PRINT: Rock Climbing in Little Eiger, Golden

Little Eiger

Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Description

This rock does look surprisingly like its European big brother although far more modest in size. Most of the routes on this rock are 1-pitch sport climbs, but the rock also boasts one of the longer sport routes in the canyon, Too (5.12a), at 4 pitches. There are some traditionally-protected climbs here with potential for plenty of traditional, exploring-type climbing above the sport routes...beware of rockfall. The sport climbs on this rock are well-protected and fun. During the summer months, it's a nice but popular place to climb as it keeps the shade longer than many rocks in the area and the approach is minimal. Some of the routes on the right side of the cliff have tags on the 1st bolt with names and ratings.

L->R:

A. La Petite Odyssèe, 9 C2 PG-13, 7p, 700', gear.

B. Black Hole, 11, 1p, 30', gear.

C. Black Haul, 10, 1p, 25', gear. Alcove.

D. Delusions of Grandeur, 12, 1p, 25', bolts.

arete

E1. The DeCappitator, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.

E2. Bonehead, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

F. Conehead, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

G. Unknown, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

H1. Headline, 10a, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Crack.

H2. Trouthead, 10 or 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

I. Eiger Sanction, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

J. Eiffel Tower, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

K. Herbal Essence, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.

L. First Impressions, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

M. Unknown, 9, 1p, 80', TR.

N. Footloose, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts.

O. Unknown, 10, 1p, 80', TR.

P. Eiger Direct, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.

Q. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11, 1p, 65', bolts.

Some of the following routes are best done with 2 ropes or a 70m rope:

R. Too!, 12-, 4p, 135m, bolts & gear.

S. The Nordwand, 11, 2p, 80', bolts.

T. Natural Selection, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.

U. Tierra del Fuego, 11 or 12-, 1p, 100', bolts. Above Tierra Del Fuego (extension), 12-, 105', bolts.

V. Bush Administration, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.

Top of approach trail.

W. Busch Gardens, 10, 1p, 120', bolts..

X. The Naked Hedge, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

Y. The Green Zone, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.

Z1. Persistent Vegetative State, 10, 1p, 115', bolts.

Z2. Free Up the Weed, 10 or 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.

AA. The Decider, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.

BB. Misunderestimate, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.

CC. Tsunami of Charisma, 11-, 1p, 115', bolts.

DD. "Is Our Children Learning?", 10-, 1p, 115', bolts.

Getting There

This is 3.3 miles past the west side of tunnel one (which is ~4.5 miles from CO 93 & US 6). You pass over a bridge, and it's directly on your south/left side. Park on a small pullout on the north/right side, or use a larger dirt pullout downstream/before the bridge.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 1 ● La Petite Odyssèe Trad, Aid 7 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 7 ● Black Hole Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 18 ● Black Haul Trad, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 12 ● Delusions of Grandeur Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 17 ● The DeCappitator Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 226 ● Bonehead Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 313 ● Conehead Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 452 ● Headline Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 109 ● Trouthead Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 203 ● Eiger Sanction Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 118 ● Eiffel Tower Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 622 ● Herbal Essence Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 448 ● Footloose Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 13 ● Unknown TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 841 ● First Impressions Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 303 ● Eiger Direct Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 191 ● Radometer in the Red Zone Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 112 ● Too! Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 208 ● The Nordwand Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 90 ● Natural Selection Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 200 ● Tierra Del Fuego Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 42 ● Tierra Del Fuego (extension) Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 599 ● Bush Administration Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 497 ● Busch Gardens Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 379 ● The Naked Hedge Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 265 ● The Green Zone Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 630 ● Persistent Vegetative State Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 104 ● Free Up The Weed Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 167 ● The Decider Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 192 ● Misunderestimate Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 180 ● Tsunami Of Charisma Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 177 ● "Is Our Children Learning?" Sport

● La Petite Odyssèe

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 Trad, Aid 7 pitches

● Black Hole

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad

● Black Haul

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR

● Delusions of Grandeur

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● The DeCappitator

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport

● Bonehead

226

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

● Conehead

313

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Headline

452

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport

● Trouthead

109

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

● Eiger Sanction

203

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

● Eiffel Tower

118

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

● Herbal Essence

622

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

● Footloose

448

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

● Unknown

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR

● First Impressions

841

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport

● Eiger Direct

303

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport

● Radometer in the Red Zone

191

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Too!

