Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Kevin Capps, 2016
Page Views: 2,040 total · 75/month
Shared By: Jamie gatchalian on Oct 28, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Tread lightly past one bolt to another ledge, clip the second bolt, and launch into some of Clear Creek's most fun, steep climbing around. There is a very distinct crux on this one, with sustained 11+(ish) moves taking you to the anchor.

Location

This route is on the extremely overhung piece of rock to the right of the trail before you get to Creekside 'proper' and the 'Playin' Hooky; area. Once you spot the climb (it's pretty obvious), locate the 'faint climber's trail' that winds up and to the right into a gully. Continue up the gully, and exit onto the ledge on the left. Go to the edge of the ledge, and you will see a fixed line set up that skirts along the cliff. Follow this line until you end up at the belay ledge. There is a belay anchor here, some long slings can be useful.

Rappelling from this anchor is the fastest and easiest way down. A 70m rope more than reaches, I can't speak to whether or not a 60m will get you down.

Protection

All bolts, with fixed permadraws for low-commitment projecting.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13d
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13d
My favorite route in the canyon! Oct 28, 2016
Michael Hauck
  5.13d
Michael Hauck  
  5.13d
After climbing, the king swing is mandatory!!! Oct 29, 2016
Justin Winger
Wheat Ridge
Justin Winger   Wheat Ridge
I've been looking at this line since 2006. So stoked to finally get to try it. Nov 7, 2016