Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ken Trout, 1991
Page Views: 4,311 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This route is located to the left of 'Eiffel Tower'. This route is very straightforward with a sloping topout and tricky feet towards the 5th and 6th bolts. The first half of the route climbs through a vegetated crack and easy terrain. A great route, the only thing it lacks for this type of route is continuity, the difficult moves don't last very long, but are enjoyable.

Protection

9 bolts - open cold shuts anchor.

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Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "Headwall" area. <br> <br> After one of my kids took a huge fall on Bonehead and another guy at the crag told me he broke his ankle on it, I rebolted my old routes to make them more fun for family and friends.
Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "He…
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Below the upper crux.
Below the upper crux.
 0
Steve Thomas leading the Eiger Sanction.
Steve Thomas leading the Eiger Sanction.
 0
Starting up.
Starting up.
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15 Comments

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Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
This line lies just to the right of Trouthead 10c/d and just to the left of Eiffel Tower 10d; it is the 5th line in from the 'cave' on the left side of the crag. A great line with delicate face climbing a thin layback and a sloping topout. 2nd and 3rd clips seemed difficult, but overall the climb seemed well protected as long as you get the 2nd bolt clipped. A great 7-bolt line that offers a variety of climbing moves. I don't recall any vegetation on the route as the description states. Jun 27, 2002
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
This used to be an exciting lead for the grade. Now that bolts have been added to this route, the only thing that you have to worry about is Z-clipping. May 5, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I also would like to know what's up with the retrobolting on this route and others in the vicinity. The extra bolts on this climb seem for the most part unnecessary although the new finish is a good idea. Whoever it is, please don't redo the route to the right (Eiffel Tower) and consider removing the fourth bolt on Eiger Sanction May 5, 2003
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
  5.10d
Kyle Turner   Brighton, CO
  5.10d
Fun route with a challenging left handed pinch before the overhang for a .10 leader. Highly recomended.

KT Jul 29, 2004
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
  5.10d
Kyle Turner   Brighton, CO
  5.10d
opps wrong route, was talking about the first pitch of too.. Oct 29, 2004
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
Because "Trouthead" has been added, this route is no longer the next to the right of "Headline", but is directly right of "Trouthead".

As a sidenote, in case you are not aware, the name of the route was taken from a novel which was adapted into the best climbing movie of all time. I know; the body of climbing films does not constitute a rarified genre. However, this 1975 film, directed by and starring Clint Eastwood, comes highly recommended and contains some realistic climbing. You'll see some old-school hip belays and hexes, though. Sep 11, 2005
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
The 2nd bolt seemed a pretty spicy with ground fall possibilities. The 6th both gave me some issues. I could have approached it wrong, but after a number of tries I couldn't seem to clip it prior to committing to the set of thin moves (I'm 6'1" btw). I ended up taking a bad fall here slamming the wall with my hip. It was fun up until that point. Aug 17, 2008
Matt Bolt
Lakewood
  5.10d
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
  5.10d
Want to add some spice to this climb, do it in the rain. Just barely missed the on site today because it started raining about time I started smearing. Lots of fun though. Apr 26, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
  5.10d
There are now nine bolts not including the anchors. I absolutely loved this climb. Lots of thin balancy movement and some cool climbing on the flake before the crux. Jun 4, 2010
pat thompson
superior
pat thompson   superior
Technical climbing with a very thin finish. Thank goodness for the nylon jug at the exit slab moves. 11a anyone??? Jun 21, 2011
robbie s
littleton
robbie s   littleton
Great route, tricky climbing to get past the 2nd bolt, but thoughtful foot work is the key.... A shame there is so many unneeded bolts on it...but skipping bolts 3 and 5 make it exciting again.... I thought it to be harder than Eiffel Tower, for I got the onsight on Eiffel, and fell 2 times at the top of the Eiger Sanction...slopey feet /, and a hard to find crimp at the top... make it a stout onsight, but solid at the grade...10+. Sep 24, 2012
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.10d
Fun and tricky start for being 5'7" (6'2" partner made it look a lot easier). After that, pretty much non-stop fun (still hard though). Highly recommended if you are pushing into 10d lead. Nov 9, 2014
Grey Satterfield
Broomfield
  5.11a
Grey Satterfield   Broomfield
  5.11a
The final few sloping moves are very hard. Aug 3, 2016
Wes Farrar
DENVER, COLORADO
 
Wes Farrar   DENVER, COLORADO
 
Skip the third clip, it's more trouble than it's worth. Apr 27, 2017
Brendan Armesy
Fort Collins CO
Brendan Armesy   Fort Collins CO
I found it pretty fun. There's a missing bolt apparently which creates a tiny bit of runout. I was told of it before I started, and I didn't realize it was missing until I was rapping down. The crux is pretty wild. The crux for me was like those velcro games back in the day where you put on a velcro suit and run as a wall hoping to stick, except here I tried to flop my body over the lip hoping to find anything to grip on. Still! I recommend it! Jul 16, 2017