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Routes in Wall of Justice

Child's Play.... for now S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b PG13
Criminal Mischief S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finger Prince S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Escape, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hanging Judge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Judgment Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Justify S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
L.A. Law S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lawsuit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Trial S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Officer Friendly S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perjury S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Speed Trap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testify S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Nelson and Dana Knight, 1994
Page Views: 12,591 total · 58/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

This is the ultra classic of the Wall of Justice. A weird 12a sequence gains the good jugs for the huge roof. Then gain the lip with a tough reachy move on a small hold. Of course the crux of this one is at the end, a crazy mantle move with literally no good hand holds. I highly recommend this route.

Protection

9 bolts / permanent biners anchor.
As you pull the lip jug and get the first peek over the lip you'll see a bolt with no hanger and another chopped bolt above that. It appears as though someone moved the bolt line to the right about 3 feet, which makes the line more direct and reduces the drag a little. Jul 26, 2001
Great route. Big jug pulling and hooking with some funky lip topping move thrown in to keep you honest. When in doubt, hike the feet! Apr 28, 2002
Nice picture of Chris Cavallaro below, perfect heel hooking technique. Chris, did you get the redpoint? Jul 18, 2003
There were two quickdraws from someone projecting this route that on my last visit were gone.... I saw two guys leaving (two older foreigners--I could tell by their accents) and went to set up under the route and saw only a bail biner and at the base a big messy chalk spill that was very recent. I sent the route and took the bail biner...if the draws were indeed stolen and if the bail biner is illegit, I would be more than glad to give it back.... Let me know by posting below. Apr 19, 2004
Got on [Slammer] for the first time, [awesome], but rock (good square foot) ripped out pulling over the first roof. Does not [affect] hands much but may affect high feet/heel hook making the first crux move. [Curious,] does this change [route] at all for anybody who has climbed this before? Jul 2, 2005
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12b
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12b
Haven't been on it recently so I couldn't say, but I know that the heel hook to pull the first roof (after the one pictured below) was pretty crucial, especially keeping my leg closer to me rather than farther. Oct 14, 2005
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
 
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
 
Excellent route. I liked the limbo action to gain the roof and then the awesome mantle to get to the anchors. As they say in the guidebook, "it's the greatest jug haul in the universe." Jun 3, 2006
The crux I think is pulling the first roof with awkward hands and a tip sinker, and not the juggy mantle to the anchors that had a pretty good but slopey crimper. Nov 15, 2008
Nick W.
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12b
Nick W.   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12b
Wow, one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. Perfect jugs through the roof to a tough move past the first lip. The final mantle is insane. When I read the route description I thought that the crux described was turning the first roof by a mantle move, while the first roof is challenging, it is not the mantle described above. The final mantle comes two bolts after turning the first roof and definitely makes one fight to gain the chains. Jan 8, 2009
Deathkills
North Denver CO
 
Deathkills   North Denver CO
 
Love this route, just got on it for the first time the other day.
The onsight crux was def. pulling the second mantle, but thankfully you can clip the chains before really committing over the lip...
awesome. Apr 14, 2010
chipacles
  5.12b
chipacles  
  5.12b
Super fun route! Pulling the lip is the hard part...if you get the right beta for the upper mantle, it's really not that hard. Very well-protected, and just tons of fun! Get on it!! Jul 8, 2010
BrianWS
  5.12a/b
BrianWS  
  5.12a/b
The roof is insanely fun with some improbable foot beta (feet first!). The mantel over the first lip was by far the cruxiest move in the climb and felt much much more difficult than the Great Escape overall. Possibly a height/reach dependent crux? Aug 4, 2012
John Tex
Estes
John Tex   Estes
Anyone else end up about 5 feet right of the anchors and traverse over? Or did I mess this up? I manteled, but I think I might have done a much easier mantle a little to the right. Jul 13, 2014
drewhouser
  5.12a
drewhouser  
  5.12a
Pretty awesome stuff here, folks...climb this or die with regrets. Oct 19, 2014
Raud
  5.11d
Raud  
  5.11d
Nolan Robertson
  5.12a
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12a
Interesting route! You would think looking at the start the cruxes would not thin/holdless mantels. Apr 7, 2017
evan h
Denver, CO
  5.12b
evan h   Denver, CO
  5.12b
Fun but not classic in my book. A few too many awkward moves, especially getting established on the jug rail. Aug 11, 2017

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