Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Ken Trout - 1991
Page Views: 2,991 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


168 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is located on the left hand side of 'Little Eiger'. The route is the 2nd bolted face from the leftmost side of the crag, located directly to the right of 'Bonehead'. Ths climbing can be eased by heading a little left and joining the crack at the 3rd bolt and then traversing back into the 4th/5th bolt. The moves between these bolts straight up will follow a small seam / pocket on dead vertical rock. Very enjoyable route with moves a little harder than they look from the ground up. Route ends at open cold shuts anchor. Be careful if toproping, but I think there is a bolt to back it up with.

Protection

6 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor with 2 links and 1 grooved, open hook (formerly only open hooks).

Photos

robbie s
littleton
robbie s   littleton
I thought it was a very tricky route using the sloper to get to the sidepulls, and very small feet... but it eases as you get closer to the top.... Had fun on it, felt like a solid 11.... Sep 24, 2012
Really sharp and uncomfortable holds. 11c. Sep 17, 2011
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11c
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11c
Maybe I was tired or did it wrong, but it felt pretty hard for 11a/b. I'd say more like 11c. Jul 17, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11b
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11b
It is very tempting to head right at the top, however, original line is the 10+ "slab" to the left of the giant flake. Crux is the traverse from 10a face (clips 1-3) to a misleading system of slopers (clips 4-6). Sweet lead. Aug 15, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Thin, balancy, solid 5.11.
But not a great route. Jul 12, 2006
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
Pretty stout, some of it was very reachy, or I was doing it wrong. I did manage to get it with a couple falls. 11c for me. Jul 8, 2006
TBD
TBD  
Patrick, take a look at the topo posted with the Headline route description, may clear things up. May 16, 2005
I have the 1999 edition of Rolofson's guide and it's topo for this area is out-of-date. I was hoping to find some clarification here, but I'm still confused. Based on the features in the topo, I think we climbed Bonehead, but there was another climb to the left which trended left near the arete. I think that must be a new route; it's doesn't seem to be in the topo. However, the guide also shows 5 bolts on Bonehead, but the route I did had six. The fourth bolt looks a little crowded, maybe like it was retro-bolted?

Does anyone know what's going on in this area? May 15, 2005
Edward Jenner
  5.11a
Edward Jenner  
  5.11a
I never climbed it previously, but the line seems fairly obvious now. Up, then traverse right a few feet, as Darren indicates, then follow the 'crack'. I put crack in quotes, because although the feature is crack-like, I certainly wouldn't want to be placing gear in it, and it is somewhat discontinuous. The guide also says 11a. In any case quite fun and a lot steeper than it looks from the ground. Also there are very good anchors at the top now. Jul 15, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Looks like there is some confusion of how this route goes now. Rhe original line was chopped and moved left (a couple of clips right above the juggy flake), the crack to the right was bolted, and the climb has several more bolts on it. I guess CH pulls straight up to the flake, and makes a few thin moves right (rounded sloper to sidepull...) and joins more or less the original route. Or hell, maybe this is its own line? I can't tell anymore there are too many bolts. At any rate, some one chalked an ".11A" at the start of whatever I am talking about. Fun, bolted, boulder problems. Jul 11, 2003
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
 
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
 
Alan, Indeed a little easier going right at the 3rd bolt but not the grade and not as fun. No sense getting on the route if you don't do it how it was intended, and at 11b I would assume it was intended left. Oct 3, 2001