Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mourning Glory

A Nice Change of Scenery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glory Hole S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mourning Glory S 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b
Pandora's Blue Sharpie S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sweet Tides S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: D. Mabe, May 2009, FFA: D. Woods, March 2012
Page Views: 4,650 total, 45/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Call in the Young Guns....
Start on cool belay ledge, after scrambling a short section of white quartz. A bolt on either end of the ledge intended for a dogline.

Open with an elegant traversing sequence for the first three bolts (12-) and then cruise up a ledgy ramp to the start of the ceiling. 6 draws are hanging from this 35 foot overhang. I count about 3-4 hard cruxes, with the hardest part being a burly contorted boulder-problem getting established into the ceiling. You can expect powerful, dynamic, long moves all the way to the chains. The movement on it is awesome. The stone is incredible.

EDIT: route was freed by Daniel Woods, 3/20/12, 5.14c/d, and dubbed "Mourning Glory".

Enjoy and good luck.

Location

You can't miss it once you are up there.
Scramble 4th class for about 15 feet up a quartz-step to the belay ledge.

Protection

11 bolts and chains anchor.
Currently I have fixed draws on all but the first one.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Great news, Jim!! That is fantastic. Mar 20, 2012
Daniel Woods sent this route today in impressive fashion. 5.14c/d. Mar 20, 2012
Got on this line today and found it to be the coolest lines I've seen in years!!! Super hard moves with plenty of pump factor. Only dogged about half way up the line before the darkness of the night forced a retreat but I would not be shocked if this line turned out to be hard 5.14+!!! Crazy man?!?!!
Nevertheless, I feel that "Glory", when completed, will be a top contender as one of the most classic hard lines anywhere!!! It's so good I probably should not be saying anything about this unsent project. Yes, it's that good!! I can't wait to get back to work on me some "Glory."
Once again... stellar eye for a line Darren. Thanks for all your hard work bolting this line.. and just opening it up for all to try. That is just good charisma, man. What a great futuristic route. Defiantly going back A.S.A.P.!!!!!!!!! Oct 1, 2009
You got it Monty,
No matter what... "Glory" will be my next climbing destination..... Sep 28, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Just go do it already! Sep 27, 2009
Hey WildHorse,
It's very possible that today may be the day I try this line!! It's that or Primo Wall at this very second!! Care to join me? Sep 26, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Go get it! The route and belay stay dry in a downpour, trust me.... Sep 23, 2009
I think this is the week that I may get a chance to try this line out. It looks really good to me. I will let you know how it goes!!! Sep 22, 2009