112

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 4 pitches

● The Nordwand

208

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches

● Natural Selection

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Tierra Del Fuego

200

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Tierra Del Fuego (extension)

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Bush Administration

599

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

● Busch Gardens

497

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● The Naked Hedge

379

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● The Green Zone

265

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

● Persistent Vegetative State

630

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport

● Free Up The Weed

104

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● The Decider

167

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● Misunderestimate

192

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

● Tsunami Of Charisma

180

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● "Is Our Children Learning?"

177

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Found this BAMF near the base.

Some of the newer routes on Little Eiger. Bush Administration starts at the top of the approach trail. A 70m rope is useful for some of these routes.

A topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "Headwall" area.
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<br>
After one of my kids took a huge fall on Bonehead and another guy at the crag told me he broke his ankle on it, I rebolted my old routes to make them more fun for family and friends.

A topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "Headwall" area. After one of my kids took a huge fall on Bonehead and another guy at the crag told me he broke his ankle on it, I rebolted my old…

Luke Childers making the on-sight of "Smoke On The Water." Clear Creek Canyon, Co.

Photo beta for "The Eiger Boulders" in Clear Creek Canyon.

1. Natural Selection, 11a/b.<br>
2. The Nordwand, 11b/c.<br>
3. Too!, 12a.<br>
4. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11b/c.<br>
5. Eiger Direct, 11d.<br>
6. First Impressions, 9+.<br>
7. Footloose, 10a.

1. Natural Selection, 11a/b. 2. The Nordwand, 11b/c. 3. Too!, 12a. 4. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11b/c. 5. Eiger Direct, 11d. 6. First Impressions, 9+. 7. Footloose, 10a.

A bathtub-sized boulder that came dislodged from the base of Conehead on 04/22/2024.

The main Little Eiger area from the Red Slab area.

Henry, just before the rain.<br>
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Co. Golden Clear Creek.

Henry, just before the rain. Co. Golden Clear Creek.

Steep slabs at Little Eiger.

Little Eiger.

Bouldering below the Eiger...<br>
1- Truly Scrumtious aka the animal<br>
2- Smoke on the Water<br>
3- Fire in the Sky<br>
4- The Ice Princess

Bouldering below the Eiger... 1- Truly Scrumtious aka the animal 2- Smoke on the Water 3- Fire in the Sky 4- The Ice Princess

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO

See the discussion under Headline for the new bolting activity, though that made me more confused. I did the leftmost line, just W of the arete. Was it Bonehead? It seemed like 10b or c at the top, but there were more than just 5 bolts. Maybe Bonehead is just to the right of this line. Or, maybe the bolts were added afterwards, like on Eiger Sanction. There are 3 separate anchors within a few feet of each other at the top...this seemed a bit excessive. Can someone with knowledge straighten this situation out and add the new routes to the database? Jun 18, 2003

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO

More road noise than at other crags in the Canyon, mostly from gravel trucks. Not so bad at the base of the climbs, but really distracting once gets a few feet off the ground. Jun 18, 2003

Halsted Morris

Talking recently with an old climbing friend, we where talking about how people have been claiming "1st ascents/new routes" which where actually climbed back in the late 70s etc.... Dale worked with Layton Kor once, and they once where driving through Clear Creek Canyon (CCC). Kor mentioned that he had done 5 or 6 routes on the Little Eiger to Dale, as they drove by it. There are a lot of climbs that where done and named in CCC back in the 70s & 80s. I remember back then that CLIMBING magazine listed a lot of the routes folks reported. Jun 20, 2003

Anonymous Coward

Choose Headline for a photo of a topo of the new stuff. Thanks AC! Aug 17, 2003

Jay Hippel
Denver, CO

The route between [Headline] (10a) and [Eiger Sanction] (10d) feels hard ten - 10c or 10d. When I climbed it, the guy that put it up was there too and wanted some rate opinions. I think hard ten for some thin moves in the middle. Nice climb. Jun 17, 2004

T. Kieser

Vandalism on The Little Eiger.

On May 14th I placed a fix line on a new route to the right of The Decider. I have been putting up new lines on The Eiger for three years. Yesterday May 18th I went up to clean and discovered that someone had cut about twenty five feet off the bottom of my static rope!

I don't really understand why someone would do this? There are certainly no ethical issues with these new routes. The Eiger is not a wilderness or trad area and everyone who would go to The Eiger is there for sport climbing by the side of a road jammed with casino buses, gravel trucks and Harleys. So what is the problem?

Anyway if you have an issue I prefer you let me know here than vandalize my gear. Whoever did this must be a complete As*hole. I have put in a lot of time and money on this crag for all to enjoy. I have had mostly very positive response and this act makes me wonder why I bother.

