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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 2,986 total, 20/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on May 21, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Very sustained and quality climbing with multiple cruxes make Tierra Del Fuego one of the best 5.11s on The Little Eiger.

The route lies between Natural Selection and Bush Administration. Climb low-angle slab past two clips. The wall steepens at the third bolt. The next four clips are possibly the technical crux. Fire through and climb 5.10 above and then 5.9. The wall steepens again, climb past three bolts on sustained 5.11 to the anchor. Pump left past the last bolt and then crimp up and right to a final crimp under the anchor

The route might be a letter grade harder. I need a few climbers to get on it and confirm the rating. I rehearsed it while establishing so when I sent it I knew every move.

With the placement of the anchors on Tierra Del Fuego, it is now possible to get off Natural Selection and/or Bush Administration without complication for those with a 50-meter rope.

Gregg Purnell has added an extension that adds a bolt and ends at another anchor. This is 12 a/b.

Protection

11 bolts to the two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11
Got on this yesterday and really enjoyed it. It felt like straight .11 to me, but I only got one attempt in. Maybe it'll feel a little softer now that I know the crux sequence. Lookin' forward to giving the extension a shot too. May 16, 2013
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11b
Hey Darren, ya this is still a pretty reachy clip even for me from the jugs. I guess we could just add a few more links and drop it down for the shorties to clip, although you still would have to do the crimpy move in order to clip the other bolt. If it were up to me I would probably just move the whole anchor down and left two feet, and leave one of the current anchor bolts as the first bolt to the extension. Aug 19, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Shortly after Gregg installed his extension, I moved one of the anchor bolts to the left to be able to clip easier from the stance and moving it out of the fall line of the extension. Is it still difficult to clip? Would a longer chain help? Aug 7, 2012
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11b
Well I'll have to throw in my two cents here as well: I would agree that the finish of this route is contrived but not the entire line by any degree. The route actually felt very natural to me throughout the entire climb; it's when I got to the anchors that I felt forced to do 1 more hard move and stop in the middle of it to clip the chains.

To me, it seems more natural to clip the chains from the two jugs just below this move and then have the extension above that. Being 6', I'm actually able to do that with a stretch, and it definitely felt like the natural ending point for that section of climbing. Then the crimpy moves above naturally lead into the extension. As it is, I feel like I'm doing the first move on the extension just to clip the chains.

I would recommend moving the chains down a few feet, so you can clip from the jugs and then leave one of the current anchor bolts in for the extension above it.

And with all that being said, I thought it was a fun route and worth doing for sure. Aug 7, 2012
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b/c
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b/c
Yes, contrived. Because of the broken nature of the rock. It's not exactly straight up some slab, it's not exactly a steep, clean arete, it's not exactly a technical cross over then cross back on awkward, fun crimps 'n' edges...it's a mash of all that. Plus some crazy inconstancy in grade.

And it DOES wander around a little, this side of the bolts to that side of the bolts and back. AND the lower crux (THE crux?) apparently has beta left and right. (Or so says the chalk marks.)

Still. A very fun climb, well worth doing.

Which brings up two points. First, "contrived" here (or anywhere) need not mean a line unworthy of our attentions. It's definitely worth it. And two, for all of that: No line worth climbing needs defending. Ever. Jun 17, 2012
DBarton
CENTENNIAL, CO
  5.11c
DBarton   CENTENNIAL, CO
  5.11c
11c for sure, def much harder than an 11b. I have climbed this 2x now, and both times made me feel that this is harder than any other CC 11b. My 2 cents. (Lots of 2s in this post!) Apr 3, 2011
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
I felt like I was off-route on this one in several places. Maybe I still need to get used to the rock @ Clear Creek. The first bulge with sidepulls, etc, was really fun. Nov 7, 2010
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
One of the best 11s in Clear Creek? Gotta share that stuff you guys are smokin!.... What's with the last bolt before the first anchors, and the first anchors? It's like the climb is 10a with 11a clipping. Ugghh. Jul 25, 2009
Mikeco
Golden, CO
  5.11b
Mikeco   Golden, CO
  5.11b
After doing this a couple of times, I feel this is a fine, technically sustained route. I did do the 12a/b finish and found it very thin and thoughtful. I found the body positions I needed to use seemed really improbable, but then I found myself somehow sticking up there when I fully committed. It's not a pure strength crux, because it comes down to focus, determination, and technique, not just raw power. You have to stay very "quiet" on the holds to get them to work for you. Jun 5, 2008
kevin fox
parker
 
