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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 104 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 2,503 total, 18/month
Shared By: T. Kieser on May 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is another classic "Bushism". Don't misunderestimate this route! Fire a roof in the first 30 feet, kick back on easy ground until you reach a steep corner. Stem straight up and step out to the left at a blot. Steep ground leads to a thin tricky face. Climb into a left-facing corner then out over right to the anchor.

Location

This route is to the right of The Decider and left of Tsunami of Charisma. There is a dog tag on the first bolt with the route name and rating.

Protection

11 (now 14) QDs to the anchor so take 13 (now 16) total.

Photos

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Jason Platt  
 
It's 14 bolts plus something for the anchors. Pretty sustained but not too bad. Two fun roofs with some tricky slab at the end. Grade seems very fair. Jul 27, 2015
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
So what's the proper bolt count? Apr 23, 2012
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
The climbing on this is quite good; varied, interesting, multiple cruxy parts. Some of the bolt locations are awkward, though, sometimes causing the biners to be loaded over edges, despite what size of draw you use. Near the top, there is a small roof, and at this location the bolt causes the rope to run directly over a sharp edge with a sharp point. I tried various combos of quickdraw lengths above and below the roof, but wasn't really able to mitigate the problem. I would definitely recommend NOT falling here, as the tensioned rope could possible get cut. Would be better if the bolt above the roof was relocated to the right a foot or two.

Also, as noted above - the bolt count is off, bring more draws. Jun 10, 2011
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
 
I'm confused about this route, I took 12 draws and ran out before the anchor so I traversed over to the anchors on "The Decider". Did I miss the anchors or have bolts been added? Jul 12, 2009
desertrunner
Denver
desertrunner   Denver
This climb stumps me? Thanks for the thoughtful line. Jul 1, 2008
Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
I think this and Persistent Vegetative State are some of the best routes on the Little Eiger. Nice job, Thor. Jul 30, 2007
kevin fox
parker
 
kevin fox   parker
 
Another great route that Thor has put up. Drove up yesterday from Highlands Ranch and was rained off but not until I had a chance to climb this route. Keep putting them up, Thor!!! and if you need a rope for jugging let me know. Have a few in the basement that are taking up space. May 24, 2007
TBD
5.10
TBD  
5.10
Fun climbing with a few crux sections. There are a few hollow sounding jugs, so crank lightly. Jul 4, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10b/c
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10b/c
This is an interesting route that is still cleaning up a bit. A long sling on the 9th (?) bolt above the roof might be better clipped with a long sling (24"?) to keep it from pinning the rope at the lip and focusing the shockload should you fall there. Save some gas for the upper bits. Thanks for all the hard work here, Thor! Jun 2, 2006
T. Kieser  
 
I forgot to mention that someone vandalized my fixed static rope while it was hanging on this route. This person sliced about thirty feet off the bottom of the rope near the ground. If it was you please let me know what the f*ck your agenda is?

Thor May 26, 2006