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Primo Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Primo Wall
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Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Mildage S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Elevation: | 7,143 ft |
| GPS: |
39.73929, -105.41527 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 130,095 total · 477/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: Primo is actually on private land.
Update: per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Update: per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
The Primo Wall is one of three formations at the top of Clear Creek Canyon including the Crystal Tower and the Nomad's Cave, and has a collection of the best and most difficult lines in Clear Creek. The Primo Wall, unlike it neighbor the Nomad's Cave, uses entirely natural holds (no drilled pockets) and boasts climbs ranging from 5.8 to 5.14. All of the routes on this overhung formation are excellent and and on solid stone. In general the routes are well bolted, although a couple of routes have some slight runouts. This crag is southeast-facing with patchy shade from surrounding trees, so it makes a fantastic summer crag when the temperature is too hot for many other areas. Of course, that means winter climbing here can be quite brutal. There are plenty of routes in the 5.12 range to chose from, and a number of hard testpieces for those working on 5.13 and 5.14.
Getting There
Primo Wall is near the top of Clear Creek. Park in a large pullout at 11.3 miles on the north side. This is just past tunnel 6. Often there is a tyrolean traverse in place from this pullout or downstream 100 feet, and if in place this makes the approach easy. Just cross the stream and find the trail to the cliff. If there is no tyrolean, then you should drive another 0.5 miles up the canyon to where the creek crosses under the road. Park in a pullout here (south side) and find the rough trail that heads back downstream on the north side. This trail is good most of the way, but one will encounter some exposed scrambling above cliffs and the creek. Take caution. This trail leads you past the Nomad's Cave on the way to the Primo Wall. One note: There has been a few instances of vandalism to cars at this pullout, so make sure to lock up, remove valuables, and keep your eye out for any strange activity.
L->R:
Up and left of the main area:
A. Battle With a Bush, 9, 1p, 40', gear.
B? Doomsday Birthday, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
C? Inner Gorilla, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
DC. Portraits of Gorillas, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Portrait in Flesh, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Mildage, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
Main area:
F. Halle-Bop, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
G. Mirthmobile, 10-, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Killer Pillar, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
I. Public Solitude, 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
JI. Public Play, 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
J. Squeeze Play, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
var KJ. Squeezing My Will to Live, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts, linkup.
var KJ. Sucking My Will to Squeeze, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
K. Sucking My Will To Live, 12+, 1p, bolts.
L. Shine, 14-, 1p, bolts.
M. Primeval, 13+, 1p, bolts.
ML. Primetime To Shine 14, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
MLK. Grim Aura, 13+, 1p, bolts, linkup.
N. Eternal Recurrence, 14-, 1p, bolts.
O. City Slickers, 12-, 1p, bolts.
PO. Suburban Cowgirls, 11+ R, 1p, 60', bolts.
...above PO. Problem Child, 13+?, 1p, project, bolts.
Q. Flying Cowboys, 12+, 1p, bolts.
R. Crying Flyboys, 12+, 1p, 35', bolts.
S. Breakfast Club, 12-, 1p, bolts.
TS. Groan Up, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
U. River Run, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
V. Moving Out, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
W. Relative To Standing, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
X1. Suspended Sentence, 12, 1p, bolts.
X2. Hangman, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Tater Tot, 13, 1p, 25', bolts.
Z. Hooves!, 9+, 1p, 50', gear.
A. Battle With a Bush, 9, 1p, 40', gear.
B? Doomsday Birthday, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
C? Inner Gorilla, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
DC. Portraits of Gorillas, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Portrait in Flesh, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Mildage, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
Main area:
F. Halle-Bop, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
G. Mirthmobile, 10-, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Killer Pillar, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
I. Public Solitude, 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
JI. Public Play, 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
J. Squeeze Play, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
var KJ. Squeezing My Will to Live, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts, linkup.
var KJ. Sucking My Will to Squeeze, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
K. Sucking My Will To Live, 12+, 1p, bolts.
L. Shine, 14-, 1p, bolts.
M. Primeval, 13+, 1p, bolts.
ML. Primetime To Shine 14, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
MLK. Grim Aura, 13+, 1p, bolts, linkup.
N. Eternal Recurrence, 14-, 1p, bolts.
O. City Slickers, 12-, 1p, bolts.
PO. Suburban Cowgirls, 11+ R, 1p, 60', bolts.
...above PO. Problem Child, 13+?, 1p, project, bolts.
Q. Flying Cowboys, 12+, 1p, bolts.
R. Crying Flyboys, 12+, 1p, 35', bolts.
S. Breakfast Club, 12-, 1p, bolts.
TS. Groan Up, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
U. River Run, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
V. Moving Out, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
W. Relative To Standing, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
X1. Suspended Sentence, 12, 1p, bolts.
X2. Hangman, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Tater Tot, 13, 1p, 25', bolts.
Z. Hooves!, 9+, 1p, 50', gear.
Classic Climbing Routes at Primo Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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Guidebooks (15)
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