Thor Kieser May 20, 2006

chris deulen
Denver-ish, CO

"C" is a 5.12b called "Delusions of Grandeur." Nov 17, 2007

Ken Trout
Golden, CO

I'm trying to get the caption deleted from my topo but have so far failed. Old password and account!

Just had my most recent rope fixed rope theft this December, up at Table from Roseanne's. Two from the Little Eiger is my tally so far. Dec 14, 2007

Rob D

Please note that multiple vehicles have been broken into near Little Eiger in Clear Creek Canyon since December 2007. Two early in the morning and two late at night. All vehicles belonged to ice climbers. The criminals appear to be going solely after cash, credit cards, etc as they left all other valuables (phone, ipod, etc) in the vehicle. The criminals then made there way to Blackhawk where they used the stolen credit cards, etc.

Does anyone have similar reports? Does anyone have any additional information that might help with the investigation?

If so, please post AND contact Luke Ligrani with the Blackhawk Police at 303-582-0503. Reference Case No. 08-0608

Let's put an end to this and find these bastards!

You can view pictures of the guy using a stolen credit card at the following website helpcatchthisguy.com Feb 18, 2008

PHotY

Little Eiger is more like 4.5 miles from the US 6 and CO 93 intersection. Park on the right side of the road immediately after the first bridge that crosses over the creek. Head up the climber's trail on the left of the road. Oct 10, 2011

MountainMonkey

I left a Timex Ironman watch at Little Eiger yesterday. If found, please PM me. Many thanks.

David Jul 3, 2012

MilkyTech
Golden, CO

Climbing shoes found near Bush Administration on Saturday, 9-15-12.
Contact Randy: 72O-285-715one. Sep 16, 2012

Dean Cool
Boulder, CO

I was at Little Eiger yesterday, and I must say I was quite disappointed with the way some people have been treating this crag. On the far right side about 2-3 feet off the trail, I encountered some items on the trail left behind that I don't care to mention. When you have to go, go, but at least do it far from the cliff, off the trail and dig a cat hole or carry a bag, because there isn't enough space for everyone to dig a hole anyways. I was shocked to see how much trash was left behind. Please do your part to keep Clear Creek Canyon clean and any other areas you climb and practice Leave No Trace Ethics. This is not to discourage. Jul 24, 2013

Mike Morin
Glen, NH

I fear we will start to see more and more of this kind of behavior at climbing sites situated along the outskirts of the Denver Metro area. For many of us, basic outdoor ethics are just the norm, but for a large and growing population, what many of us would consider the basics are simply a foreign concept. Hopefully we can get creative and figure out ways to reach the growing number of folks that haven't been exposed to these ethics before these issues become more prevalent.

P.S. That's disgusting. Jul 24, 2013

Dean Cool
Boulder, CO

Mike, there is a registry at this cliff. Do you know who runs this? I wonder if they would allow some educational info to live in there to help prevent this. Jul 24, 2013

Mike Morin
Glen, NH

Hey Dean, the registration boxes are a project I'm spearheading. Including information like you're talking about is something I'd considered but just haven't had the time to pull together. Do you have some thoughts or examples? Shoot me a PM. Jul 24, 2013

LuisC
Boulder

I found a Mammut helmet at this crag today. E-mail me if it's yours at lmcu20 at yahoo dot com. Aug 10, 2013

cptodd

Lost a pair of ladies climbing shoes, Evolv women's Elektra (purple), size 6, I think, on Saturday, June 15. They were probably around Persistent Vegetative State, attached to a red biner with a pair of fingernail clippers attached. If you've found them, please PM me or call 3174597844. Thanks so much in advance!

chelsea Jun 16, 2014

KWaless

Sad day. I think I left my helmet at Little Eiger over Labor Day weekend. I sure hope someone can be my hero and tell me they've found it.
It's the gray Black Diamond Half Dome. It may have some blue nail polish on it, but it's quite possible that has rubbed of.
Please let me know if you found it, and I would love to come get it from you!
Thank you. Sep 8, 2014

rparker

Hi all,
I left my guidebook at Little Eiger Tuesday morning, likely near Bonehead/Conehead. It's the new-ish Fixed Pin book by Capps/Lloyd. Let me know if you chanced upon it? Much appreciated. Jul 23, 2015

Derek Branstrom
Denver, CO

Found a Mabe guidebook at the base of Little Eiger yesterday (5/8/17). Call or text me at 720-982-5478 if you think it's yours. May 9, 2017

