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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V7-8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10- 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 2,675 total · 16/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


This was named for all you old Rastafarians out there.

Start on PVS (Persistent Vegetative State) and clip up to bolt 5. Instead of following PVS up the corner, climb straight up past 6 bolts to the anchor. The crux is the arete about 2/3's of the way. Before the crux, you will find plenty of sustained 5.10.


13 [now 16] QDs.

Bring 2 ropes or a 70m rope.


T. Kieser  
A little beta as people are getting spanked. The crux moves climb the face just right of the arete. Many are attempting to go straight up the arete which is really hard. Pinch a tufa-like feature with your right hand, reach up and left to a sloper, crank your feet onto an horizontal thin crack and fire for jugs with your right.

Thor Jun 14, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The placement of the bolts lead me to conclude that the face to the right had been intended "off route", so I didn't do it that way. Straight up the arete is probably hard 5.11 and involves a nasty pinch with bad feet. The foot smears are darn near impossible to see at dusk there. I dogged on it before stepping on the bolt. Wish I'd read this first, because it was a heck of a lot harder than the 11 I warmed up on when attempted this way (belly to the bolts). Aug 23, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
For chicken, average climbers out there like me, you can make it probably 10b by staying a bit right of the bolts at about bolts 7-9 and around bolts 11-12. That way, it makes for a terrific moderate line when you're sleep deprived or have to go to work shortly thereafter or just want less than an 11a. Thanks, Thor! Jun 29, 2007
We have changed the upper half of this route, and it now goes on to the upper PVS anchors. I think we have really improved it, and Mike B and I debated the line back when we installed it, and I always though this variation now installed is the better version. In the next few days, we'll pull the old bolts and anchors out. Head on up there and let us know what you think. - Thor Jul 13, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Cool, Thor! I assume this new version will need a 70m to get down? Look forward to checkin' it out. All the routes over there have cleaned up nicely from a zillion ascents. Great, long routes! Jul 14, 2010
Golden, CO
Mikeco   Golden, CO
The new version replaces the hard one move crux with 30 feet of sustained and thoughtful climbing in the shallow dihedral to the left of the original arete. This is a big improvement to the line. However, I view this more as a quality variation to the line - why not just leave the old bolts and anchor for the sake of variety?

The new version adds a star to this line I think. Jul 16, 2010
Well I'm not really into grid bolting, so we took the old variation down. I think it's much better and if you onsighted it, Not Famous Old Dude, you probably have the first red point, because we only tr'd while creating it. Jul 28, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Great bumpin' into you tonight, Thor.

The first half of the route has cleaned up a bit since the first time I was on it (but frankly, still chossy...). The new variation definitely offers some devious, contorted, and sustained sequences. Thin holds and inobvious feeties. Cool vision going through this dihedral. I would say exiting the dihedral is the crux.

And yeah, you need a 70m rope for this one. Jul 30, 2010
over here
goingUp   over here
Wow, led this one today with the beta from Mr. Mabe's book and wanted to follow the old bolt route. Could have been one hell of a whipper. Anyway, I got spit off it once and would add that RAP CLEANING THIS ROUTE IS A PAIN IN THE A@*! as the line ascends up and left. Jun 10, 2013
I really enjoyed this route. The beta is wrong on the number of QDs. This route now takes 16. Some clips are quite close, but a fall in the crux dihedral would not be comfortable. I appreciated the tight bolting.

It's tempting to go right after the crux sequence, but this will leave you with a traverse to the left to reach the next bolt. Avoid the temptation to move right to the top of this arete. Jul 31, 2013
Golden, CO
Getoutside   Golden, CO
After looking in the new guidebook, my partner and I decided to do this route after warming up on Vegetative. Honestly, I don't really try that hard too often - I just like to onsight, but holy shit, this kicked my ass. KICKED my ass. I only finished it by grabbing the dogbone at the crux. There were several things that don't favor me (a shitty climber I guess), but holy crap. After the original route has been chopped, I really can't call this an 11a. This route got into my head like a route hasn't in a looong time.I will definitely do this again and gladly leave gear just to prove to myself that I am not crazy. Oct 4, 2018
Thor Kieser
Thor Kieser  
Getoutside: I think the new grade of Free Up The Weed is 5.11c/d. Obviously the guidebook writer has never done the route and simply kept the old grade from before I altered the route. The beta on the crux is to stay leftish in the corner, sidepulling with the left hand and inching the left foot ever higher along the little ramp until you can crimp a high right hand hold. Personally, I think the line is much improved since I altered it. Oct 5, 2018
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
That’s funny, Thor, as the guidebook author I can tell you that I definitely have climbed that route many times along with every route at Little Eiger. Nice work on bolting some quality routes, btw! I try and stay out of grade debates and just take consensus grades. Oct 5, 2018
Thor Kieser
Thor Kieser  
Kevin, The original line was 5.11a. I took that line down several years ago and drilled up the corner. There is no way the corner is 11a. I don't know where you get your "consensus", but no one I have climbed the route with says it's 11a. Everyone I know says 11c/d. I never updated or edited the grade here on MP after changing the route, if that's what you are using for consensus, then it's for the old route. Cheers, Thor Oct 5, 2018
Golden, CO
Getoutside   Golden, CO
Thanks to both of you - Kevin for a great guide and Thor for some great routes. I'd buy both of you a beer if I got the chance. It is a great route - I am just not quite worthy of it yet. Oct 28, 2018

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