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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 4,348 total, 31/month
Shared By: T. Kieser on Jun 4, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Travis Trigg and I worked hard last week to get Tsunami of Charisma established. We deserve equal credit for the route. This one is destined to become a Little Eiger classic!

There is a dog tag on a hangerless bolt, with route name, grade and length at the base of the climb. Tsunami of Charisma really is a full 35 meters!

Temporarily, the second from the last climb to the right (west). Place a longer draw on the first bolt to avoid drag. Flash pump out the big roof 5.11, it's not as chossy as it looks. Cruise up easy face to a small overhang. Gain a thin friction slab and crimp past five clips 10d/11a, continue on steep rock to the anchor 5.9+. In the 5.9 section there is one block I am a little concerned about. We marked it with an "X" of chalk and will try again soon to get it to go! For now, take care not to use it.

Protection

Approximately 16 QDs.

Photos

IClimbStuff Braun  
  5.11b
Not sure why this route doesn't see more action, it's my favorite route in all of CCC. I can only imagine that people are scared off by the imposing beginning clips?

If you're nervous about the start, use a stick clip.

(BETA WARNING!) If you find the undercling at the top of the inner-most portion of the cave before you go over the lip, you'll be fine. Sep 13, 2017
Luke Childers
  5.11b
Luke Childers  
  5.11b
Powerful and desperate! Awesome slab issue. Movement is excellent with well rounded stylistic channleges. Should be done. Jul 9, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11b/c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11b/c
The upper slab is much harder than the roof start. It's hard to compare the two though as the upper crux is thin slab climbing while the initial overhang is physical and takes a lot of strength. Clipping the second bolt is not too bad if you brace your left shoulder on the flake and stem out right. It helps to be small to do this. Jun 24, 2011
Kirsten KDog
  5.11b/c
Kirsten KDog  
  5.11b/c
Nice long route. 2 distinct cruxes for me: the initial burly roof to start and the slab mid-way up. The slab part felt hard....maybe even 11+?? But this was also the 1st time I'd ever been on the route. Fun little roof pull 3/4 way up and mostly moderate climbing besides the cruxes. Our 70 just got us down, rope drag kinda sucks but it's a good route nonetheless. Jul 16, 2010
Thor.K  
Somone keeps stealing the dog tag on Tsunami and on Tierra Del Fuego?

Pretty weird, but I guess people will steal whatever is not tied down. Maybe they have a dog named "Tsunami of Chrisma" and "Tierra Del Fuego". (Laughing out loud)! - Thor Apr 1, 2010
Niccole
Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
Niccole   Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
I really liked this route, short people can sit under the overhang and get both feet on the right wall to stand and stem out. (This is how I did it). Jul 18, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Excellent route and great vision! Better than Natural Selection. can clip second bolt from trick kneebar. upper slab moves are fantastic. Jul 20, 2007
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
5.11c
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
5.11c
Start and slab felt a little stiff for CCC 11a/b. Once the ledges directly above the overhang clean up, this should be a really fun route! Aug 14, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.11b
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.11b
Thanks for the TR! That's a fun start. Slab felt stiff at 11-, but I'm not a slab master. Thanks for these fun route additions on the right side of Little Eiger! Addendum: went back & did the slab, starting to the right, which seemed a bit easier. Jul 20, 2006
T. Kieser  
 
A few words of safety beta:

The first bolt is placed far to the right to minimize rope drag. However, a fall on the first bolt will spin and slam you against the right wall as the climb starts well left. To avoid getting abused and or flipped you should climb with your rope over your right arm/shoulder. This will give you a clean fall with no risk of a spin or flip. The other option is to stick clip the second bolt, but then you will not have actually led the crux. I discovered this by falling on the first bolt several times and stopping upside down with my head about a foot over the ground. Once I placed the rope over my shoulder, the fall was much safer.

Thor Jun 14, 2006