kevin fox   parker
 
Thor! another great route.... Enjoyed tremendously. Made it through the first crux. It's the second crux that I need to work on. Will go up on Saturday and see if I can redpoint it. I'm just breaking into the .11 rating. Having a great time with your routes. Can't wait to try Tsunami of Charisma. Did you ever end up taking out the first anchors? Jun 1, 2007
This climb was pretty fun. The good climbing outweighed the several rests/easy climbing interludes.

I was quite confused by the 12a extension...I was on the crimps at/below the anchors, but didn't see any other features for quite some time...and no chalk to help out a bad onsight-er like myself. I'd like to know where people went. Aug 5, 2006
The route is a classic of Clear Creek. It's one of the better 11s in the canyon. Thanks to Thor and Gregg for their work.. Aug 20, 2005
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Greg's extension above the anchors (12a) is spectacular. Fantastic thin moves and solid clean stone. Good eye. Aug 19, 2005
Thor, I really enjoyed the route. In fact, everytime I'm up there now I have to do it cause it's such a cool route. I really like the movement of the climb, sidepulls, gastons, crimps get you feet up lean sideways, almost too cool. I suggest leave your anchors and that way I don't have to do the last moves all the time, it's pretty damn hard. Thanks for the route and all the hard work you're doing... Jul 23, 2005
Thor Kieser  
 
I am compelled to defend Tierra Del Fuego. The route was [TR'd] first. I never felt it was contrived or forced. You climb [straight] up on steep rock through multiple cruxes. There is no wandering around to make it harder. The route is "in your face" [straight] up climbing. How is that contrived or forced? There are no broken ledges and the corners on the left do not help you avoid any cruxes. The last headwall climbs very nicely in my opinion, with a one digit pocket to a cross-over to a hard side -pull and a tricky clip of my last bolt.

I never felt that my last crimpy move was the crux. For me, the crux is at the final bolt where you start to move left. I feel the first crux is at least equal to the last.

The anchors were place where they are because I felt that the next section climbed too close to Bush Administration and became squeezed with Natural Selection as well. Bush Administration trends left at the top and Natural Selection moves right at its top.

Now that the last ten feet have been established, I feel that I should have gone ahead and installed it the first time. Believe me, I thought about it but decided not to squeeze it in.

So, now we have a climb with two 5.11 cruxes and a 5.12 crux and every crux has interesting and pumpy or delicate moves. Name another route on The Little Eiger equal to that! My compliments to Greg Purnell for his contribution. The additional 10 feet are super crimpy but very cool!

Now I will take down the original anchor and let the route become 12a/b. I leave it to Greg to rate his addition.

I have climbed many other routes in Clear Creek, and I'd say that at least 2/3rds of the routes I have climbed are less fun and more broken-up than Tierra Del Fuego (routes on High Wire for example). It's my opinion, and I'm sure others will disagree with me.

I still give Tierra Del Fuego three stars. You guys don't have to like it.

Thor Jul 23, 2005
Thought this route seemed forced. Didn't seem like a very natural line. I think the rating is probably right, but the crux move to the anchors was what put it there. I haven't tried what Greg posted, but the moves I did seemed to be there just to get the rating up. Jul 21, 2005
gregg purnell
Rifle, CO
gregg purnell   Rifle, CO
It's exactly 60 meters total. Jul 21, 2005
gregg purnell
Rifle, CO
gregg purnell   Rifle, CO
Now you can either finish the original route and call if 11b or you can now climb another 10 ft of crimpers with 1 bolt and lower off another set of anchors to make the climb 12a/b. Jul 21, 2005
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I think 11b may be accurate. It's just about my limit and it spit me off pretty well. I hoped that the middle crux was the end of the hard climbing. However, clipping the chains proved over my head. I had WAY too much pump for the mental step it took. Good route though. Jul 13, 2005
TBD
5.11b
TBD  
5.11b
11b sounds about right. The lower crux still needs to clean up a bit, a bit o' lichen. I think the real crux is clipping the anchors. Jun 11, 2005