky and harder than the 9s I have done. Also, saw the big X on the rock. Felt solid to me and apparently has been there for 10+ years. Just a thought. Aug 10, 2015
Kevin Corrigan
Boulder, CO
Kevin Corrigan   Boulder, CO
Lead this today. I think if you're new to the grade, straight up and slightly left at the top of the dihedral is the way to go. There's a balancy stemming section that doesn't take a lot of power, it just takes some time to figure out the puzzle. The key is a right-facing rail you can push against with your left foot. There's no way I could have pulled off the mantel to the right, but I saw stronger climbers cruise up. Mar 22, 2015
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.9+
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.9+
Do this route. It's fun, long, pumpy, and pretty sustained, but I think it all goes at a stiff 5.9 if you can find the sequences. I agree that coming out of the dihedral is probably hard for a 9, but it's well-protected, so get on it! Jul 22, 2014
Alton R.
Boulder, Co
Alton R.   Boulder, Co
I replaced the bottom quicklinks (lowering ones) on Saturday 9/15/2012. The old ones were looking pretty worn out. New ones are bomber 3/8". Sep 19, 2012
PHotY
  5.9+
PHotY  
  5.9+
There is no stake in the ground anymore, just recognize it off of the dihedral and bolts that follow under it. Some decently strong 5.9 moves warrant the + if you have not climbed in a while. Little more strength is required for this route than Herbal Essence second route to its left. I will definitely climb this again. Oct 10, 2011
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
This is a warm-up route, the crux is 9, just have to think it through. Aug 6, 2011
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
The section at the top of the flake is like a little piece of J-Tree in Clear Creek. Fun route! Nov 7, 2010
Jim Gloeckler
Denver, Colo.
Jim Gloeckler   Denver, Colo.
I think the crux is 5.9+ because of the pump factor. Moving thru the dihedral and resting where their is rests still provides a pump which has to be delt with at the crux. For shure a Sandbag 5.9 since it's much harder than "The Unsaid" and about as hard as "Morning Thunder". Just my opinion. Tough but nice climb. Two and a half stars. Sep 4, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.9
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.9
There is a loose horn about 2/3rds of the way up the flake at the top of the dihedral (is ticked with a X). Use caution if you choose to put weight on it. Otherwise, this is a classic nine dihedral. The crux (direct) is pulling the exposed transfer from good feet (dihedral) over a bulge with a hidden crimp to thin holds. You can also go right to an easier walk up. Great warm-up. Aug 15, 2008
raise  
Great warm up for some of the mid range 10s on this wall. The crux def pushes the typical Clear Ck 5.9 standard. Fun climb. Jun 23, 2008
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
Good climb. Starts out with face moves and then you can undercling and side pull or layback up the dihedral. I exited the dihedral to the right. Take your time and you'll find it. There is a small not so obvious crimp for your right hand to get you out. Just find any crystal or nub for the left hand and balance your way out. Smear the feet. Two ballancy moves and you'll be out. The start feels like 5.7 but gets progressively harder. Great warmup route. Jul 17, 2007
Nate Oakes
  5.10a
Nate Oakes  
  5.10a
I agree with Ron, although I go to the left at the crux instead of to the right or center. I'm told that, if you go right, there's a thin, unmarked crimp that's hard to see. So I can't speak to that variation... but going left is a tough move for me. The dihedral is a blast, long reaches (I'm 5'-10") for big holds. Jul 17, 2006
Charlie Fried
New York, NY
  5.10-
Charlie Fried   New York, NY
  5.10-
Crux felt a lot harder then a 9!
I went right is that the correct way, or did I make it harder for myself? Jul 16, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
A great pitch with lots of good moves, but it's a sandbag at 5.9; the crux at the top of the corner is more like 10a and is tricky to figure out. Sep 11, 2005
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
On the topo above, the routes are:
7: Footloose (5.10a)
6: First Impressions (5.9)
5: Eiger Direct (5.11d)
4: Radometer in the Red Zone (5.11b/c)
3: Too! (pitch 1: 5.10d)
2: Nordwand (pitch 1: 5.10c)
1: Natural Selection (5.11a/b; long rope required) Sep 11, 2005
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Good line, maybe a little stiff for Clear Creek 5.9. I remember those Red Slab lines as being a bit runout for sport climbs. I tried the crux 3 ways, left is definitely harder, straight up and right a little is the easiest and still allows one to clip the bolt, manteling to the right is not as hard as left, but harder than the center line. Jun 18, 2003
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
A really good line! After climbing this a few times and watching others; I am noticing that there is a tendency to go right at the top of the flake and semi-mantle over the lip - this leaves a long reach left to clip the bolt - I toyed and found that the climb can go in a plumb line with the bolts over the upper lip; however, it is a reach to the 2 finger crack for your left with thin feet, but it sets you up to clip at eye level, both moves, either straight up or jog right, gain the lip and are tricky - try it - Great climb, always busy! Aug 8, 2002
Watch out for a loose block below the crux. Someone put a big X on it with chalk so it's not hard to spot. Be careful and enjoy. Apr 28, 2002
This just might be my favorite climb I have ever done there were a couple of moves that scared me, but I think that is what made it fun. Oct 27, 2001
Unlike the 5.9 across the river (Vapour trail - Red Slab) this is a good route for beginner 5.9 leaders. It was my first 5.9 lead and I enjoyed it tremendously. The 5.10a next to it (left) is also a safe lead (my first 10a lead). Jul 18, 2001