Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 4,850 total · 26/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Jun 28, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

You are not in The Green Zone in Baghdad but you may feel you have been in a fire fight after you climb this one. The right side of the Eiger continues to yeild excellent long routes. The Green Zone is a monster sport route, take 18 draws! Start 15 feet right of "The Naked Hedge" in a surf curl.

Crank past four bolts through the overhang, pump over the lip and then friction past two more bolts, 5.10c/d. The climb eases for two clips up to the small corner. Delicate and steep moves up the corner on 5.10 will get you to the 5.11a crux. Power through the steep tricky face, 95 degrees, past two bolts and then fire for a hidden jug over the lip. Continue to the top on 5.9+. A 60 meter rope [will not get you down, even with rope stretch]. We used a 70 and had 12 feet of extra rope laying on the ground.

Mike Bronson contributed much to this effort by finding the most creative path through the first crux. The start was dirty and loose. Mike sent a 60 pounder to the shoulder of US 6. The climb cleaned up nicely and with a few ascents the lichen will go. I scrubbed for hours already, so don't complain too much if you do the second ascent.

Protection

16 bolts plus a two bolt anchor!

Photos