Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 6,092 total · 35/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Sep 1, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

258 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


Welcome to the grand opening of Busch Gardens in Clear Creek Canyon Colorado. The one in Tampa Bay may be closing down but the management decided to move it to Colorado.

You will find the new Busch Gardens to be a modern park for ultimate family fun. There are plenty of good rides and interesting adventures to be had. We even have a kiddie section at the entrance to the park. The Park has a variety of natural settings that have been left untouched by the hand of man.

Start 10 feet to the right of Bush Administration. Climb 5.9 past five bolts to a small roof. Pull the roof and clip six bolts on the headwall to a two bolt anchor. If you have a 60m rope, belay on the ledge 10 feet above the ground.

Addendum: be careful, it is a rope stretcher back to the ledge with a 60m rope.


11 QDs.


Scott Bilyeu  
Very nice route! Fun roof move and another fun bulge after that. Thanks Thor for putting in the time, effort and expense. Sep 10, 2004
A really fun route! Kudos to those that had the vision, time, and money to add another great route to Eiger.-Dave of the Kirtlands May 19, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Another fine new route on LIttle Eiger. The route starts 10 feet right of the top of the approach trail. Moderate climbing at the start, then a burly, technical roof that was the crux for me. Above the roof, sustained climbing up a steep headwall leads to the anchor. There's a bit of a runout between the last bolt and the anchor with some devious climbing; take care on this section. Jul 5, 2005
Did this route yesterday and thought it is really good quality. Thought is was a little better and a little harder than Bush Administration. Thanks Thor for the effort of putting in the route! Jul 18, 2005
Jerome Stiller
Golden CO
Jerome Stiller   Golden CO
Did this route this morning (called in sick to work hehehe...) Great new addition to Little Eiger. Fun, clean, and long (just how I like my women...). Easy until you get to the roof (which is not that hard) and then quite sustained for the duration. Very well bolted. Thanks Thor! Jul 28, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The best of the routes in this immediate area. Crux is thoughful moves with thin feet. Jul 12, 2006
Kevin Fox
Kevin Fox   parker
Great route. The top is where I find the difficulty...from the last bolt and about 3 feet from the anchors I whipped off and ended up back at the 3rd to last bolt. Great ride! Aug 18, 2007
One of the most enjoyable .10s I've done in Clear Ck. Fun overhang with good holds. Top is a bit difficult. The runout from the last bolt to the anchors can def lead to a lengthy fall. I found it several degrees easier than the Bush Admin to the left. Jun 19, 2008
Ralph Kolva
Pine, CO
Ralph Kolva   Pine, CO
Fun route, found it to be a little nicer than Bush Admin and a smidgen harder. Jul 3, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
A good 10c if you take the roof head on. If you crank right, it's probably only 10b or maybe even 10a. Aug 26, 2009
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
High on my list of favorite Front Range climbs. Thanks to Thor!

A fun sequence of jugs to the roof. And, then the business begins. Beginning with the pull past the roof, I found each move to be progressively harder than the one before it with little opportunity to rest and a challenging sequence of moves waiting for the run out from the last bolt to the anchors.

And, the other posters are right. That last run out holds the potential for a fun, long ride. I enjoyed a few 15-20 footers. Aug 30, 2009
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
Much more enjoyable and straightforward than the 10b to the left. Didn't really feel that the top was runout at all. Apr 29, 2011
Wes Farrar
Knot the end of your rope when lowering if belaying from the ground. With a thick 70 meter rope, we didn't quite reach the ledge. Apr 20, 2017
mike sheridan
mike sheridan   Golden
A 70m will easily get you down to the metal poo bag box. Jul 12, 2018
Golden, CO
Russ   Golden, CO
Very sustained after the roof, few good no hands rest if you can find them. Great route! Sep 4, 2018
Chris Ham
Chris Ham  
Loved this route and will definitely be repeating it. The crux was higher in my opinion. Getting over the "roof" or bulge was pretty simple and characteristic of CC routes. Very sustained IMO, didn't feel like the climbing was lower than 9+/10- after the bulge. Sep 18, 2018