Jim Royce
morrison, co

Had a lead fall on Busch Gardens and broke my ankle. We had to rush out and leave all the draws. If you picked them up please contact me at climberjim@msn.com. They are camp Nano draws. 303-905-0833 Thanks. Jun 29, 2017

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO

Found a pack at the parking area. Describe it, and it is yours. Jun 30, 2017

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO

As per the 2013 comment re human waste, there is now a wagbag box at the Little Eiger, sponsored by Foothills Climbing Community and JeffCo Open Space. Donations accepted to help continue this program. Please help keep CCC clean! Jul 1, 2017

Bill Kinter
Boulder, CO

Found a pair of Evolvs around the base of Green Zone yesterday, Thursday 9/21. Found it around 5pm after a group left. Sep 22, 2017

Kevin Karn
Golden, CO

Did anyone happen to find a CCC guidebook near the base of Bush Administration or Persistent Vegetative State? I believe I may have left mine behind the evening of May 16, 2018. I think it has "KARN" written in sharpie along the edge of the pages. Thanks in advance! May 18, 2018

Emil Brehm

I think I left a pair of sportiva Genius shoes at the crag yesterday 5/24/18, around First Impressions. Please message me if you have them. May 25, 2018

Dakota Whittaker
Groton, CT

I think I left a pair of Scarpa Instincts up there probably near Eiger Direct yesterday. If you found them, could you either message me or send me a text? 206-552-3918. Jun 2, 2018

Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO

All the comments here seem to be lost and found, so here's some beta on the crag: the routes here are long which is awesome, but a lot of the rock is a really slippery pink granite, which I find much harder to smear and balance than the more black, sandy granite at other crags in the canyon. Because of the insanely short approach, Little Eiger can be quite crowded, but many groups seem to stick to the 9s. In June, the sun hits the crag from sunrise until about noon. As with everywhere in the canyon, if you start early you can have the whole place to yourself. Jun 7, 2019

two chains
Fucken Zion

This place is becoming a G.A.P.E.R Paradise (guaranteed accident-prone every route). I watched a first time lead climber backclip 3 or more draws off the deck and more up high. Rope between his legs the whole time as well. The young man also tried to climb Green Zone 5.11a with 6 draws (you need 16-18).

He would back clean all but the bolt he was lowering on and still backclip draws. This person made everyone one nervous at the crag and put everyone at risk (I eventually couldn't stand to watch, so I spoke up!!!). A falling body would kill another person at a busy crag. Please, please, please, if you see someone belaying or lead climbing dangerously, SPEAK UP!!!! Let them know they are doing it wrong. Don't let these New Rope Army Gangs ruin your day with a fatal rescue. Speak up! Say something! Save a life! Jun 18, 2020

slim	[Hide Comment] Becoming? You must be new around here.... Jun 18, 2020

T D
Splatte

Slim, you must not have been in Colorado for the past few years, the problem has gotten significantly worse and I've personally seen an increase in stupidity as well as accidents. Don't be a dick. Jun 22, 2020

slim	[Hide Comment] When I was climbing in Clear Creek in the early '90s, I am pretty sure there were folks that said the same thing about my group as well, but I don't disagree that it seems to get sketchier every year. Jun 22, 2020

Dave Stainback
Arvada

I think the "GAPER sketchiness" and added crowds are somewhat due to the installation of lobster claws at the top of every climb many moons ago. Large parties seem to string up toprope belays off of these anchor points and command the surrounding routes for hours at a time. I won't deny it, the lobster claws are nice as it makes after-work climbing sessions more convenient and expedient; but now that folks don't have to rappel down to clean the routes, it seems to draw a larger and less experienced crowd that seem to treat it more like an outdoor gym. Sep 16, 2020

Peter Thomas
Denver, CO

Over the last 2 months, BCC replaced 191 bolts at Little Eiger, completely rebolting most routes from Naked Hedge left. If you appreciate the new bolts, please support this program: secure.givelively.org/donat…. May 18, 2023

Jay Eggleston
Denver

Little Eiger is not closed for birds. Jul 11, 2023

DPug

The base of the route Conehead gave way last night when I was about to start up. A bathtub-sized block came loose from the base and slid down toward my belayer. Luckily she was able to step back and avoid the slide, and luckily the slide stopped when it did and didn't continue towards her. The block is currently sitting on the remnants of my rope that I had to cut loose. Apr 23, 2024