Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 39.741, -105.328 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,032 total · 239/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This superb crag has a five minute approach and ultra clean rock. However, it is somewhat of a hardman's crag as the warm up climb for the wall goes at 5.11c. The climbing season at this crag is Spring, Summer, Fall, and it is recommended that you climb in the shade (summer until 1 pm) as the holds here tend to be slopey and non-positive. If it is too hot outside, greasing off of the holds becomes a real problem. Anarchy Wall has perhaps the best selection of quality 5.12 routes in the canyon including the test piece "Anarchitect" (5.12d). There are also a couple of easy 5.8-5.9 routes down the hill (to the south) from the Anarchy Wall that offer some moderate climbing. All of the routes here are protected by bolts. There are a few routes that have some runout moves and difficult clips so one should be comfortable climbing 5.12 moves if attempting these on lead. Setting up top-ropes is rather difficult (without leading the climb) and not recommended. There are two bolt lowering anchors at the top of each route. Routes range from 5 bolts to 10 bolts in length. Routes are listed from the left side of the wall to the right side.

Getting There

Park in the pull out on the south side of the road immediately as you go through tunnel #3. Walk east and slightly uphill to this 40-70 foot overhanging wall.

L->R:

A. Hazardous Waste, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
B. Power Trip, 12-, 1p, 40', bolts.
C. Anarchy in the UK, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Anarchy Rules, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Monkey Wrench, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
EA. Anatomic, 12+, 1p linkup, bolts.
F. Matriarch, 12+, 1p, bolts.
G1F. Presto, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
G2. Maestro, 12+, 1p, bolts.
H. Anarchitect, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Anarkhia, 13+?, 1p, 65', bolts.
JF. Crackpot, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
K. Chaos, 13-, 1p, bolts.
L. Question Authority, 12-, 1p, 40', bolts.

M. Above All Authority, 12-, 1p, 20', bolts.
N. Medical Authority, 11-, 1p, gear.
O. Boulder Problem, bolt anchor.

Far down to the right:

P. Halloween, 7, 1p, 40', bolts.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Anarchy Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 90
Hazardous Waste
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 188
Power Trip
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 61
Anarchy in the UK
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 81
Anarchy Rules
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Anatomic
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 28
Presto
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Crackpot
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 44
Maestro
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 124
Anarchitect
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 15
Matriarch
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 22
Chaos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hazardous Waste
 90
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Power Trip
 188
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Anarchy in the UK
 61
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Anarchy Rules
 81
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Anatomic
 18
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Presto
 28
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Crackpot
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Maestro
 44
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Anarchitect
 124
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Matriarch
 15
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Chaos
 22
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Anarchy Wall »

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