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Routes in Little Eiger
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"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Decider, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free Up The Weed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Too! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 410 ft (124 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | John Bissel, Matt Esson, Steve LaPorta, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 8,784 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Too! is a very strange route, and quite out of place at Clear Creek. It contains 3 good pitches (out of 4) and some impressive exposure, but the everpresent lichen and loose rock subtract from this otherwise excellent climb.
P1. A multitude of first pitches are possible, but the best (and most in keeping with the difficulty of the rest of the climb) is the farthest right bolted pitch on the base of the formation. A few difficult slab moves at mid height provide the crux here, and a comfortable belay is reached after ~120 feet. 5.10d, 6 bolts.
P2. The second pitch is basically slabby grunge - 5.4X. Carefully work your way up to the obvious headwall, where you'll find a 2 bolt anchor after about 130 feet. 5.4, 1 bolt.
P3. The third pitch tackles this headwall and is arguably the best on the route, though only about 80 feet long. 5.11c, 10 bolts.
P4. The final pitch begins with a hairy traverse on fragile rock past a pin to a line of bolts heading up and right out a steep block. The first 50 feet are 5.10, and the final moves of 5.12 (which are very out of place for the route) can be easily aided. 5.12a, 10 bolts.
Descend by making 3 double-rope rappels, but exercise EXTREME CAUTION when pulling ropes, as there is loose rock in spades. Helmets highly recommended.
P1. A multitude of first pitches are possible, but the best (and most in keeping with the difficulty of the rest of the climb) is the farthest right bolted pitch on the base of the formation. A few difficult slab moves at mid height provide the crux here, and a comfortable belay is reached after ~120 feet. 5.10d, 6 bolts.
P2. The second pitch is basically slabby grunge - 5.4X. Carefully work your way up to the obvious headwall, where you'll find a 2 bolt anchor after about 130 feet. 5.4, 1 bolt.
P3. The third pitch tackles this headwall and is arguably the best on the route, though only about 80 feet long. 5.11c, 10 bolts.
P4. The final pitch begins with a hairy traverse on fragile rock past a pin to a line of bolts heading up and right out a steep block. The first 50 feet are 5.10, and the final moves of 5.12 (which are very out of place for the route) can be easily aided. 5.12a, 10 bolts.
Descend by making 3 double-rope rappels, but exercise EXTREME CAUTION when pulling ropes, as there is loose rock in spades. Helmets highly recommended.
Protection
15 quickdraws and 2 ropes are recommended, though creative rappelling might allow for a single rope descent. It is fully bolted.
Per Deredacted Young: as indicated above, P2 is 5.4X with only 1 bolt.
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