Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, Ken Trout, April 1991.
Page Views: 3,127 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

122 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


The is the last bolted route to the east before the cave with the overhanging faces. The cave has a fixed sling/rap ring anchor above a thin crack. To the right, a few feet right of the arete marks the start of this route.

There are a few delicate moves that will test your footwork and balance. Figure out the crux before the last bolt to get the onsight before the pump sets in. The bolt that protects the crux is below your feet by the time you can get to a stance to clip the next one at the lip. A second mini-crux comes in manteling the lip.


5 draws (maybe more now) to a 2 bolt anchor with funky tow-truck-like snaps (formerly a double hook anchor).


robbie s
robbie s   littleton
I loved this route, it felt cruxy till the top. It was very hard to onsight, but I just barely got it... for sure felt hard for 10c... but that's just how it goes with onsights.... Solid for the grade, and deserving of 2 stars.... Sep 24, 2012
Not too hard until you get to the 2nd to last bolt. Took 3-4 lead falls at crux and still couldn't do the move, had to step in a sling to clip last bolt. Felt at least 11a to me. Even on TR I couldn't do the move without a hang. Sep 17, 2011
pat thompson
pat thompson   superior
Hard for 10c. I thought the climbing was very technical and not at all straight forward. Still good technical climbing, though. Jun 21, 2011
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Who was the "bonehead" who thought this contrivance up? (Muahahahaha...)

I ventured two stars for this oddity. It's not GOOD good climbing. But it's sure a quality good test piece for any climber who didn't remember to pack their rubber spine.

And yes, it actually IS super-juggy...or rather it WOULD be were gravity to pull 40 degrees off of vertical. Has legions of weird, super great ladder rungs that the universe thought would be funny were they strung together in a running slash, all well off the horizontal plane.

And they still might have been good side-pull jugs, except that the perfect stance for hands becomes a nightmare for feet (OR, great feet climbing insures that your hands will be groping at anti-gravity slopers).

Anyways, I project at 11C and STILL can't get this nasty one clean....

Jump on, have some fun, and invent rock'll need it. Aug 24, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
This felt like a legit 11a to me (I've been on it 2 or 3 times the last few weeks). I would, however, only give it one star as well. Maybe one and a half. Nov 17, 2007
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
Did Bonehead on Junes 17, 2006 and counted 8 bolts. I would say it's only slightly easier than Conehead. Jun 17, 2006
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
See the discussion and topo under Headline to understand this part of the cliff. Jun 25, 2005
I just put a comment on Conehead describing my confusion on these two routes (read it for details). Basically, I think a new route has been put between Bonehead and the arete, so it is no longer the farthest left before the cave and overhanging routes. Can anyone provide clarification? May 15, 2005
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
Juggy it is not. There is a huge flake hold before the 3rd bolt but above that there is nothing but sidepulls. No onsight here, after clipping the 4th I came off before in reach of the 5th. Nice rest before committing up towards the 4th, difficult, awkward clip and then it seems it's up or off. I couldn't see any good stances for either the 4th or 5th bolts. All semi-positive, side pulls that grease up quickly with tenuous feet! A difficult climb that requires balance and forearms! I'd probably be inclined to give it more stars if it hadn't slapped me around like it did; right now I don't even recognize the one! Eiger Sanction seemed easier at 10d. The crux on Bonehead seems to be a pretty stout 10c as Rolofson gives it. Jun 27, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
Definitely not a straightforward, jug haul. Your body will indeed be in many different positions, making clipping sometimes a little tricky. I don't give this route any more than 1 star, didn't enjoy it as much as many, if not all of the other routes on this wall (except the routes around the corner to the left of this route, desperate!). Oct 2, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Bring it on Wehner!!!

IMHO, I didn't consider this a very juggy climb at all. Moving up on the sidepulls while getting your body position correct was the theme of the climb. Sep 10, 2001
One star?!? One star?!?! This is a travesty of a miscarriage of justice! Mottinger and Komarnitsky will pay for this grievous transgression!

Anyway, uh, I think it should get 2 stars. Yeah, I really like this route. Big jugs and positive edges everywhere. Superbueno. Sep 10, 2001