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Oz Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Oz

L › R R › L A › Z

	A1C S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Box Jellyfish S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Chain Gang S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Don't Touch This S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dorothy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dwile Flonking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Electrocution Risk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Finding Dory S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Finding Nemo S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Flying Monkeys S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gold Coast, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Gone Walkabout S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Great Barrier Reef S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	I'm a Knucklehead S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Passage of Time S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Permit This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sea Anemone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Steve Irwin Memorial Arete S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	They're Real and They're Spectacular S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Under the Influence S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Wes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Word Salad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Your Brain on Drugs S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,070 ft	2,155 m
GPS:	39.7422, -105.40942 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	19,486 total · 202/month
Shared By:	rob bauer on Aug 11, 2018 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

This is a sunny wall with short routes ranging from 5.5-5.13. It's low on the north side of the river between The Safari and Creekside, essentially below Live Action Wall. Might be an all-day outing with [23] climbs, but hey, it beats waiting for Playin' Hooky. The first 5 routes are on Lower Oz, and all the others are on Upper Oz.

L->R:

Lower Oz

A. Finding Nemo, 5, 2p, 130', bolts.

B. Finding Dory, 5, 2p,135', bolts.

C. Dorothy, 8+, 1p, 65', bolts.

D1. Flying Monkeys, 8+, 1p, 55', bolts

D2. Electrocution Risk, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts.

Upper Oz

E? Steve Irwin Memorial Arete, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

F. Permit This, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.

G. Gone Walkabout, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

H. Wes, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

I. A1C, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.

J. Box Jellyfish, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.

K. Don't Touch This, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.

L. Sea Anemone, 8, 1p, 65', bolts.

M. Great Barrier Reef, 9, 1p, 90', bolts.

N. The Gold Coast, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.

O. Passage of Time, 8, 1p, 80', bolts.

P. Word Salad, 8, 1p, 80', bolts.

Q. They're Real and They're Spectacular, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.

R. Dwile Flonking, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.

S. I'm a Knucklehead, 10, 1p, 95', bolts.

T. . Chain Gang, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.

U. Your Brain on Drugs, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.

V. Under the Influence, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts.

Getting There

Park on the West side of Tunnel 5, cross the road at the bridge and follow the low trail upstream along the river as if proceeding to Creekside. After passing the gully/trail to Live Action Wall, the Creekside path wanders into the scrub continuing west. The trail comes to a heavily guyed telephone pole and continues onward, but you turn right following a faint trail up a shallow, scrub-filled gully with a big block on the left side. Lower Oz with 5 routes is on the right, just above the telephone pole guy wire anchors. Presumably, folks climb the first pitch of 'Nemo or 'Dory to access Upper Oz.

An alternate, direct approach to Upper Oz can be used, if you're careful and don't mind some exposure. From the start of the trail up to Live Action Wall, you can skirt left, under an overhang and angle up left on a rocky ledge all the way to the upper routes. (Edit: 3 bolts have been added to the exposed section of the traverse.)

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Oz

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 ● Flying Monkeys Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 41 ● Great Barrier Reef Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 26 ● Permit This Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 20 ● Gone Walkabout Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 5 ● I'm a Knucklehead Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● A1C Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 10 ● Steve Irwin Memorial Arete Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a 4 ● Your Brain on Drugs Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 10 ● Under the Influence Sport