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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V7-8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10- 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright, 1996
Page Views: 5,365 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


This route is located to the left of 'First Impressions' and is a great little line. The climbing has great moves, from pulling over that little roof to balancy footwork towards the anchor. Enjoyable the whole way along. Don't go too far in the corner, clip the bolt, and then head over the arete as soon as you can to avoid weird body positions. Great protection on these moves and all others, like all the routes on the Little Eiger.

This route has recently had new anchors added to it, so it is no longer necessary to use the anchors at the top of First Impressions.

2.5 stars for sure, what a beauty....


11 bolts - 2 bolt anchor. Now, it has its own anchor.


I agree that you need to clip the bolt then work your way over the arete onto the face. Don't get suckered into the corner on the left or you won't be able to get onto the face very easily. Remember that this route shares anchors with "First Impressions" so be aware if you're leading & they're toproping. The last move to the anchor can be thin if you don't find the good holds to the left. Jun 25, 2002
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
I TR'ed it after leading First Impressions, but found that one can start coming over the arete to the right, i.e. clip the bolt, but then the feet are better to the left of the arete. Jun 18, 2003
There are two rap anchors (four bolts with chains or rings) in the same place for this and "First Impressions", so don't worry if someone's headed up the other route. Jun 28, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Maybe it's just too early in the season but this felt like a sandbag... Cool route. May 3, 2004
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
Kyle Turner   Brighton, CO
Fun route, has some good moves but starts a bit slabby. Agree going left early will make things interesting trying to clip the bolt on the otherside of the arete, makes for an interesting rock over. Jun 4, 2004
Kevin Neilson
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
On the topo above, the routes are: 7: Footloose (5.10a), 6: First Impressions (5.9), 5: Eiger Direct (5.11d), 4: Radometer in the Red Zone (5.11b/c), 3: Too! (pitch 1: 5.10d), 2: Nordwand (pitch 1: 5.10c), 1: Natural Selection (5.11a/b; long rope required). Sep 11, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
A good pitch, but it felt harder than 10a. I agree with Scott Conner's 10c rating. Sep 11, 2005
Matt Chan
Matt Chan   Denver
I would have to say that 10c is over doing it. An awkward 10a move back to the right, and that's about it. Grade creep. Sep 12, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Hey Matt, glad you found Footloose to be 10a; you're obviously a better climber than I am. I found it to be harder than Headline and Bush Administration and other Clear Creek 10a's that I've done. Grade creep? No; just a difference of opinion. Sep 12, 2005
I remember it feeling like 10a, then another time I crossed the diagonalling roof at a different spot and it felt harder. It really depends on where you decide to step over. I think finding little crystals for the right hand helps in groveling over the high foot. Really just 1-2 moves. Sep 15, 2005
I'd say easier than Cosmosis (10a) in Boulder Canyon, and easier than C'est La Vie (9+) in Eldo, WAY easier than After 6 (5.7) in Yosemite, and easier than Gorilla's Delight (9) in Boulder Canyon. Yeah, some of these are trad routes, but they're graded lower and seem harder. The moves alone seem harder, and there's more of them. Shouldn't we at least try to have similar grades for the Front Range, instead of having a different set of grades for Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, Eldorado, Rocky Mtn. etc. I will probably never climb harder than easy 11, but I have to find places with soft 11s to do them! i.e. Cear Creek! Sep 15, 2005
Nate Oakes  
First time I led this, I waited a bit before stepping over the arete, and it definitely felt harder than a CC 10a. Next time, I stepped over early and the grade felt a lot more accurate. Fun little crimpy pulls past that arete, kinda balancy. May 15, 2006
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
I added an anchor to Footloose, so it no longer shares an anchor with First Impresions. Oct 1, 2006
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
Anyone know the name of the route to the left of this route. I climbed it but can't find the name. I'll consult a guide book next chance I get. Jul 17, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO

The climb left of Footloose is Herbal Essence. Jul 17, 2007
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
Wow. Never been so sketched out on a 10a corner pull. This route humbles me. Aug 15, 2008
Alan Robertson
Denver, CO
Alan Robertson   Denver, CO
Totally agree with Jon's assessment of this route. Headline was a breeze compared to Footloose. Jun 27, 2009

I've done this route several times now and have never been really able to call it a decent route. Contrived climbing, crappy hardware, clipping crux. Pretty much everything you wouldn't find on a classic route. Aug 10, 2011
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
Nice little route. Can't see why anyone would call it a bomb (commenting on wrong route, perhaps?). The movement up to the crux is decent 5.8/9 climbing. The 10b/c crux will challenge your grip, balance, and technique all at once - it has humbled many a moderate climber (including myself). Enjoy! Jun 14, 2014

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