Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Ken Trout - 1991
Page Views: 3,238 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

175 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


This route is located on the left hand side of 'Little Eiger'. The route is the 2nd bolted face from the leftmost side of the crag, located directly to the right of 'Bonehead'. Ths climbing can be eased by heading a little left and joining the crack at the 3rd bolt and then traversing back into the 4th/5th bolt. The moves between these bolts straight up will follow a small seam / pocket on dead vertical rock. Very enjoyable route with moves a little harder than they look from the ground up. Route ends at open cold shuts anchor. Be careful if toproping, but I think there is a bolt to back it up with.


6 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor with 2 links and 1 grooved, open hook (formerly only open hooks).


Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
Alan, Indeed a little easier going right at the 3rd bolt but not the grade and not as fun. No sense getting on the route if you don't do it how it was intended, and at 11b I would assume it was intended left. Oct 3, 2001
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Looks like there is some confusion of how this route goes now. Rhe original line was chopped and moved left (a couple of clips right above the juggy flake), the crack to the right was bolted, and the climb has several more bolts on it. I guess CH pulls straight up to the flake, and makes a few thin moves right (rounded sloper to sidepull...) and joins more or less the original route. Or hell, maybe this is its own line? I can't tell anymore there are too many bolts. At any rate, some one chalked an ".11A" at the start of whatever I am talking about. Fun, bolted, boulder problems. Jul 11, 2003
Edward Jenner
Edward Jenner  
I never climbed it previously, but the line seems fairly obvious now. Up, then traverse right a few feet, as Darren indicates, then follow the 'crack'. I put crack in quotes, because although the feature is crack-like, I certainly wouldn't want to be placing gear in it, and it is somewhat discontinuous. The guide also says 11a. In any case quite fun and a lot steeper than it looks from the ground. Also there are very good anchors at the top now. Jul 15, 2004
I have the 1999 edition of Rolofson's guide and it's topo for this area is out-of-date. I was hoping to find some clarification here, but I'm still confused. Based on the features in the topo, I think we climbed Bonehead, but there was another climb to the left which trended left near the arete. I think that must be a new route; it's doesn't seem to be in the topo. However, the guide also shows 5 bolts on Bonehead, but the route I did had six. The fourth bolt looks a little crowded, maybe like it was retro-bolted?

Does anyone know what's going on in this area? May 15, 2005
Patrick, take a look at the topo posted with the Headline route description, may clear things up. May 16, 2005
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
Pretty stout, some of it was very reachy, or I was doing it wrong. I did manage to get it with a couple falls. 11c for me. Jul 8, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Thin, balancy, solid 5.11.
But not a great route. Jul 12, 2006
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
It is very tempting to head right at the top, however, original line is the 10+ "slab" to the left of the giant flake. Crux is the traverse from 10a face (clips 1-3) to a misleading system of slopers (clips 4-6). Sweet lead. Aug 15, 2008
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
Maybe I was tired or did it wrong, but it felt pretty hard for 11a/b. I'd say more like 11c. Jul 17, 2009
Really sharp and uncomfortable holds. 11c. Sep 17, 2011
robbie s
robbie s   littleton
I thought it was a very tricky route using the sloper to get to the sidepulls, and very small feet... but it eases as you get closer to the top.... Had fun on it, felt like a solid 11.... Sep 24, 2012
Chris Ham
Chris Ham  
Will have to jump back on this. Great traversing movement through the crux on tiny feet and insecure hands, exactly what I wanted out of the route. A longer arm span certainly helps, but I don't think this thing moves harder than 11a. Sep 18, 2018