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Routes in Wall of Justice

Child's Play.... for now S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b PG13
Criminal Mischief S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Finger Prince S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Escape, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Judgment Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Justify S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
L.A. Law S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lawsuit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Trial S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Officer Friendly S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perjury S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Speed Trap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testify S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: FFA: Alan Nelson, 1992-1993
Page Views: 1,890 total, 9/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on May 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is on the right side of the wall, just before the roof starts. Good holds all the way up, but shorter people may find a couple of the moves a bit reachy.

Protection

You'll need 4 quickdraws to get to the anchor (now above the lip). Although there are 2 bolts at the anchor (right at the lip at the top of the route), only one of them has a hanger and chain on it. I like to see 2 bolts at every anchor, but I still used this one anyways.

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DGraham
Dallas
 
DGraham   Dallas
 
Yeah, this route is just a b!+c# to clean because of that crack. When we were there last month, there was the remnants of a severed rope in the crack. Between the mediocre route, the funky bolt spots, and how much of a pain in the ass this thing is to clean, I would say avoid (no offense to the FAers and bolters intended, it's just the rock itself I think). Jul 29, 2014
Matt C  
Thanks for leaving a directional biner! Unfortunately someone must have mistaken it for a bail biner, as you feared, because it wasnÂ’t there yesterday. May 6, 2012
gsmith
  5.10-
gsmith  
  5.10-
The anchor has been moved above the lip since the description for this was written (so you climb up onto the ledge).

Left a biner on the top bolt to keep the rope out of the rope eating crack. Hopefully nobody takes it thinking its a bail biner - it makes getting down much nicer. Apr 1, 2012
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
Yea..that damn crack + my buddy's thin rope. I had to set up a pulley system to get that be-otch out. Apr 20, 2010
Dan Stackhouse
Lakewood, CO
  5.10a
Dan Stackhouse   Lakewood, CO
  5.10a
If you clip your rope into a carabiner on the 4th bolt as you come down, it will keep it out of the crack. Oct 1, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
5.10b
AOSR   Wherever we park!
5.10b
Good route to begin learning overhangs. As others have mentioned, be very careful of the rope eating crack. There was a piece of cut rope still jammed in it today. Jul 13, 2008
Vinny  
So, yeah that "crack" definitely will snag your [rope] HARD CORE! To the point where I had to reclimb the entire route get to the top, and unsnag it, then wrap off the climb being careful not to get the rope caught or else it will wedge itself so far in that you are unable to get it out. Oct 24, 2006
This route can be a bit of a pain to TR, or to lower off. the crack about a foot left of the 4th (last) bolt can snag your rope quite well. A very short draw here (or a biner) will keep the rope from getting snagged.

The rest of it was fun. Aug 21, 2006
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.10b
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.10b
Apologies to Mr. Nelson, but I just hate this route. I like the majority of things he's put up, but this is just rot in my opinion. Oct 14, 2005
Wendie  
I actually thought this was harder than "Lawsuit," which is rated 10b! More overhanging & reachy. Fun once you figured out how to get to all the bolts (the 3rd is a bit far out). Jun 25, 2002