Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 5,514 total, 34/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Sep 1, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


224 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Welcome to the grand opening of Busch Gardens in Clear Creek Canyon Colorado. The one in Tampa Bay may be closing down but the management decided to move it to Colorado.

You will find the new Busch Gardens to be a modern park for ultimate family fun. There are plenty of good rides and interesting adventures to be had. We even have a kiddie section at the entrance to the park. The Park has a variety of natural settings that have been left untouched by the hand of man.

Start 10 feet to the right of Bush Administration. Climb 5.9 past five bolts to a small roof. Pull the roof and clip six bolts on the headwall to a two bolt anchor. If you have a 60m rope, belay on the ledge 10 feet above the ground.

Addendum: be careful, it is a rope stretcher back to the ledge with a 60m rope.

Protection

11 QDs.
Wes F
DENVER, COLORADO
  5.10
Wes F   DENVER, COLORADO
  5.10
Knot the end of your rope when lowering if belaying from the ground. With a thick 70 meter rope, we didn't quite reach the ledge. Apr 20, 2017
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.10c
Much more enjoyable and straightforward than the 10b to the left. Didn't really feel that the top was runout at all. Apr 29, 2011
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.10b
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.10b
High on my list of favorite Front Range climbs. Thanks to Thor!

A fun sequence of jugs to the roof. And, then the business begins. Beginning with the pull past the roof, I found each move to be progressively harder than the one before it with little opportunity to rest and a challenging sequence of moves waiting for the run out from the last bolt to the anchors.

And, the other posters are right. That last run out holds the potential for a fun, long ride. I enjoyed a few 15-20 footers. Aug 30, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b/c
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b/c
A good 10c if you take the roof head on. If you crank right, it's probably only 10b or maybe even 10a. Aug 26, 2009
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
  5.10
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
  5.10
Fun route, found it to be a little nicer than Bush Admin and a smidgen harder. Jul 3, 2009
raise
  5.10a/b
raise  
  5.10a/b
One of the most enjoyable .10s I've done in Clear Ck. Fun overhang with good holds. Top is a bit difficult. The runout from the last bolt to the anchors can def lead to a lengthy fall. I found it several degrees easier than the Bush Admin to the left. Jun 19, 2008
kevin fox
parker
 
kevin fox   parker
 
Great route. The top is where I find the difficulty...from the last bolt and about 3 feet from the anchors I whipped off and ended up back at the 3rd to last bolt. Great ride! Aug 18, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The best of the routes in this immediate area. Crux is thoughful moves with thin feet. Jul 12, 2006
Jerome Stiller
Golden CO
  5.10b
Jerome Stiller   Golden CO
  5.10b
Did this route this morning (called in sick to work hehehe...) Great new addition to Little Eiger. Fun, clean, and long (just how I like my women...). Easy until you get to the roof (which is not that hard) and then quite sustained for the duration. Very well bolted. Thanks Thor! Jul 28, 2005
Did this route yesterday and thought it is really good quality. Thought is was a little better and a little harder than Bush Administration. Thanks Thor for the effort of putting in the route! Jul 18, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Another fine new route on LIttle Eiger. The route starts 10 feet right of the top of the approach trail. Moderate climbing at the start, then a burly, technical roof that was the crux for me. Above the roof, sustained climbing up a steep headwall leads to the anchor. There's a bit of a runout between the last bolt and the anchor with some devious climbing; take care on this section. Jul 5, 2005
A really fun route! Kudos to those that had the vision, time, and money to add another great route to Eiger.-Dave of the Kirtlands May 19, 2005
Scott Bilyeu  
 
Very nice route! Fun roof move and another fun bulge after that. Thanks Thor for putting in the time, effort and expense. Sep 10, 2004