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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Stu Ritchie
Page Views: 2,285 total, 16/month
Shared By: T. Kieser on May 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I am "The Decider" says GWB. Well, that is another demonstration of just how well our Prez speaks English! I know immigrants both legal and illegal who would not make such a grammatical error! Is there anyone out there still like this guy?

Mantle past the first bolt on steep ground, dance through some thin face, take a break on a small ledge, side-pull up more face and crank a small roof at the top! Very Cool!

Location

Look for the climb just right of Persistent Vegetative State.

Protection

13 QDs ought to get you there.

Photos

Jon Banks
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Jon Banks   Denver, CO
  5.10b
With the challenging and somewhat high first bolt clip, this would not make a good lead for someone just getting into leading 10s in CCC. There are plenty of better options for that. Aug 13, 2016
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
Climbed it yesterday, and someone bailed off a quicklink halfway up the route. I tried to get it off, but it was on there pretty good. If someone wants to bring a wrench up there, that would be great. Also, I know it's been beaten to death, but please don't be the guy bailing off quicklinks, it's a pain in the ass for everyone else. Oct 2, 2015
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.10a
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.10a
I thought this was a fun, casual route. Moderate climbing with a couple spots that are easy 10ish and well protected. This would be a good route for someone breaking into the 10 range in CCC.

As others have said, yard on that rail below the first bolt at your own risk. That block of rock isn't always going to be there.

And, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a long or extended draw on the bolt just before you get to the roof. I didn't and found myself dealing with quite a bit of rope drag. Sep 30, 2012
kevin fox
parker
 
kevin fox   parker
 
I liked this route.... May 28, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
So-so climbing. Not bad, not great- just mileage. Aug 23, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Insecure, committing move past the 7th bolt and a difficult 8th clip. Don't blow the clip or you'll hit the flake you were standing on at the 7th bolt. At the upper overhang, it's easier to go around to the right than straight up.

There are 11 bolts on the route. Aug 4, 2006
TBD
5.10
TBD  
5.10
The good rail just below the first bolt is a tad hollow. Consider clipping the first bolt prior to cranking on this hold. Jul 4, 2006
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
 
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
 
As mentioned with the route to the right, The Decider also needs to clean up a tad. That should happen with traffic. You may want a long sling at the 8th bolt as you traverse left and then back right to the final roof. It has a two move crux and is not too demanding above or below that point. Not the same quality rock as the new routes to the left (BA & BG). Jul 1, 2006