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Routes in Bionic Crag

Blade Runner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cyborg T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Electric Sheep T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Replicants T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shaft, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ti'ed T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Elevation: 6,700 ft
GPS: 39.741, -105.35 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,080 total · 39/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Bionic Crag is situated across the creek on the South side of the canyon 1.1 miles west of the parking for Anarchy Wall and about 300 yards west of The New Economy Cliff. The crag is actually something of a fin and quite a bit larger than it appears on first glance. There are presently five routes and one variation established on the crag. Difficulty ranges from roughly 5.11- to 5.12b/c. Most routes are mixed and a small rack of cams covering the full range is required to supplement the existing bolts. Bionic Crag gets some morning sun that will be nice for one route and good afternoon sun that is good the rest. The approach is presently by wading across the creek and a trivial hike to the base. JEFFCO Open Space may allow a tyro after petition, but presently tyrolean traverses will be removed by JEFFCO personnel.

Routes shown left to right in the photo are the following:

A. Blade Runner, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
BA. Cyborg, 11, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
BC. The Shaft, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
C. Ti'ed, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
DC. Replicants, 11, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
E. Electric Sheep, 11, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.

Getting There

Bionic Crag is situated across the creek on the South side of the canyon 1.1 miles west of the parking for Anarchy Wall and about 300 yards west of The New Economy Cliff. There are several pullouts on the North side of the road and just West of The New Economy Cliff that provide parking for several cars each. Easy access is at the end of the South side guard rail.

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Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
When Bionic crag was established, we installed a tyro across the creek. This was subsequently removed by JEFCO staff. There is now no way to access this crag or the New Economy Cliff without wading the creek. However, JEFCO will consider tyros after petition and on an individual needs basis. Most are likely to be turned down on the basis of liability issues, or so JEFCO staff will claim. Nonetheless, support would be needed to vet the petition. Mar 27, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Where can I sign? :)

I have never seen a tyrol last long there. Only ones that have seem to be accepted are The Mission, Creekside, and Armory. However, the latter two are in CC county. The higher the better, as most of Jeffco's concern is the hazard for boaters. I wouldn't buy the argument for fishing hazards.

Eventually if they ever make the canyon: "Clear Creek Canyon Park", there will be even more rules, but would be interested how they think they will enforce. Maybe good forum topic!?

However, maybe not a bad thing, in that there needs to be more control/presense with the rangers to mitigate the theft problems!

Off topic, but Richard, I never got a chance to thank you for your history contribution in my guidebook! Was an honor and much appreciated, and while you know, I feel that others should too that you were the one who got the seed planted for me to do it in the first place, in 2005. Mar 28, 2008
We've gotten notice to reconvene the OS Climbing Task Force this fall to discuss CCC. As of this time, the overall guidelines for climbing has a prohibited item for tyrols under the item for Access (pgs 7-8):

Tyrolean traverses are prohibited unless approved in the site specific climbing management plan

If you do install a tyrol that is subsequently removed by the rangers, they said they will return it to you. Contact the OS office.

Yes, the other crags are in Clear Creek County, which I enjoy quite a bit (Creekside is one of the coolest experiences of the canyon). I haven't been relayed a concern other than to keep them out of the way of rafters as a safety item. Mar 28, 2008
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
We hit Bionic Crag on the 12th of April and Clear Creek was already on the rise. Without a tyrolean, spring runoff this year will make access rather bold for a month or so (read nearly impossible). We found a fairly shallow region 100 yds upstream that worked well for wading. Access to the New Economy Cliff may be a bit more difficult. It might be worth contemplating a petition for a single Tyrolean to access both crags.

Darren, your routes and the new bouldering discoveries by Matt Samet and his crew have given Front Range climbers a whole new playground!! Props to you. Apr 14, 2008
What a great looking wall!!! I will wade the waters or sign my name in blood to get access to this fine fin!! I may be a bit late entering the conversation, but is there still any possible way that I can still pitch in on this issue!?!? And if so...when and how???? Dec 18, 2009

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