Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Redo
Page Views: 11,726 total · 58/month
Shared By: Adam Holmes on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details


This is a great route and far enough away from the road to be enjoyable.

This route is downstream from the main Primo Wall cliff. Pass the main wall, and then pass a slab (with 5.9 and 12b routes) until you reach a wall that is almost perpendicular with the river. Someone wrote "Ken T'ank" in chalk at the base of the route. The upper portion of this wall has very cool wave shapes. Also look for a small bush halfway up the wall.

The route moves up through thin crimps to a toss to a sloper. The mid-section of the route is jugs leading to a great rest. Then finish up through bearhug moves as you slap 2 aretes. It has very interesting movement and is one of the better routes I've climbed at Clear Creek.

Midway up the route, there are a few bolts diverging off to the left. It looks like a variation that is much harder, and I'm not sure if it's completed.


9 or 10 bolts + anchors.


I did the first ascent of this route a few years ago. I did not bolt it, but the equipper quit climbing and said have at it. Originally called "Fission" in Rolofson's Clear Creek guide. I don't know where Ken T'ank's came from, but I don't care. A good route. Oct 22, 2002
Adam Holmes
Adam Holmes  
Jim, sounds like you did the FA. Did you name the route anything? I named it Ken T'ank based on the name that was written on chalk at the base of the route. That name may refer to the left variation. I don't know. I think in Rolofson's guide the route was called listed as "Fission (AKA: Ken Tanks)". Oct 22, 2002
I believe the route was bolted by Tim from Boulder, Hank Caylor and Ken Kenny got the FA after it was bolted, hence the name blending in the three equippers together. Nov 7, 2002
This is a really great route - probably one of the most fun that I have done at this grade in Clear Creek - the movement is superb. The chalked Ken T'ank at the bottom says 12+, that would be a little stouter than the route seemed going through the right set of bolts. The left variation? looks somewhat harder than .12d. It would be nice to know what the left line is. All in all, this one is well worth doing. May 14, 2005
Bill Ballace
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
Awsome route! Get on it. Jul 21, 2007
The name Ken T'ank came from Ken, Tim and Hank. We went up there and moved a misplaced bolt but were not responsible for bolting it. After that all 3 of us did it, 1st Ken then myself (T) and then Hank ('ank). We wrote the name Ken T'ank at the base and rated it .12 b/c someone else apparently thought it to be harder.
Anyway a couple of days later I was talking to Jim Redo only to find out he did it a day or so before us.
Always thought it was a great route. Glad to see others enjoy it as much as we did. I think it would get 3 stars (or 5 depending on your scale) for the grade at any crag. Jul 15, 2008
Jamie gatchalian
denver, co
Jamie gatchalian   denver, co
Crux is tough if you're shorter. At 5'7", it was a 3 points off dyno to the sloper. Felt low percentage. Quite stoked to send. Just out of curiosity, is there different beta other than: left hand on the 'block crimp' above the bad jug and right hand on the crimp undercling, work feet up as high as possible, then huck? Nov 2, 2008
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
BitchinÂ’ route. I think the upper crux is just as difficult as the first but in a tottaly different way. The variation to the left actually looks kind of cool. May 20, 2009
Luke Childers
Luke Childers  
Great line!! This is one of those special lines you will always revisit. Just a beautiful wall with two exciting cruxes separated by a really cool no hands rest. Best 5.12 I've done in a while. All things being said, however, I felt that a rating of 5.12b would be fitting... after all there is a no hands rest in the middle of the wall and the 1st crux didn't really feel any harder that (V3). But all grade mongering aside... this line is not to be missed!!! Sep 27, 2009
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
While climbing at the Primo area this past weekend (9/26/10), I noticed the good sidepull flake that is usually used to clip the second bolt has broken off of this climb. Any comments on a change in the difficulty of the route without this hold?? Sep 28, 2010
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I think the variation was bolted by Scott Hahn. I don't know if he sent it or not. He has an account here, so someone can PM him to find out.... Jan 13, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Agree with those who tried this version, which is really old. V10 or harder boulder problem? A bit contrived but definitely worthy. Jan 14, 2011
Julian Kinsman bolted both the left and right variations. One bolt was added after the F.A. of the right variation. Mar 1, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
That's what my notes say, too, Jim. I am pretty sure that Mark would confirm, too. Mar 2, 2011
Jimmy - Good to see you are still climbing!
I am glad to see this route is getting climbed. I bolted this shortly after Hot Rocks just up the hill. I was drawn to this rock. Apr 7, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
The left hand crimp that you usually use to clip bolt two has broken and is slightly smaller now; it doesn't change the grade but makes clipping bolt two a bit more tricky. I stick clipped after climbing up and then back down after I couldn't find a decent stance... what a great route! Aug 10, 2011
A right hand side pull below bolt #2 is about to rip off. We put a giant X on it. At first it feels solid, but as you move higher and pull out on it more it starts to make horrible noises. Most people use it as a foot moving into the crux, so be careful especially so low on the route. You can clip #2 from a low stance if you sneak left to a horn for your left hand and stem your feet up. Aug 20, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
This route is freaking awesome. Beautiful setting next to the river where you can't hear any road noise. The route is very cool with a bouldery face crux down low and some rad climbing on the refrigerator block up high. Recommend stick clipping bolt 2 on the route and doing it that way. The bolting on the bottom of the block is a little ridiculous with bolts 2 feet a part from each other. Nonetheless, this thing is worth projecting or doing it as a warm-up for the hard shit over at Primo.... Apr 4, 2013
Natalie Rose
Natalie Rose  
Just a heads up for short people: Felt pretty hard for my height - 5'2". Solid 12c. I think the refrigerator block was the hardest part for me. Burly boy climb but fun. Aug 12, 2013
What an intriguing little climb. Stiff entrance boulder problem to a mini dyno...then a no hands rest followed by a really fun compression problem. Good times, get on it. May 3, 2015
Will Wright
Mesa, AZ
Will Wright   Mesa, AZ
Found a new CCC guidebook near the base of this climb 7/22/2015. PM me if it might be yours. Has slight rain damage. Jul 23, 2015
Brett S.
Brett S.   Colorado
Is the 2nd to last bolt before the anchors for the left variation to this climb? I found it quite difficult to clip and pretty unnecessary, since it's only about two and a half feet above the bolt below it with a clean fall. On my redpoint go, I skipped it and afterwards thought maybe this is the intended way to climb the route. Just curious.... Feb 1, 2016
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
Nolan Robertson   Durango, CO
Great climb, that finishing move of the bottom crux is exactly what I look for in fun sport climbs! Apr 7, 2017
Has anyone seen a Scarpa Booster shoe at the bottom of this climb? Nov 12, 2017