Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, 1996.
Page Views: 2,724 total, 14/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Aug 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


108 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the fourth route from the right. Climb some slabby moves to a steep headwall, then pull on small crimps and layaways for 20 feet to the 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

6 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11+
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11+
Going direct/slightly left definitely felt harder than 11b. The movement and clipping was sustained, difficult, and very thin IMO. Felt closer to 11c/d. Didn't try it from the right side. Maybe bailing right around the bulge makes it 11b. Sep 8, 2015
robbie s
littleton
robbie s   littleton
I sent this route today onsight, staying with the bolts the whole way...staying off the chalked flake just left of the bolt line on the slab part...and not doing any traverse. I have a negative 4" wing span, I'm 5'11" and did not see a reason to use a mantle move to gain the high crimp on the final moves in the crux sequence. There are good feet the whole way.... I thought it felt 11b ... but I have a funky climbing style.... Great climb all around... but the whole a,b,c,d, thing I don't understand, I know where it comes from, but some a's feel harder than the c's.... So, I wish it just go back to - and + ...but that's just me.... Sep 24, 2012
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
The only strike against this route is the sharpness of the crimpness. Otherwise it was very cool. The mantle is actually easy. Apr 29, 2011
Sam S
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Sam S   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Fun for sure, I sort of traversed left to right under the third bolt then back left for the crimpy crux and then the mantel which made for an awesome sequence, interesting moves but very sustained and difficult, I give it 11c/d probably. Jul 10, 2009
Erik Durgin
  5.11c
Erik Durgin  
  5.11c
I thought this was solid 11c and totally rad. Sep 14, 2006
Most people avoid the original, although somewhat contrived first crux by moving right just below the bulge then back left over it. The rating should probably stick with the way most people do the route & still follow the general line of bolts. Doing it direct is about 5.11d. Aug 9, 2002
I'll third the motion for the 11c. I remember scratching out the b in the llb/c grading as soon as I got home. Great sustained sequence on thin sharp crimps and a reachy, funky, mantel. Feb 3, 2002
Walt Wehner  
 
Alan - you could very well be right. I've got a long wingspan and thus tend to sandbag on reachy vertical routes. Definitely a sustained series of very small holds. Nov 5, 2001