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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 3,358 total, 22/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Jun 28, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

You are not in The Green Zone in Baghdad but you may feel you have been in a fire fight after you climb this one. The right side of the Eiger continues to yeild excellent long routes. The Green Zone is a monster sport route, take 18 draws! Start 15 feet right of "The Naked Hedge" in a surf curl.

Crank past four bolts through the overhang, pump over the lip and then friction past two more bolts, 5.10c/d. The climb eases for two clips up to the small corner. Delicate and steep moves up the corner on 5.10 will get you to the 5.11a crux. Power through the steep tricky face, 95 degrees, past two bolts and then fire for a hidden jug over the lip. Continue to the top on 5.9+. A 60 meter rope [will not get you down, even with rope stretch]. We used a 70 and had 12 feet of extra rope laying on the ground.

Mike Bronson contributed much to this effort by finding the most creative path through the first crux. The start was dirty and loose. Mike sent a 60 pounder to the shoulder of US 6. The climb cleaned up nicely and with a few ascents the lichen will go. I scrubbed for hours already, so don't complain too much if you do the second ascent.

Protection

16 bolts plus a two bolt anchor!
Luke Childers
  5.11b
Luke Childers  
  5.11b
Engaging... love where the jug is located round the top of the headwall! Great movement all around! Very solid. The bottom low overhanging face was fun as well! Bravo! Jul 9, 2013
robbie s
littleton
robbie s   littleton
I got the onsight the other day on this route, awesome climb, and feels solid at the 11 grade... A heel hook plus a high step were key to saving energy going into the crux for me.... I didn't put long draws on the bottom bolts... but felt the drag for sure..., Fun climb.... Sep 24, 2012
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a
What Thor said. Bring extenders for the 2nd and 3rd bolts, otherwise you'll be fighting drag at the crucial, 11a moment. While you're at it, skip bolt #5 (the one AFTER the heinous roof) for the same reason. #6 is very close at hand, and it's only a handful of 5.7 moves to get there.

For that matter, skip the first bolt--it's about useless and makes for horrendous drag. If you're leading 11a, then moving through the 5.8 sequence to hit the second bolt should be no prob. Besides, clipping the first bolt means you belayer is either a) too close under the roof (to avoid being pulled laterally) to watch the leader effectively, or else s/he gets yanked off their feet because s/he's leaning way back to watch when you pop at the crux.

The opening roof movements, by the way, are 10 meters of pure joy. For extra spice points: DON'T clip the THANKGOD fourth bolt until you get both mitts up and your right, INSIDE leg heel hookin' on the jug. Let the left leg fly for style points, and harvest your well-earned OOOhhhhss and AAAaahhhhhsss....

Oh. And? My first ever, 11a onsight. Yea, me. (Anybody else suspect this might only be a double crux 10d in disguise? It'd be my first ever 11 onsite, so just checkin'.)

Last hint: don't go plunging for the huge jugs above the crux if'n it's just rained. Go for tips or one-knuckle deep instead, lest you want to go swimming.... Aug 27, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
You can also go with the bolt at your right shoulder in an interesting opposition and stem sequence that is probably a little harder that to the right.
Decent line that is quite long and draws its merit from that, mostly. These 35m lines are always a plus, from my perspective, as I like long pitches.
The line and bolts wander around a little, so a rack of slings and draws were handy to have- various lengths placed allowed me to have a more or less straight rope and virtually no drag the whole way. Aug 23, 2006
Gauging from the amount of chalk lots of people are climbing around the crux to the left in an easy crack. The route goes right of the clip at the lip on thin pumpy overhanging face. If you go left to the crack, you have not done the route as originally intended.

Thor May 26, 2006
TBD
  5.11a
TBD  
  5.11a
Quite good.

I think it's easiest to skip the first bolt (a spot is more than sufficient to protect the one thin move before jugs) and just bump one quick draw up the 2nd, 3rd, and leave it at the 4th. Sep 11, 2005
The bolts should be spray painted BEFORE installation, so just be careful now that they are in place so the rock isn't painted. Thanks. Jul 14, 2005
ac
ac  
Excellent route. Sustained and pumpy, but with salvation holds when you need them. Don't let the crux intimidate you - the jug is up there waiting for you if you don't give up on the thin part. Take heed of Thor's recommendation to put longer runners on the initial bolts under the first roof. That rope drag isn't fun on the crux. I have to express my thanks to Thor and others for putting in these new routes. They are a great addition to this wall. One thing I'd recommend though is spray painting the hangers on the arete climbs - those bolts are way obvious from the road. Given all the talk about a climbing management plan for the canyon, stealth is advisable. Jul 14, 2005
Thor Kieser
5.11a
Thor Kieser  
5.11a
I forgot to mention that you will need to bring two long runners for the second and third bolts. If you do not use long runners you will have huge rope drag at the top.

Also, I have decided to downgrade the route to 5.11a. After climbing it a few times and listening to others, I feel 11a is a more accurate grade.

Thanks,

Thor Jul 9, 2005
Outstanding, one of my first routes back since knee reconstruction. Great Line Jul 2, 2005