Elevation: 7,250 ft
GPS: 39.739, -105.415 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 94,262 total · 395/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

The Primo Wall is one of three formations at the top of Clear Creek Canyon including the Crystal Tower and the Nomad's Cave, and has a collection of the best and most difficult lines in Clear Creek. The Primo Wall, unlike it neighbor the Nomad's Cave, uses entirely natural holds (no drilled pockets) and boasts climbs ranging from 5.8 to 5.14. All of the routes on this overhung formation are excellent and and on solid stone. In general the routes are well bolted, although a couple of routes have some slight runouts. This crag is north facing and in the shade, so it makes a fantastic summer crag when the temperature is too hot for many other areas. Of course that means winter climbing here is quite brutal. There are plenty of routes in the 5.12 range to chose from, and a number of hard testpieces for those working on 5.13 and 5.14.

Getting There

Primo Wall is near the top of Clear Creek. Park in a large pullout at 11.3 miles on the north side. This is just past tunnel 6. Often there is a tyrolean traverse in place from this pullout or downstream 100 feet, and if in place this makes the approach easy. Just cross the stream and find the trail to the cliff. If there is no tyrolean, then you should drive another 0.5 miles up the canyon to where the creek crosses under the road. Park in a pullout here (south side) and find the rough trail that heads back downstream on the north side. This trail is good most of the way, but one will encounter some exposed scrambling above cliffs and the creek. Take caution. This trail leads you past the Nomad's Cave on the way to the Primo Wall. One note: There has been a few instances of vandalism to cars at this pullout, so make sure to lock up, remove valuables, and keep your eye out for any strange activity.

L->R:

Up and left of the main area:

A. Battle With a Bush, 9, 1p, 40', gear.
B? Doomsday Birthday, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
C? Inner Gorilla, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
DC. Portraits of Gorillas, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Portrait in Flesh, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Mildage, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.

Main area:

F. Halle-Bop, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
G. Mirthmobile, 10-, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Killer Pillar, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
I. Public Solitude, 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
JI. Public Play, 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
J. Squeeze Play, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
var KJ. Squeezing My Will to Live, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts, linkup.
var KJ. Sucking My Will to Squeeze, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
K. Sucking My Will To Live, 12+, 1p, bolts.
L. Shine, 14-, 1p, bolts.
M. Primeval, 13+, 1p, bolts.
ML. Primetime To Shine 14, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
MLK. Grim Aura, 13+, 1p, bolts, linkup.
N. Eternal Recurrence, 14-, 1p, bolts.
O. City Slickers, 12-, 1p, bolts.
PO. Suburban Cowgirls, 11+ R, 1p, 60', bolts.
...above PO. Problem Child, 13+?, 1p, project, bolts.
Q. Flying Cowboys, 12+, 1p, bolts.
R. Crying Flyboys, 12+, 1p, 35', bolts.
S. Breakfast Club, 12-, 1p, bolts.
TS. Groan Up, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
U. River Run, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
V. Moving Out, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
W. Relative To Standing, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
X1. Suspended Sentence, 12, 1p, bolts.
X2. Hangman, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Tater Tot, 13, 1p, 25', bolts.
Z. Hooves!, 9+, 1p, 50', gear.

38 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Primo Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Primo Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 169
Mirthmobile
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 124
Killer Pillar
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 161
City Slickers
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 46
Moving Out
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 133
Sucking My Will to Live
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 39
Flying Cowboys
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 41
Squeezing My Will to Live
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 21
Crying Flyboys
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Flying Child
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 44
Squeeze Play
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 9
Portraits of Gorillas
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 50
Public Solitude
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 9
Public Play
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 18
Primeval
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 12
Portrait in Flesh
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mirthmobile
 169
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Killer Pillar
 124
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
City Slickers
 161
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Moving Out
 46
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sucking My Will to Live
 133
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flying Cowboys
 39
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Squeezing My Will to Live
 41
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Crying Flyboys
 21
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Flying Child
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Squeeze Play
 44
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Portraits of Gorillas
 9
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Public Solitude
 50
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
Public Play
 9
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Primeval
 18
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Portrait in Flesh
 12
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Primo Wall »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos