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Routes in Wall of Justice

Child's Play.... for now S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b PG13
Criminal Mischief S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finger Prince S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Escape, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Judgment Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Justify S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
L.A. Law S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lawsuit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Trial S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Officer Friendly S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perjury S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Speed Trap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testify S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright, 1992
Page Views: 2,108 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Criminal Mischief is quite the challenge to those of us sport climbers who lack great jamming ability. Start up the easy ledges right of Great Escape, and jam your way up to some sloping holds, followed by more sloping /jamming holds, finally to a phenomenal hand jam at the horizontal roof. This is quite the exciting clip, hanging from the one hand jam and rare to find on a sport climb. Follow this with a crazy section of fist jamming to pull the final lip. All in all, a great route, difficult for the grade, and a jamming challenge. Two stars for some awkward moves, but highly recommended.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
+1 for the teeth reference. Jun 14, 2013
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
BTW, I found the jamming relatively not bad at all. The moves at the top were really crazy awkward and hard though. Apr 19, 2012
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
Lol, that movie was messed up. Jun 15, 2010
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
Nice climb! I rarely tape up outside of places like the Creek, but I strongly recommend taping for this climb. The rock here is like vagina dentata, it will eat you alive. Aug 12, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
This feels harder than both The Great Escap and Slammer to me... and it's not that I don't know how to handjam. Maybe a high gravity night or somethin'. May 20, 2009
Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
Huh. I went left at the top. Mar 4, 2009
D@n Morta
Boulder, CO
 
D@n Morta   Boulder, CO
 
Good route. ***Shameless Beta Follows***

From the handjam just over the lip, gaston the sloping rail, turn the handjam into a sidepull and walk your feet up to good edges on the left face and then mantle. Nov 3, 2008
Nate26  
Sweet climb. I don't remember any stemming, but I do remember using my head and shoulder to turn the lip full value for sure. Jun 8, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12a
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12a
This climb puts a smile on my face. I felt much the same way as Anon, but found AN's beta to be right on (before I read it. not that it wouldn't have helped, just saying that...aw nevermind.) The end, for some reason, feels so much more exposed that a lot of things on this wall. Maybe it's because you can see the entire canyon below your legs when stemming on the arete and the face. Pretty sick. Oct 15, 2005
Just went to the Wall of Justice for the 2nd time yesterday, and saw a retreat biner at the lip of Criminal Mischief. No surprise for me - having tried this route on my first trip. After doing the rest of this route - with a hang or two - turning the lip shut me down completely, any my partner as well.

The Great Escape, 2 letter grades harder & just to the left, felt much easier to me! Not only did the crux feel easier, the entire route felt easier than Criminal Mischief, which has many tough moves on it. The long reach on the good hand jam to clip the bolt at the lip of Criminal seems easy compared to much of the route.

I fairly easily - well, more or less - was able to on-sight all the 11's on this wall, but this 12a - oof! Couldn't even turn the lip--I aided to the anchor...

Any beta on turning the roof? Similar experiences? broken holds? 12a?!?

with crushed ego, Anon May 1, 2002

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