Hanging Judge

One of the most fun pumpy routes I've ever done. Crux is a balancy lieback motion in a very exposed part of the route. If your fingers aren't too strong, dynoing will be your only option, but it's worth it! Cleaning this route is a major pain in the ass, and toproping offers only one shot at the route, which is good. Jul 5, 2002

[This route is really fun. Cleaning it sucks ass, but it is still worth trying. If you don't lead it take the swing. It is pretty cool. I only found one hard move on this route and it is the dyno to a good jug. Not as hard as Officer Friendly but a great route nonetheless. Take your girlfriend. She will enjoy the swing.] May 1, 2004

Has anyone done it without going into the hold for lieback? The way I did it, go straight up from 4th bolt, left to the crimp, high right foot, and high right to the middle crimp between the jugs. Then pop left into jug. It feels a little smoother and more direct. Just wondering if anyone does it that way and what you would grade it. Thanks. Aug 22, 2008

Beware of any fixed draws on this, especially the last one (just at the lip)! I replaced a couple of dogbones, as they were worn almost all the way through! They should be replaced with chains, though. Aug 12, 2009

Finally climbed this one, wow! awesome route! I can't describe how much fun i had on this one. Seems as if someone replaced the fixed draws as well, they all seemed brand new and in great condition. Thanks to whoever put in the time and money to equip this; it's greatly appreciated.

I pulled some broken rocks out from behind one of the holds, which consequently made it much bigger/better. I didn't intend to change the route, but this hold is definitely better now that you can get your fingers in there. The entire hold seems to only have so much time left before the whole things blows out as well.

Highly recommended route, even if your there for some of the stiffer climbs. A must do. Oct 21, 2009

Caution! The crux hold is broken and about to blow! It's still there, but cracked, and hanging on it will bring down a huge block! I discovered the break on 10/24 while climbing and almost killed my belayer. Sorry that I wasn't able to mark it. Don't use! This is sad news. It ruins an awesome sequence. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who can climb the route without the hold, regarding the (new) grade. It was broken when I got there, I swear; I'm a small guy. Oct 25, 2009

The hold is gone. It came off when I was climbing on Tudesday on a cold, wet morning. I didn't think anything about it, and when I just skimmed it, the hold went sailing. If it didn't break off then the wind would have blown it off soon after. My partner did the climb after and spent a little time cleaning the new hold. It turned out to be a much more solid/sharp gaston. Give it a try. Oct 29, 2009

Doesn't matter that the hold broke off, don't even need the gaston, can just throw to the jug. Great route. Thanks to whomever dedicated some really nice long draws to this route! Mar 29, 2010

That would be really cool if you replaced that biner, biscuits! Thanks for volunteering! :) Apr 9, 2010

Indeed, thanks biscuit! Maybe make it a Petzl Spirit or BD Dynatron. I'm kind of partial to those. Apr 10, 2010

Wow! What a great route! I have to say I didn't have any trouble clipping that last draw.. that clip is from a nice big jug and I didn't notice a problem with the action. Thanks to everybody that has contributed gear! Apr 11, 2010

I replaced the biner on the last draw, no more sticky gate! May 13, 2010

Super fun route! I was up there today with no guide book, just getting on routes that looked good, plus the fixed draws gave a nice invitation. We replaced the business end biner with a wire gate on the first fixed draw, which was worn half way thru leaving some rope cutting edges; yikes! Look at all the fixed tat before clipping, it just might save your ass. Also, my buddy and I left the vacinity about 30 minutes before a climber decked at High Wire, which shut down the highway for flight for life; many prayers go out to the climber, family, and friends. May 17, 2011

WARNING:

I climbed this line today and noticed a serious safety issue with the fixed quickdraws. All of the fixed draws have aluminum biners and all of the biners have warn groves in the basket. The penetration range is from 25-40%. Keep in mind that the sharp edges produced in these biners can cut your rope in half if you fall and get a hard catch. Even if you do not get a hard catch, you can still get a core shot from warn biners. It has happened in a number of different areas, most notably the RRG. Do not underestimate the danger presented by excessively warn biners. Jul 20, 2012

Thanks, Josh Pranckun! (looks like his post isn't appearing on the thread though) I've climbed those routes every time I go to that crag - will definitely bring some biners and pay some dues this coming season. Jan 15, 2013

youtube.com/watch?v=6reY4mr… Jun 15, 2013

Bad draws and aluminum carabiners have all been replaced as of today, 6/24. Jun 24, 2014

OK onsighted this route about a year back, and just looking at how many people onsight this route. Someone else has to agree with me that this is NOT a 5.11a/b/c. Maybe a hard 5.10. Oct 30, 2015

Anytime a difficult route goes down with good flow and without a huge struggle, I like to think that feels like 5.10. It all comes together so nicely. Even 5.12 or 5.13 can feel like 5.10 if you have it dialed in well. However, that does not change the grade, just the feel. Oct 30, 2015

Fun line, felt easy for the grade. Everybody goes right mid way through the route, but the line has a direct approach from a sharp, left-hand crimp. Nov 18, 2016

Steel biners on permadraws are getting a little sharp, best not to fall. Jan 4, 2018

Great route, repeated twice today & worked out some more efficient beta through the crux!

Replaced carabiner on 2nd draw with aluminum CAMP wiregate. Worn about 1/2 through with sharp edges on either side.
Also donated oval wire gate to anchor for lowering, not psyched on loose left bolt at anchor.

The CAMP 'biner should be replaced with steel if anyone has a spare, it won't last long as that is the draw with the most drag while lowering. Nov 4, 2018