Elevation: 7,200 ft
GPS: 39.745, -105.404 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,440 total · 70/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

This new little area sits high up on a west-facing hill side that you get a glimpse of just as you drive out of Tunnel 5 (coming towards Golden).

The crag features the namesake testpiece massive roof route,Mourning Glory, that was freed by Daniel Woods in March of 2012. There may be potential for several new routes depending on your imagination, as there are currently only two.

The hillside below the base of the routes is steep and loose. Be careful up there.

Getting There

This crag sits at the top of the canyon, on the north side of tunnel 5. Turn left at the stop light of the Y -junction. Park on the other side of the road, 0.2 miles, at the bridge pull-off underneath the street lamp.

Walk upstream for about 5 minutes along a trail. If you get to some short bolted routes, you went too far (this is the Fiscal Cliff). Switch back up the hill on somewhat of a trail (cairned). This takes you to the base of Sweet Tides. See the photo.

The approach takes about 10-16 minutes.

L->R:

A. Sweet Tides, 11, 1p, 82', bolts.
B. Glory Hole, 13+, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Mourning Glory, 14c/d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D. Trail of Tears, 10- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.
E1. The Orange Monster, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
E2. Pandora's Blue Sharpie, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. A Nice Change of Scenery, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mourning Glory Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mourning Glory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Pandora's Blue Sharpie
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
The Orange Monster
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Glory Hole
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pandora's Blue Sharpie
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Orange Monster
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Glory Hole
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mourning Glory »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
Does anyone know what the first two routes you come to are? They are a bit downhill of Sweet Tides. Also, what about the left variation of Blue Sharpie moving off at bolt 5/6? Dec 3, 2017
Mildly to very terrifying crossing those ledges to reach the right three routes. Go slowly, and be careful for loose rock. That bike path is a lonnng way down there. Scarier than most Fourteener traverses and just as loose! May 6, 2018