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Routes in Mourning Glory

A Nice Change of Scenery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glory Hole S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mourning Glory S 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b
Pandora's Blue Sharpie S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sweet Tides S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Description

This new little area sits high up on a west-facing hill side that you get a glimpse of just as you drive out of Tunnel 5 (coming towards Golden).

The crag features the namesake testpiece massive roof route,Mourning Glory, that was freed by Daniel Woods in March of 2012. There may be potential for several new routes depending on your imagination, as there are currently only two.

The hillside below the base of the routes is steep and loose. Be careful up there.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

This crag sits at the top of the canyon, on the north side of tunnel 5. Turn left at the stop light of the Y -junction. Park on the other side of the road, 0.2 miles, at the bridge pull-off underneath the street lamp.

Walk upstream for about 5 minutes along a trail. If you get to some short bolted routes, you went too far (this is the Fiscal Cliff). Switch back up the hill on somewhat of a trail (cairned). This takes you to the base of Sweet Tides. See the photo.

The approach takes about 10-16 minutes.

L->R:

A. Sweet Tides, 11, 1p, 82', bolts.
B. Glory Hole, 13+, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Mourning Glory, 14c/d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D. Trail of Tears, 10- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.
E. Pandora's Blue Sharpie, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. A Nice Change of Scenery, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mourning Glory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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