Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, 1996.
Page Views: 2,896 total · 14/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Aug 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


117 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This is the fourth route from the right. Climb some slabby moves to a steep headwall, then pull on small crimps and layaways for 20 feet to the 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

6 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Walt Wehner
  5.11b
Walt Wehner  
  5.11b
Alan - you could very well be right. I've got a long wingspan and thus tend to sandbag on reachy vertical routes. Definitely a sustained series of very small holds. Nov 5, 2001
I'll third the motion for the 11c. I remember scratching out the b in the llb/c grading as soon as I got home. Great sustained sequence on thin sharp crimps and a reachy, funky, mantel. Feb 3, 2002
Most people avoid the original, although somewhat contrived first crux by moving right just below the bulge then back left over it. The rating should probably stick with the way most people do the route & still follow the general line of bolts. Doing it direct is about 5.11d. Aug 9, 2002
Erik Durgin
  5.11c
Erik Durgin  
  5.11c
I thought this was solid 11c and totally rad. Sep 14, 2006
Sam S
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Sam S   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Fun for sure, I sort of traversed left to right under the third bolt then back left for the crimpy crux and then the mantel which made for an awesome sequence, interesting moves but very sustained and difficult, I give it 11c/d probably. Jul 10, 2009
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
The only strike against this route is the sharpness of the crimpness. Otherwise it was very cool. The mantle is actually easy. Apr 29, 2011
robbie s
littleton
robbie s   littleton
I sent this route today onsight, staying with the bolts the whole way...staying off the chalked flake just left of the bolt line on the slab part...and not doing any traverse. I have a negative 4" wing span, I'm 5'11" and did not see a reason to use a mantle move to gain the high crimp on the final moves in the crux sequence. There are good feet the whole way.... I thought it felt 11b ... but I have a funky climbing style.... Great climb all around... but the whole a,b,c,d, thing I don't understand, I know where it comes from, but some a's feel harder than the c's.... So, I wish it just go back to - and + ...but that's just me.... Sep 24, 2012
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11+
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11+
Going direct/slightly left definitely felt harder than 11b. The movement and clipping was sustained, difficult, and very thin IMO. Felt closer to 11c/d. Didn't try it from the right side. Maybe bailing right around the bulge makes it 11b. Sep 8, 2015