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Routes in Little Eiger

"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Abney 74 V4-5 6B+
Animaniac, The V7 7A+
Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Closet Climber V5-6 6C+
Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Decider, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disembowler, The V6-7 7A+
Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Face (Project) V11 8A PG13
Fire in the Sky V8 7B
First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Up The Weed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Princess, The V5- 6C
Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke on the Water V7+ 7A+ PG13
Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal V10 7C+
Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 3,980 total, 31/month
Shared By: T. Kieser on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the furthest right route at Little Eiger presently. It is just right of Tsunami of Charisma.

Protection

~14 bolts.

Descent

2 ropes.

Photos

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Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Care should still be exercised re: the belay ledge. Stick clip, place gear, or be careful. At the top at the last bolt, it seems easier to go right, but there is a loose block in the corner.

Our 70m rope was just long enough. Jul 1, 2017
Jay Beans
  5.9+
Jay Beans  
  5.9+
After reading the comments, we almost didn't climb this route. It is now one of my favorites in the canyon. The route definitely has an adventurous feel to it, with nice slabs and bolts only where they need to be, but yeah, plug some gear in for the belay, and tie a damn knot in the end of your rope. Totally worth it! Jun 10, 2017
selliott825  
 
Def not worth the time we spent on it. Wandering and unintuitive; loose rocks on the ledges as well. Apr 18, 2017
T G
Colorado
  5.10-
T G   Colorado
  5.10-
Dirty, meandering, and somewhat fussy. If your leader doesn't weigh much, they may hardly reach the ground with a 70m rope. Highly recommend cleaning this while being lowered out or following on TR and not on rappel. Also highly recommend skipping this route for any number of better routes. Mar 19, 2017
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.9+
If short sections of meandering 9+ slab broken up by multiple dirty ledges is your thing, jump on this thing ASAP! Oct 9, 2015
mmk
Golden, CO
5.10a
mmk   Golden, CO
5.10a
My 70m came up short by about 5 feet when lowering. Creative teamwork made it work, but please make sure to knot the end of your rope to avoid dropping your climber! Mar 30, 2015
JFM
  5.9
JFM  
  5.9
As for the belay bolt: there's a hidden piton in the rocks at ground level to the right of the start of this route. Jul 25, 2014
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
 
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
 
Really enjoyed this climb! Has a little bit of an adventurous feel to it and lots of variety. There is some loose rock after the rains - my leader pulled off a softball-sized handhold somewhere around the 4th (?) bolt - glad to be wearing a helmet. We discussed placing gear for the belay, but that first bolt is pretty easy to get to if you are comfortable at the grade. Oct 9, 2013
Anfarwal Vr
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Anfarwal Vr   Denver, CO
  5.10a
The ground in front of this climb is now more sloped and narrow since some of the path fell away after all of the rain. We plugged in a few cams at the base as anchors (BD 0.4 or a #3 works); I would strongly suggest anchoring in with gear before belaying on this climb. I can totally see someone taking a step backward to look for their climber and then slipping down the slope. Maybe someday someone will put a bolt at the base. Sep 17, 2013
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.10a
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.10a
A really fun route, a little dirty in places but otherwise a lot of fun. I thought the bolt placement higher up added just the right amount of spice. Nov 17, 2012
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
Stich, 70 meter ropes are pretty standard nowadays. Using your logic, nothing over 80 feet would be bolted, because that's the most you can handle with a 50 meter rope. Jun 16, 2012
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Stich: Are you suggesting that developers are responsible for climbers' safety?

Or that just in this particular case an extra 5 meters of 5.9 wasn't worth the increased risk? Jul 9, 2011
Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
If you don't want to drag another rope up, you can tie one to the end of the first one and have the leader haul it up.

But really guys, putting anchors over 30 meters (in this case over 35 meters) is NOT worth the potential for someone getting lowered off the end of the rope and killed. You'll feel different when it happens eventually, and it will. It happened at Cat Slab. Jul 9, 2011
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Agree about potential of both climber and belayer tumbling onto the highway. One can place cams (0.5 -0.75) in the horizontal crack before the first bolt, and tie a 15' piece of rope (or the end of your 2nd rope) to them for the belayer, and first piece for the leader if desired, then back clean to avoid rope drag. Ditto re: some loose rock that will go down to the highway.
Jun 10, 2011
Craig Watrous
Denver, CO
Craig Watrous   Denver, CO
This is a nice 5.9. The loose BOULDER that Kevin mentioned on 4/19/2010 is still there and something you should be aware of. Also, some of the ledges in the upper 2/3's of the climb have loose rock and debris on them. Belayer may want a helmet. I would also recommend a 70m rope and plenty of gear, this is a fun long climb. Aug 6, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.10a
A 70m will just barely get you to the ground.

There is definitely some shrubbery and gardening involved in climbing this thing, but it was a fun and LONG route. Jun 9, 2010
Kevin Wood
  5.9
Kevin Wood  
  5.9
Great route, Kieser. You did a great job bolting it, every bolt was well placed (not too many like that 5.8 at the Canal Zone)! To me, this route was pure fun and nowhere near 10a, IMHO. I felt the first bolt was very easy to reach, no need for a stick clip, but I guess if your worried about it bring one...no harm in that. Apr 19, 2010
Thor.K  
What do you guys think about continuing to the right with more new routes starting off the ledge and using belayer bolts? I am worried about rockfall onto the road, and it's the only thing that stops me. I still see some decent looking lines on solid looking rock...Thor Apr 1, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Bolt the planet for all I care, just offering another option.

And since you mentioned it, going sport climbing without a stick clip is like starting up the Nose without aiders. You can do it, but why would you? Dec 31, 2009
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
Ah, jeez guys, what about all the parties who show up at sport crags without stick clips? I think Randy is suggesting a solution to keep a few blokes from tumbling onto US 6. Seems pretty minimal to me. Dec 31, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Mono beat me to it. Dec 29, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Stick clip. Dec 29, 2009
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
 
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
 
I think this route should have a belayer bolt. If the leader falls before clipping the 1st bolt, it is likely you both are taking a ride down to US-6. Dec 23, 2009
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.9+
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.9+
The opening jug moved when I cranked off it. If this rips off it will likely hit your belayer, just take note. Pretty good route that will be even better once it cleans up more. Aug 29, 2009
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
One 60meter rope will not get you down. You need two ropes. Sep 7, 2008
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
5.9+
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
5.9+
Be careful of some loose rock on the upper half of this climb. Climbing in CC got me out of the habit of checking holds before weighting them and took an unexpected little fall on this one, approx 10 pound block came loose. Fortunately my belayer heard me yell rock and got out of the way in time, otherwise it would have been much worse. Sep 13, 2007
Deathkills
North Denver CO
Deathkills   North Denver CO
I would support Kevin's suggestion...I just went there for the first time last week and had a blast...love the long routes....
Thanks for doing all the hard work. Aug 24, 2007
kevin fox
parker
 
kevin fox   parker
 
Hey T,
What was stolen? I really enjoy your routes...maybe we can get a collection together to replace the shit that was stolen. Aug 12, 2007
T. Kieser  
 
Furthest right route on The Eiger. This route is just OK and might improve as it cleans up from traffic. It is a full 35 meters. Once again gear was stolen off the route during cleaning. I can't believe that climbers would steal from the guy who is spending all the money to give them access to new routes! Whoever you are you SUCK! Jun 30, 2007