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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V7-8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V9 7C
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 3,915 total · 23/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Oct 5, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

171 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Thanks to Scott Bilyeu for all the help with cleaning. We must have brought down a ton of crap rock in the first 15 feet of the climb.

Start in the corner to the right of Busch Gardens, and then climb steep, fractured rock past three bolts. At the fifth bolt, undercling and step right onto the face, note the mystery vintage '60s piton (Layton Kor and company?) in the undercling (Sick!). Cruise up to the base of the headwall and climb past four bolts on overhanging face, use the arete to finish.

The anchor is equiped with steel biners for your lowering pleasure. Please be careful in the first corner as there still may be dangerous blocks, belay well off to the left side.


12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor equiped with steel carabiners.


The climbing is thoughtful and continuous, but the rock is either chossy or dirty. This one will take a long time to clean up, if ever. Jun 11, 2005
Kim Melnick  
This route was scary. It was all choss. I was not impressed. When I thought I finally got onto safe rock, I got to the "anchors", which are both placed in a big loose boulder. This seems like an accident waiting to happen. Jul 21, 2005
Unbelievably bad. Waste of time, and hangers, for that matter. Kinda lures the unwary into a bad place.

But hey. It's a free country still.....right?

Maybe it's "all good, bra." Jul 21, 2005
Gary Apostolou
Gary Apostolou  
The anchors seemed solid enough, but then again I did not investigate it that much. Scary? Not really it's bolted where it needs to be. My only problem with it is the last bolt is stupid. It's fairly obvious to turn the corner at the arete and run up to the anchors that way skipping the last bolt. Run out? Maybe, but we are talking 5.6. Jul 22, 2005
Thor Kieser
Thor Kieser  
Ok - I will close the route. Hangers and anchors will be removed today. Later when I get time bolt holes will be grouted over. Jul 23, 2005
I climbed this route maybe 5 or 6 weeks ago and think that enough has been said to warn the wary. I always figure new routes will be a little loose (and so are old routes and mountain's just part of being outdoors). If you don't like some bolts, just skip 'em. If the anchor bothers you, burn a few biners and rap off the next few down. The bolts are already in, and I think it's nice to be able to spread out the climbers. Time will sort out the better routes, so I'd say leave it alone if you haven't already taken direct action. Jul 30, 2005
Climbed Naked Hedge on 8-14-05. Bolts and anchors still in place. GOOD! Not sure what all the complaining is about here, but people must be smoking crack. There is nothing wrong with that route at all! If you don't use the big, blocky flakes on the right of the first 30 feet, the climbing is excellent through this section. The arete section is somewhat contrived, in that you have to avoid obvious left stems to keep the difficulty level up. The holds are a little sandy down low, but there is no loose rock. I didn't inspect the anchor boulder. If there is a true problem with the anchor security, then move it higher onto better rock, but there is no good reason to close this route. Not the best of the new ones, but worth a star. Aug 15, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The route has cleaned up OK after 1 year+ of existence. No big deal for loose rock. Yes- it was obvious to go up around the arete. After doing that I went back down and forced it to the left so it was "steep" and "slopey" but whatever. The route is probably 10c if you climb the arete to the left side but don't use the left wall behind you, which is the only loose part.
The bolt-count was a little odd- I found myself skipping 1/2 of the tightly spaced ones that were pretty hard to clip or just plain unnecessary.
Busch Gardens and Bush Administration are better routes. Jul 12, 2006
I moved the anchors down and right to solid rock and moved the last bolt to the arete. This should satisfy those who were concerned.

Thor Oct 10, 2006
Kevin Fox
Kevin Fox   parker
Did this route yesterday and thought it was good. When I moved to the third bolt, it looked like everyone was moving to the right. What I thought was the crux. I'm impressed with the routes that Thor has been putting up. I personally have never set a route, soo kudos to Thor. Thanks again. May 28, 2007
RE: loose rock on this route - I did not find any significant amount today. A few loose ones, obviously not holds, about the size of a deck of playing cards. The rock in the first 30' or so looks unreliable, but I'm a fairly heavy guy and couldn't get anything to move on me, so game on. The anchors currently in place are solid. I had trouble rappelling the route and cleaning it simultaneously - the overhanging face puts you out from the rock, and the line wanders a bit. Thanks to Kor for putting up and cleaning a fun route. Jun 19, 2008
Not a bad route. Rocks a little loose off the get, but the moves at the end make it worthwhile--the overhanging face is fun. Not every route can draw max stars... you're at Eiger... enjoy. Or go get roasted during the summer days on the Red Slab. Jul 3, 2008
Greg D
Greg D   Here
Interesting how the route submitter noticed the pin, yet claims a first ascent. Pin must have grown there as a result of a seed blown in from another route I guess. May 26, 2009

Happens quite frequently, particularly in areas where "herbicide" is frowned upon.... May 27, 2009
Paul Williams
Paul Williams   Bozeman
I really liked this route. The exposure makes it exciting and committing to the arete was fun. I'd give this a much higher rating than what is posted here. No issues with loose rock or dirt - but then its been raining every day for about 2 months... Jun 14, 2009
Kor placed this pin in the sixties on his way up the corner to the left. Since my route does not go into the corner, it's still a first ascent except for maybe ten feet of climbing low down.... Jul 9, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
An odd climb, but certainly not the pariah some make it out to be. Some choss down below, sure. But the exit moves over that orange, overhanging face are delicious, even if the bolts are placed funky.

Don't listen to them, Thor. Yer doin' dog's work.

And the dog tags aren't "cute"; they're a cool way to mark off a crowded wall. Wish more sport areas would adopt this practice.... Aug 26, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
I feel like the issue with this line is that the little headwall at the top looks so amazing, but the path of least resistance skirts around it -- the first half is avoided via the ledges on the left and the second half avoided by moving out onto the arete. The coolest part was the traverse from the big ledge across the face to the huge jug on the arete. Doesn't seem like anything the bolter could do about it though. Definitely a line worth climbing -- at least once anyhow. May 6, 2011
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
I really enjoyed this route. It must've been cleaned up a lot since it was first opened. Perhaps it's one of the routes cleaned up this summer when the canyon was closed?

Down low there are definitely some inviting holds that don't appear all that reliable, but there was solid rock there for the moves. Higher up, I thought the climbing was great.

The upper dihedral felt more dynamic than the lower section, but that may've been due to the fact that I was getting pumped and moving out of desperation as much as anything else. Sep 15, 2012
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
After reading the comments on for this climb, I felt compelled to throw in my lot with some of the more recent comments about the routes condition. There is a little bit of loose rock on this route but not too much. The bigger problem is rock that is slightly fractured or otherwise less than stable. Most of those blocks feel secure at least for now, but it is best to tread lightly through the opening series. It's easy to imagine the overwhelming quantity of loose rock that must have existed on this route when it was first opened.

As for the climbing, the movement is extremely fun, interesting throughout, and I thought it was one of the more enjoyable routes at the wall. Maybe not quite on the level of Eiger Direct but better than most. The consistent size of the holds, however, made this one a give-away at mid-10. I would encourage people to give this route a try, but be sure to have your belayer stand under the starting overhang of the green zone (or at least off to the right somewhat) to avoid any rock that might come down. Jun 28, 2013
Golden, CO
Russ   Golden, CO
Great route, very varied climbing. Didn't run into any loose rocks this weekend. Beautiful heel hook on the arete before the last clip. Sep 4, 2018

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