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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 5,882 total, 36/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Aug 27, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is an excellent addition to the Little Eiger. The route received several ascents on its opening day and eveyone really liked it. The route is 35 meters in length and very sustained.

You can climb Bush Administration with a 60 meter rope and stretch will get a climber within 10 feet of the ground. A small amount of easy down climbing will be required. Belayers should tie a knot in the end of the rope to avoid accidents. Using a 70 meter rope eliminates any problems.

I had to do a lot of gardening and scrubbing, hence the name. Hopefully we can all forget about "The Bush Administration" soon.

Tall people will find the route to be 5.10b and shorter folks may give it a 10d rating. Enjoy....

Protection

Eleven clips to a two bolt anchor. 2 ropes or 70m rope.
S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
My partner and I are both around 5'6". We would rate this climb a stellar, solid 5.10. Putting draws into the bolt hangers were for the most part quite reachy. Our first (and warm-up) climb in CO. What a start! Best route of our first day here, and we only did 3-star and 4-star routes. Aug 28, 2017
My favorite climb yet! It was awesome! Aug 31, 2015
Luke Childers
  5.10c
Luke Childers  
  5.10c
Maybe one of the best 10s in the canyon. Not sure why it took me so long to get to this one! If you haven't done it... act promptly. Was great in the afternoon of July 8th. Like gold!! Jul 9, 2013
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.10b
Bottom section is decent. Top section is classic! Sustained but with just enough rest stances. A bit runout down low, but the cruxy section is well protected.
All of the rock on the climbing line felt solid, but stand out of the way when pulling the rope - both ropes that I saw pulled from the anchors today had rocks come with them. Jul 5, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.10c
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.10c
Long, sustained, airy, all around badass route. 10c sounds fair. It could 10b depending on height. Jun 22, 2009
Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.10b PG13
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.10b PG13
I repeat this climb almost everytime I come to the Little Eiger. Great climbing, great warm up, my rating for this climb is a 5.10b. Oct 15, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
  5.10
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
  5.10
A super-nice line, on some of the best rock in the canyon. Sustained in difficulty and quality.Grade seemed right at mid 5.10, and bolt placement was adequate. The anchors allow rappel access to place a directional at the top of Tierra Del Fuego, for a nice burn session next door. Aug 31, 2008
raise
  5.10c
raise  
  5.10c
Maybe I was just wiped from climbing all day, but I struggled a bit on this compared to the Busch Garden route which I breezed up. Both are excellent routes. Def more sustained on the Bush Admin. Jun 19, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Second best route in the immediate area. Second only to the Busch Garden route. Pumpy because it climbs as if it is steep. Jul 12, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
One of the better warm ups at the crag. Nice consistent, fun climbing. Great route finding. Sep 15, 2005
Another really nice route - thanks for putting it up. Both this and Busch Gardens have nice face climbing on orange crystal like rock. Could be the best 10s on the crag. Jul 18, 2005
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
  5.10c
Kyle Turner   Brighton, CO
  5.10c
Great route, very sustained., thanks for the development, Eiger is one of my favorites in CCC. Quick piece of beta, the mini roof about 3/4 the way up can be some what simplified if you move right a bit. Took me a couple of tries to figure it out. Really like the spacing of the bolts, far enough a part to keep it spicy, close enough to be safe.

KT Jul 14, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
A great pitch; thoughtful, sustained climbing from bottom to top; the finest route I've done in Clear Creek Canyon.

There are 12 bolts on the route.

It is easy to find, as it starts at the top of the approach trail, and has a blue tag attached to the first bolt ("Bush Administration, 5.10"). Ten feet to the right is another route with a blue tag on the first bolt ("Busch Gardens, 5.10").

It's a pleasure climbing in Clear Creek Canyon without all the traffic noise! Jul 5, 2005
TBD
  5.10-
TBD  
  5.10-
My opinion, the best route of its grade at Little Eiger, possibly the whole canyon. Fabulous sustained climbing, several "crux" moves. It is thoughtfully bolted, all cruxes are protected, but with a few moves above bolts, and it is long/sustained. The last section was definitely worth requiring a longer rope. It has cleaned up to be on the easier side of 5.10, Busch Gardens is a tad more difficult. May 16, 2005
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10c
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10c
Be aware of lose rock on all new routes in the canyon. My partner was top roping the route when several fist sized rocks were sent down. She was somewhere near the second or third bolt. A helmet for the belayer could be vital until these new routes are climb and cleaned up through traffic. Overall, good long sustained 5.8-5.10 route. Oct 23, 2004
Nice new line. Crux makes you think a little but not too hard for us short people. I'd call it 10a. Sep 10, 2004
Nice Route. Felt 10 a-b to me and I'm not all that tall. For what it's worth, I would have made it 60m, the top 5m didn't add a whole lot to the climb for me. Thanks to the guy with the drill though, it's nice to have something new to do on the Eiger, I was getting bored with the same old stuff. Sep 10, 2004
ac
ac  
Maybe I climbed it too soon after it was drilled, but there was an empty bolt hole where the last bolt was supposed to go when I did it. I clove hitched a QD into the fixed rope that was still hanging there and finished without incident. Some guys at the base said it was finished, despite the presence of the fixed rope. Has this bolt now been placed, or was it considered unnecessary? They did tell me it was a long route though, so I trailed another rope. I guess I'll just start taking the doubles for Clear Creek sport routes too now. Oh, great route by the way. Not overbolted, but safe. I saw another going in yesterday to the right of it. We need some more good lines on that rock. Sep 2, 2004
Has anyone ever noticed that lots of hard routes have a crux that involve a right hand gaston? Just a question. Question is ac one person who really dosen't like my words of wisdom, or is it a whole gang like the bloods? Sep 1, 2004
Ahem.

This is a climbing web site folks. Please leave politics out of it.

Thank you for your attention. Sep 1, 2004
ac
ac  
Micah, who is lying to whom? The corporate driven war in Iraq is a one of the worst told lies in United States history. I wish I could individually apologize to every soldier in Iraq for voting for W. - it won't happen again. Sep 1, 2004
Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
Paul, the question of route vs. rope length is not new -- think back to rope length progression of 45, 50, 55, and 60 meters. It is interesting that you question this route, yet say nothing of Natural Selection nearby, which if done with one rope probably requires an 85 meter cord.

Other long routes in CCC include Get a Job & Job Review at Highlander (80-85 meter rope), Leftover Stuff at Wall of the 90s (65-70 meter rope), and Hot Stuff at Wall of the 90's (80 meter rope). Many of us learned long ago to bring two ropes to descend long pitches.

I applaud the trend towards longer pitches if rock allows it. Aug 31, 2004
Thor Kieser  
 
The reason we have a 35 meter route is because the climbing is good all the way to the top! I will hang a dog tag on the first bolt today so all will know its [length]. - Thor Aug 31, 2004
Great route! Climbed it with Thor the day he finished it. Fairly sustained climbing with one distinct crux (at least for me). I'm tall and mid 10 felt about right. Subsequent ascents will probably find ways to cheat through some of the mini cruxes. A fine addition to Little Eiger.

The route is longer than most on Little Eiger (this is a good thing!). If the wall allows longer routes, why not go for it? Aug 30, 2004
TBD
  5.10-
TBD  
  5.10-
2 ropes are another option, and not a unique requirement in CCC. Aug 30, 2004