Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 9,682 total · 53/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Jul 8, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Even Teri Schaivo would appreciate the quality of this classic corner!

On the Little Eiger there is a distinctive open book that divides the face in half. I have wondered for years why such an obvious line had never been bolted. When I arrived near the top of the corner, I was surprised to discover some old rusty coldshut anchors. Someone inteneded to put the route up in the early eighties but never did, perhaps Tod Anderson? I drilled new anchors for "The Green Zone" nearby and after that climb was in, took a TR lap up the corner and found it to be yet another CC classic. The bottom was dirty and loose, so I cleaned it (still a bit dirty).

Start on the outside of a small arete right of "The Green Zone", follow five bolts to the base of the corner, fire up the corner past 9 clips to The Green Zone anchors. PVS a fun sustained pitch!

This climb is difficult to clean QDs from, as it drifts left for 20' in 95' (now 115' with the new anchors) of climbing. There is a chain and steel biner on bolt 4 to help prevent a huge and dangerous swing while cleaning. Please be careful taking your QDs off this route! You need a 70-meter rope but can get away with a 60m with complications (rap from bolt 4).

Protection

15 quickdraws plus something for the 2 bolt, vertically-oriented anchors.

Photos